Small soldering heat sink methods

[PT-2]

In making the small rigging fittings for spars on my 64 scale Bluenose there are a number of brass bands (1/64 x 1/16 inches) around the spar with combinations of ears or other items that need to be soldered in place to holes drilled into the previously bent and soldered shut round band. Some of these are within 1/8 of an inch apart from other soldered items. I can do one opposite the joining joint of a band but three or four are unlikely. I realize that a heat sink of some type is needed to isolate the area being heated/soldered from those adjacent to not melt the other soldered connections.

I have considered trying to flatten an electrical alligator clip jaw to flat, non-toothed, surfaces of contact for heat sinks. Who has experience with this type of small close soldering to offer their recommendations?
Rich (PT-2)

 

[Fish&Chip]

In electronic field, they use flat solid copper alligator clips to solder transistor and others small pieces. (See Make : electronics, from Charles Platt, 2nd edition).

 

[neptune]

G'day Rich, is there anyway you can utilize two helping hands to hold up to four pieces that need soldering onto the band, and solder all four at once,

best regards john.

 

[PT-2]

G'day Rich, is there anyway you can utilize two helping hands to hold up to four pieces that need soldering onto the band, and solder all four at once,

best regards john.

I have a small vice with three arms/alligator clips on each as well as four small brass F-Clamps. I think that to solder three or four in one setup I would need to put the brass strip closed to the circle (joint 1) onto a tapered wood dowel in the vice; then try to work the three arms of that device to three other sides. That is a challenge as movement jiggles each one out of position. If that can be done I may still need heat sinks between each of those four points so that heat from one soldering location doesn't re-melt a prior joint. These are 1/8th to 1/16th apart so proximity becomes an issue.

I like your idea for a surround though as an option to my one-on approach. Support is a major factor unlike soldering on a plastic circuit board which is stable in itself and heat transfer is the issue.

I ground out some flat lipped clips to small "fingers" about 3/32 wide for heat sinks to clip them in on each side of the solder point in question.
I really appreciate jewelers work but silver soldering may be a different procedure which I am not familiar with or set up to do. Brazing would be similar to that I think but a torch may be required.

My dock remains open for any and all suggestions from anyone who has done this before. . . especially with the MS2130 Bluenose fittings in brass or if they worked around soldered items.
Thanks for your suggestions.
Rich

 

[MM2CVS9]

In making the small rigging fittings for spars on my 64 scale Bluenose there are a number of brass bands (1/64 x 1/16 inches) around the spar with combinations of ears or other items that need to be soldered in place to holes drilled into the previously bent and soldered shut round band. Some of these are within 1/8 of an inch apart from other soldered items. I can do one opposite the joining joint of a band but three or four are unlikely. I realize that a heat sink of some type is needed to isolate the area being heated/soldered from those adjacent to not melt the other soldered connections.

I have considered trying to flatten an electrical alligator clip jaw to flat, non-toothed, surfaces of contact for heat sinks. Who has experience with this type of small close soldering to offer their recommendations?
Rich (PT-2)

The one on the top is aluminum, nice heat sink, came from MicroMark,
the other is copper, from Radio Shack. Might still be able to get them on line.
Both make nice, when you need them, tiny clamps as well.

 

[PT-2]

The one on the top is aluminum, nice heat sink, came from MicroMark,
the other is copper, from Radio Shack. Might still be able to get them on line.
Both make nice, when you need them, tiny clamps as well.View attachment 223169

Radio Shack closed years ago in out town but those copper ones should be available in the local electronics specialty store. Thanks, Rich

 

[Stevedownunder]

In making the small rigging fittings for spars on my 64 scale Bluenose there are a number of brass bands (1/64 x 1/16 inches) around the spar with combinations of ears or other items that need to be soldered in place to holes drilled into the previously bent and soldered shut round band. Some of these are within 1/8 of an inch apart from other soldered items. I can do one opposite the joining joint of a band but three or four are unlikely. I realize that a heat sink of some type is needed to isolate the area being heated/soldered from those adjacent to not melt the other soldered connections.

I have considered trying to flatten an electrical alligator clip jaw to flat, non-toothed, surfaces of contact for heat sinks. Who has experience with this type of small close soldering to offer their recommendations?
Rich (PT-2)

Hi Rich,

3 suggestions come to mind, first one being using different temperature/melting point solders. Second is similar to what Neptune said but making a simple jig and soldering all of them at once. Third and most expensive is to use resistive soldering this is an amazing way of soldering and here is a link to a You tube video.

Cheers,
Stephen.

 

[PT-2]

Hi Rich,

3 suggestions come to mind, first one being using different temperature/melting point solders. Second is similar to what Neptune said but making a simple jig and soldering all of them at once. Third and most expensive is to use resistive soldering this is an amazing way of soldering and here is a link to a You tube video.

Cheers,
Stephen.

That resistive method is amazing as you said. Rich

 

[Jimsky]

Hi Rich,

3 suggestions come to mind, first one being using different temperature/melting point solders. Second is similar to what Neptune said but making a simple jig and soldering all of them at once. Third and most expensive is to use resistive soldering this is an amazing way of soldering and here is a link to a You tube video.

Very educational video tutorial. I learn something new today, Many thanks, Stephen!

