Sovereign of the Seas - Sergal 1:78 (with hopefully many added details)

[oldflyer]

How did you get that Finnish on the Mast?

I’m very impressed with this kit.

I been working on mine for the past few days.

Put in a solid 8 hours two days ago.

Hi Phillip,

I first look at the length of the dowel looking for some areas of grain definition; then shorten as needed adding the stain from the image below.
The foremast dowl is weak in that regard as is the mizzenmast..But main mast came out much to my liking.
I like the look of the "tree trunk" mast --- helping results look more realistic IMO

Thanks for your interest.....

Regards,

 

[Phillipsart]

Hi Phillip,

I first look at the length of the dowel looking for some areas of grain definition; then shorten as needed adding the stain from the image below.
The foremast dowl is weak in that regard as is the mizzenmast..But main mast came out much to my liking.
I like the look of the "tree trunk" mast --- helping results look more realistic IMO

Thanks for your interest.....

Regards,
View attachment 542593View attachment 542594View attachment 542595View attachment 542596

Thank you. Old flyer

Did you use a clear varnish over the top after staining. Or left it with just the stain?

I’m not to far from starting on the masts on mine.

 

[Phillipsart]

Haha - tiny indeed AND single hull planking planking TBD

She's almost completed -- ship's boat, detailing main and foremast ropes. Then should be done?. I think?? BUT its real estate location could be an issue

In the meantime - Ordered my next build still waiting for shipping. Pavel's 1/35h Viking. Plan on adding as many details as my skill set will allow.
That said, Pavel's kits are so excellent out of the box. Wanted my old brain to learn something new....I hope!

View attachment 542506View attachment 542507

Is that a fishing line your using?

 

[oldflyer]

Is that a fishing line your using?

Phillip,

Yes, black (make sure its solid black) nylon monofilament fishing line, for me, does the trick of adding a bit of “nail/cleat” looking detail to attached wood bits.

My how to;
Drill
TINY bit of CA Jell to inserted tip of fishing line
Insert let alone for a few seconds
Cut off left-over with a razor blade

Thank you. Old flyer

Did you use a clear varnish over the top after staining. Or left it with just the stain?

I’m not to far from starting on the masts on mine.

No -- varnish not my style from my own personal point of view –

My first ship build (Santa Maria) some 50 years ago was oiled with Watco Danish Oil - wood still looks the same. And under our opaque roof skylight for many years no less. I removed the plexiglass case cover for these images a while back.





Intellectually I understand why some builders add varnish for preservation purposes – I don’t care to…. Again, it’s a personal decision.

PS: In any case My loving son will probably “later” give my ships to the Goodwill – so preservation not on my list of hagiarchies.

Thank for your interest

 

[Phillipsart]

Phillip,

Yes, black (make sure its solid black) nylon monofilament fishing line, for me, does the trick of adding a bit of “nail/cleat” looking detail to attached wood bits.

My how to;
Drill
TINY bit of CA Jell to inserted tip of fishing line
Insert let alone for a few seconds
Cut off left-over with a razor blade

View attachment 542833View attachment 542834


No -- varnish not my style from my own personal point of view –

My first ship build (Santa Maria) some 50 years ago was oiled with Watco Danish Oil - wood still looks the same. And under our opaque roof skylight for many years no less. I removed the plexiglass case cover for these images a while back.


View attachment 542835View attachment 542836View attachment 542837


Intellectually I understand why some builders add varnish for preservation purposes – I don’t care to…. Again, it’s a personal decision.

PS: In any case My loving son will probably “later” give my ships to the Goodwill – so preservation not on my list of hagiarchies.

Thank for your interest

Where I live is harsh environment. High humidity and on the coast. Even during winter humidity is high here. I have to protect the timber.

I did not know you could buy black monofilament fishing lines. I’ll have to check and see if it’s available here. I’ve never seen them here.

I gather your only using the black monofilament line in the masts?

I’m having trouble sourcing black rigging here in Australia particularly the 1mm black rigging. My kit is supplied with tan lines.

