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LUCZORAMA SHIPWRECK SCAVENGER HUNT GIVEAWAY. 4 Weeks of Fun • 1 Legendary Prize ((OcCre’s Fram Ship)) • Global Crew Welcome!
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Bob, I don't think you are doing something wrong. Usually, members with knowledge will respond first, but... being now summertime, when members may take some vacations, we have a slow response time indeed. Here is what I found
Airbrush painting
Before I invest in airbrush equipment I'd like to know from current users about which equipment they use and why. I know price can make a difference in quality. Some equipment is more user friendly. Reading the Micro Mark and related sites they are in the business of selling so I discount their...
shipsofscale.com
Bluenose 1/64 MS2130 by TechTrek (Chris) [COMPLETED BUILD]
Hello everyone. I've been in this forum now for long enough that I feel comfortable sharing my 1st build, the Bluenose. This Model Shipways kit came with everything I needed to complete the build except for enough of the bras strips (1/64 x 1/8). The parts themselves were reasonably good...
shipsofscale.com
I use Tamiya hobby paints in a rattle can. They are designed for a fine finish and no messy washing up.
I'm a total noob when it comes to using my airbrush. I usually just paint using brushed right out of the bottle. Not much sophistication there.
Maybe because you first posted this topic in the area of "Tutorials of How to use this forum". I guess 99% of the members are not looking at this area, only when they have problems with using the forum......
When I realized it, I moved it to the general area (I sent you this info) where much more members are reading a new topic.......
Therefore the reaction time for response was much shorter......
- Joined
- Nov 2, 2020
- Messages
- 48
- Points
- 58
I did not realize my error. Thank you for moving it. Thanks to all who responded. Jimsky has given me a users guide by Badger so I can understand what I am reading.
Hi, Bob. Everyone has their own preference for painting, but I'll give you my $0.02 recognizing that others may do things differently.
First, if there are any metal pieces that are going to wind up the same color as the wood then I like to put those on before painting and then prime the whole thing. I use grey automotive primer in a rattle can for this. I use Rustoleum from the auto parts store. I once used a can of primer I got at the big box store and it left a horribly rough surface, but the Rustoleum automotive primer goes on silky smooth.
Depending on the color and size of the area I am trying to cover, I will use either crafter's acrylics for large areas or acrylic model paints (e.g.: AK interactive, ModelColor, etc.) for details. All of them can be thinned with water, although the model acrylics do work better with thinners specifically formulated for acrylic model paints.
Any inexpensive airbrush should work just fine for wooden ship modeling, although I primarily use my Iwata HP-C+ that I got for plastic modeling. I definitely recommend an air compressor over canned air, but depending on how often you plan to do any airbrushing, you may decide it's not worth the investment.
First, if there are any metal pieces that are going to wind up the same color as the wood then I like to put those on before painting and then prime the whole thing. I use grey automotive primer in a rattle can for this. I use Rustoleum from the auto parts store. I once used a can of primer I got at the big box store and it left a horribly rough surface, but the Rustoleum automotive primer goes on silky smooth.
Depending on the color and size of the area I am trying to cover, I will use either crafter's acrylics for large areas or acrylic model paints (e.g.: AK interactive, ModelColor, etc.) for details. All of them can be thinned with water, although the model acrylics do work better with thinners specifically formulated for acrylic model paints.
Any inexpensive airbrush should work just fine for wooden ship modeling, although I primarily use my Iwata HP-C+ that I got for plastic modeling. I definitely recommend an air compressor over canned air, but depending on how often you plan to do any airbrushing, you may decide it's not worth the investment.
I'll second @Namabiiru 's suggestion of rattle can primer. However I use Tamiya model primer. It's even thinner than automotive primer so more detail is retained. So little is used on a model a can lasts me a long time.
I've seen and heard mixed reviews on the inexpensive airbrushed, I think it's "luck of the draw" on how well they work. Typical low quality QC associated with inexpensive items.
I prefer Badger myself. Iwata is good. We're getting into Chevy/Dodge/Ford territory when brand names are discussed. I think all of the major manufacturers turn out good airbrushes.
An air compressor is what I use. Too many cons with canned air such as short use, varying pressure, high long-term cost. The compressor I have is several gallons that I already had in my garage and noisy. I place the compressor far from me with a long hose because of the noise with a small adjustable regulator inline as close to the airbrush as possible. I also use the small ball type dryer/filter just after the regulator. Dryer and regulator are both from Harbor Freight but I've seen the at the big box building supply stores.
If I were to but a new compressor I'd most likely get one of these Quiet Compressors in a size suitable for my needs. Even the smallest ones would support an airbrush.
I definitely recommend a compressor with a tank. Also the use of two regulators in series. Set the upstream regulator between the lowest pressure in the tank (when the motor turns on) and twice the pressure you want at your airbrush. Put the second regulator as close to the airbrush as possible and set it for the pressure the airbrush needs. This will provide a very consistent pressure for painting.
Hope this isn't too much info...
Glenn
I've seen and heard mixed reviews on the inexpensive airbrushed, I think it's "luck of the draw" on how well they work. Typical low quality QC associated with inexpensive items.
I prefer Badger myself. Iwata is good. We're getting into Chevy/Dodge/Ford territory when brand names are discussed. I think all of the major manufacturers turn out good airbrushes.
An air compressor is what I use. Too many cons with canned air such as short use, varying pressure, high long-term cost. The compressor I have is several gallons that I already had in my garage and noisy. I place the compressor far from me with a long hose because of the noise with a small adjustable regulator inline as close to the airbrush as possible. I also use the small ball type dryer/filter just after the regulator. Dryer and regulator are both from Harbor Freight but I've seen the at the big box building supply stores.