 

[Stevedownunder]

Thanks Rich and Jimsky,
It would be a lot cheaper to go for different temperature solders, Rich.
I only recently found out about resistance soldering because I am subscribed to Paul Budzik's You Tube channel, I hold Paul in high regard and find his videos well presented and informative here is a link; https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC9UUZIFvHRQPfDoCP-bTB7A

Cheers,
Stephen.

 

[PT-2]

Thanks Rich and Jimsky,
It would be a lot cheaper to go for different temperature solders, Rich.
I only recently found out about resistance soldering because I am subscribed to Paul Budzik's You Tube channel, I hold Paul in high regard and find his videos well presented and informative here is a link; https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC9UUZIFvHRQPfDoCP-bTB7A

Cheers,
Stephen.

I agree that even the lower priced units are not likely to have a cost benefit payback period for my needs when variable temp irons and solder option are available. Thanks for your leads. Rich

 

[polydoc]

In making the small rigging fittings for spars on my 64 scale Bluenose there are a number of brass bands (1/64 x 1/16 inches) around the spar with combinations of ears or other items that need to be soldered in place to holes drilled into the previously bent and soldered shut round band. Some of these are within 1/8 of an inch apart from other soldered items. I can do one opposite the joining joint of a band but three or four are unlikely. I realize that a heat sink of some type is needed to isolate the area being heated/soldered from those adjacent to not melt the other soldered connections.

I have considered trying to flatten an electrical alligator clip jaw to flat, non-toothed, surfaces of contact for heat sinks. Who has experience with this type of small close soldering to offer their recommendations?
Rich (PT-2)

If you tin the ends off the model beforehand, just a rapid touch of the iron would be enough to seal the joint.

 

[SAHaskell]

In addition to any of the heat sinks suggested, you might try wrapping the already soldered parts with a water-soaked strip of cloth.
Also, if your solder iron has adjustable temperature control, try to find the best working temperature for your parts. If your iron is not adjustable, you can use an ordinary lamp dimmer connected to an electrical receptacle. I use one of those a lot with my wood-burning irons. Attached is a drawing of the schematic for the dimmer/receptacle setup.
Happy Modelling.
Steven

 

[Tom from York]

In addition to any of the heat sinks suggested, you might try wrapping the already soldered parts with a water-soaked strip of cloth.
Also, if your solder iron has adjustable temperature control, try to find the best working temperature for your parts. If your iron is not adjustable, you can use an ordinary lamp dimmer connected to an electrical receptacle. I use one of those a lot with my wood-burning irons. Attached is a drawing of the schematic for the dimmer/receptacle setup.
Happy Modelling.
Steven

Very good advise. I'm a micro solderer for Textron and using a cold wet rag or paper towel is probably the cheapest, quickest and easiest method.

 

[danielsje]

Alternatives: will these bands stay copper coloured or will you be paining them black to represent iron bands? If you will paint them iron black then use a different material such as black construction paper...cut thin strips...wrap around spar to depth needed...glue in place. Makes for good simulation of iron bands. If they stay copper coloured you can use copper tape strips (the kind that are used for stained glass or cut into blocks for coppering the hull). Cut to length and width...wrap around the spar. The sticky side holds nicely.

 

[PT-2]

Very good advise. I'm a micro solderer for Textron and using a cold wet rag or paper towel is probably the cheapest, quickest and easiest method.

These are all appreciated suggestions. As the parts that I am soldering/connecting are so small and tight it is not possible to wrap water soaked cloth/strips around them. The dimmer suggestion could be very feasible with not that much cost or effort. Lastly, I had not tinned the parts to be joined, but after viewing the resistance method video, I realized that I should give that a try and with the suggestion above that will be what I do the next time when making the spar bands and soldered wire eyes and links to those which range from 3/8 to 3/16 inch i.d. to close the hoop as well as 0.020 in. to 1 mm rod. I had been using a past solder with a toothpick, small clipped solder wire bits on top of the hoop and the iron from beneath but still getting more surface deposition that needs cleanup. I am going to try the pre-tinned method next. Thanks again. Rich

 

[PT-2]

Alternatives: will these bands stay copper coloured or will you be paining them black to represent iron bands? If you will paint them iron black then use a different material such as black construction paper...cut thin strips...wrap around spar to depth needed...glue in place. Makes for good simulation of iron bands. If they stay copper coloured you can use copper tape strips (the kind that are used for stained glass or cut into blocks for coppering the hull). Cut to length and width...wrap around the spar. The sticky side holds nicely.

Thanks for the faux option suggestion however I guess that I like hitting my thumb with a hammer and want to have blackened brass fittings as my presentation of the metal ones aboard for which some were galvanized to that is a painted finish on those. The challenge of the build is my focus and involvement probably more than the appearance of the outcome. Rich

 

[danielsje]

The challenge of the build is my focus and involvement probably more than the appearance of the outcome.

And as it should be! Suggestions are just that...have fun and let us know how it works out!

 

[PT-2]

And as it should be! Suggestions are just that...have fun and let us know how it works out!

I'll post some photos after a few more small bands and fittings are done.

 

[MikeC]

These mini alligator clips might be useful. I bought the bundle in the first photo for around $5.00. Twenty clips per bundle. They’re pretty powerful at their tips and light weight. Useful in rigging and might be decent heat sinks. Found them at a computer shop which still builds computers. They have everything.