I want to use Black for the main lines and tan for the running rigging. But can not get any black lines here.

I’ve got my Mantua HMS Victory on hold for this reason. Trying to get black rigging.

I might have to surrender and just use the supplied tan colour rigging in my kits for all the rigging.

 

[oldflyer]

Where I live is harsh environment. High humidity and on the coast. Even during winter humidity is high here. I have to protect the timber.

I did not know you could buy black monofilament fishing lines. I’ll have to check and see if it’s available here. I’ve never seen them here.

I gather your only using the black monofilament line in the masts?

I’m having trouble sourcing black rigging here in Australia particularly the 1mm black rigging. My kit is supplied with tan lines.

I want to use Black for the main lines and tan for the running rigging. But can not get any black lines here.

I’ve got my Mantua HMS Victory on hold for this reason. Trying to get black rigging.

I might have to surrender and just use the supplied tan colour rigging in my kits for all the rigging.

Phillip,

No, I have used the fishing line in several places where it would look appropriate - as also indicated in the image above in previous post. As well as in image just below.

Regards,



Regarding black rope lines - several great sources are available from supporting vendors listed here at Ships of Scale - one of which is Ropes of Scale.
Their ropes where used for my anchors, Look just about perfect.

 

[oldflyer]

Hi all,
As always a minor update; fore, main, and mizzen masts are done.

After ship's boat - will scratch build a framing and attach it above main deck gratings. Need to search for some "how it should look" ideas

Thanks for the likes, and for members dropping by for a look, and thanks so much for all of the guest visits - So encouraging

Regards,

 

[DARIVS ARCHITECTVS]

Since 17th century vessels usually towed their boats astern, instead of placing them on the deck. My model of SotS will have the pinnace displayed behind the ship with a painter (line) running up to the ship's stern. Where the painter will be belayed hasn't been determined yet.

 

[oldflyer]

Since 17th century vessels usually towed their boats astern, instead of placing them om the deck. My model of SotS will have the pinnace displayed behind the ship with a painter (line) running up to the ship's stern. Where the painter will be belayed hasn't been determined yet.

Kurt, I had done some looking into this topic and discovered the following; below just copied and pasted

In the context of 16th-century English naval history, a "pinnace" on the deck refers to a small, light sailing vessel carried aboard a larger warship. It would be hoisted and stored on the main deck when not in use. The use of pinnaces became standard practice in the English Royal Navy under Henry VIII and Elizabeth I

Per RMG Yes, large sailing ships like the 17th-century Royal Navy vessel Sovereign of the Seas (1637) would have carried ship's boats, including a boat on deck, which were essential for launching, landing, and communication. While historical paintings and ship models often show boats stowed on the deck, especially on the quarterdeck, this varied depending on the specific ship and its purpose, as shown in the Royal Museums Greenwich.

So, a toss-up – As this build has very much distanced itself from anything historically correct – I will add the boat as a visual extra detail. Assuming I don’t destroy the small boat in the process of putting it together

Your continued advise and suggestions have always been so learned and always appreciated. Your example will arguably be the most researched for this ship.
Kudos to you - such excellent work.

Regards,

 

[DARIVS ARCHITECTVS]

Best of luck assembling the boat with those tiny delicate parts. May you never hear that dreaded *CRUNCH* or *SNAP* sound that continues to plague some of us modelers!

 

[oldflyer]

Best of luck assembling the boat with those tiny delicate parts. May you never hear that dreaded *CRUNCH* or *SNAP* sound that continues to plague some of us modelers!

The jinks --- Of no consequence --- the outer planking will cover all of this sloppy work. Outer hull planks will be the real test TBD

 

[DARIVS ARCHITECTVS]

Did you soak the strips thoroughly in warm water before bending them? Fo these tiny boat models, you have to you every trick in the book to get the wood to bend without splintering, and that includes the hull planks.

 

[oldflyer]

Did you soak the strips thoroughly in warm water before bending them? Fo these tiny boat models, you have to you every trick in the book to get the wood to bend without splintering, and that includes the hull planks.

Kurt,

The "thoroughly" was the key - even as thin as there pairwood strips are, the first two having that larger flange made them a bit more problematic if not totally soaked. But, now progressing "ok"
I did find it easier to first glue the front part of the planks inot place - let the glue dry then later move towards the rear with glue. This allowed the large curves to first settle down.

 

[DARIVS ARCHITECTVS]

Kurt,

The "thoroughly" was the key - even as thin as there pairwood strips are, the first two having that larger flange made them a bit more problematic if not totally soaked. But, now progressing "ok"
I did find it easier to first glue the front part of the planks inot place - let the glue dry then later move towards the rear with glue. This allowed the large curves to first settle down.

View attachment 544095View attachment 544096

@oldflyer , where can I find those pliers with curved jaw surfaces that you use to bend planks? Those are nice!


Once you understand the limit of flexibility, you can bend the parts with minimal splintering. I've built a few of these tiny boats, and experience working with the tiny strips is definitely a factor. I posted a short build log on one of the cheaper, Chinese made tiny boat kits. In that kit, the wood is a bit more likely to splinter than the nicer Master Korabel kits, owing to grain size difference. Here is the LINK.

Finished $4.00 Chinese boat kit. Note the dark area on the plank at the bow from pith wood. Some of these kits may contain flaws such as excess laser burn and wood color and grain issues. If you pain the boat, they are no matter. However, the boat is buildable with care, patience, clever use of tools, especially good tweezers, and the results are quite nice, especially at this price point.

 

[oldflyer]

@oldflyer , where can I find those pliers with curved jaw surfaces that you use to bend planks? Those are nice!


Once you understand the limit of flexibility, you can bend the parts with minimal splintering. I've built a few of these tiny boats, and experience working with the tiny strips is definitely a factor. I posted a short build log on one of the cheaper, Chinese made tiny boat kits. In that kit, the wood is a bit more likely to splinter than the nicer Master Korabel kits, owing to grain size difference. Here is the LINK.

Finished $4.00 Chinese boat kit. Note the dark area on the plank at the bow from pith wood. Some of these kits may contain flaws such as excess laser burn and wood color and grain issues. If you pain the boat, they are no matter. However, the boat is buildable with care, patience, clever use of tools, especially good tweezers, and the results are quite nice, especially at this price point.
View attachment 544098

Kurt,

Got it years ago at Micro Mark - but, as you know, they are Full Retail+ and shipping is over the top $$$ -- IMO

Plank Bending Tool

Buy our Plank Bending Tool for only $29.95

micromark.com

Model Expo;

Plank Bending Pliers

Or searching - where else--- Ebay?

NIce small boat!!

 

[oldflyer]

Hi All,

So far so good. It's been a really fiddly little boat - but have managed to plank it satisfactorily. The inner bits will be much easier
then floorboards and so on. Should look close the the the last image.
I plan on not connecting the rudder, but instead leave it stored inside the boat. Won't as well do anything about a mast. Just include oars....

Thanks so much for all the guest visits that this build log has received, member likes and of course encouraging member comments - Thanks to all.

Cheers,

 

[dockattner]

Congratulations! No small job...

 

[DARIVS ARCHITECTVS]

Lookin' GOOD!

 

[GrantTyler]

Hi All,

So far so good. It's been a really fiddly little boat - but have managed to plank it satisfactorily. The inner bits will be much easier
then floorboards and so on. Should look close the the the last image.
I plan on not connecting the rudder, but instead leave it stored inside the boat. Won't as well do anything about a mast. Just include oars....

Thanks so much for all the guest visits that this build log has received, member likes and of course encouraging member comments - Thanks to all.

Cheers,

View attachment 545201View attachment 545202View attachment 545203View attachment 545204View attachment 545205

Way to go John

 

[oldflyer]

Thanks mates,

She's almost done. I may put together a separate log for how I put this one together. I did some looking into Master Korabel they are
still in business, but sadly many vendors will no longer order their products.
Some images.

PS: Watco oil was their "Natural" --- stain was Golden Oak same as for the Sovereign masts

Regards,