If I were to but a new compressor I'd most likely get one of these Quiet Compressors in a size suitable for my needs. Even the smallest ones would support an airbrush.
I definitely recommend a compressor with a tank. Also the use of two regulators in series. Set the upstream regulator between the lowest pressure in the tank (when the motor turns on) and twice the pressure you want at your airbrush. Put the second regulator as close to the airbrush as possible and set it for the pressure the airbrush needs. This will provide a very consistent pressure for painting.
Hope this isn't too much info...
Glenn
- Joined
- Oct 9, 2020
- Messages
- 2,078
- Points
- 488
One thing i recently learned about airbrushes is that the tip can clog very easily if you use too thick a paint, such as some acrylic paints. So, what I did is I tried to dilute the paint with water. Not a good idea, I found. The paint did no longer stick and I made a mess. Not sure if this was because I didn't dilute properly or what. I then read over some posts on this site, and found a recipe for paint thinner for airbrushes. I have yet to try this because I am in the process of moving, but here is the recipe anyways, in case you decide to use an airbrush in your endeavors. If you don't mind, pls let me know how things go on your end and if you try this method, what your results were
Recipe:
Acrylic Thinner Mixture Procedure
Distilled water 38 ml
91% isopropyl alcohol 22 ml
Flow-aid 1 ml (Liquitex)
Fluid retarder 1 ml (Golden Retarder)
25 psi on compressor
Mixing Proportions
1 part acrylic paint
1 part thinner mix
Note: some acrylic paints are designed specifically for air brushes. My problem is that I need a large amount of paint due to the fact that I am building a 50 inch long Bismarck model.
Recipe:
Acrylic Thinner Mixture Procedure
Distilled water 38 ml
91% isopropyl alcohol 22 ml
Flow-aid 1 ml (Liquitex)
Fluid retarder 1 ml (Golden Retarder)
25 psi on compressor
Mixing Proportions
1 part acrylic paint
1 part thinner mix
Note: some acrylic paints are designed specifically for air brushes. My problem is that I need a large amount of paint due to the fact that I am building a 50 inch long Bismarck model.
I use a Master Airbrush kit I purchased from Amazon since I am a complete noob with airbrushing and didn’t want to “break the bank”.
I mostly spray wood dye as I like the look better than stain or paint. It seems to work well and I learn every time I use it. Maybe someday I’ll upgrade but for now it works for me…
I mostly spray wood dye as I like the look better than stain or paint. It seems to work well and I learn every time I use it. Maybe someday I’ll upgrade but for now it works for me…
Hi Bob, in post #3 above Jim provided a link to a two page discussion on some aspects of airbrushing, people’s preferences etc. If you scroll back to the beginning of the first page of that thread there may be some useful information in the responses that follow.
I have found there is no one answer to airbrushing. The variety of paints, airbrushes, compressors, needle size, thinners and actual airbrush modelling needs varies considerably. In my case I have found Vallejo paints ideal. I only use their paints, thinners, flow improvers and airbrush cleaners. My feeling is the paint manufacturer knows what’s best for their paints so I tend to stay with their compatible products, i.e. same thinner, recommended amount and so on. A little more expensive yes, but I find I don’t run the risk of unexpected clogs, emulsification, separation of the paint and other hiccups if I keep everything compatible. I do use a drop or two of water to thin the Vallejo paints as necessary but only for hand brush painting.
To reduce dry tip I add a drop or two of flow improver to my paint cup, and stir well, avoiding bubbles. I have also found adding a drop of thinner to every 10 of Vallejo Air helps as well. I keep a saturated Q-tip handy soaked in thinner. I wipe the airbrush tip occasionally during painting or if I feel the flow is changing. The trick is to experiment, make notes and when you find a “mix” technique that works go with that. For Vallejo their range of paints are specific to different paint jobs. Model Air for airbrushing, Model Colour for hand brushing for me, but go to their site for additional information. Saying that I do use the Model Air for brush painting sometimes depending on the job in hand. I do not use thinned down Model Colour in the airbrush because it is too thick. I’m not experienced enough to mess with the consistency of the Model Colour so why not use the designed Model Air?
A good compressor is a must if you intend to get more into airbrushing. The correct pressure is important but follow the paint and/or airbrush manufacturers recommendations and adjust to your own needs as experience grows. When I started airbrushing a few years ago I had a heck of a frustrating time on my hands, paint included. As with everything it’s a learning process but once you get going it’s another aspect of our model making, which is a lot of fun.
No doubt there will be some great advice and help from SOS members. One site I found useful is copied below. Of course the good old internet and Youtube can provide a lot of helpful information too.
I hope this helps a little.
If you search YouTube for "spray paint wood ship model" you'll get a lot of hits. https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=spray+paint+wood+ship+model
I always use dedicated acrylic paint thinners & a Badger airbrush. But I've not used it on a ship model yet, since giving up model railroading. Rattle cans are more convenient, I find, as sanding sealer & matte clear coat are both available. For primer spray I use Tamiya or Simonize aerosols.
I have a Badger 200 that I've been using for about 15 yrs now. It's a single-action siphon air system using small cups or various-sized paint jars. The compressor I use is similar to Harbor Freight's Central Pneumatic, Avanti, or the Timbertech with a 3 Ltr storage tank. None of these units are very loud and all come with a water trap and some sort of airflow adjustment, I usually spray between15 to 35 PSI. The central and Avanti come with dual-action airbrushes, I suggest you put them aside and invest in a single-action medium-quality single-action airbrush such as Badger 200, Iwata, or a Paasche Air Brushes, all are on the internet under airbrushes. I've sprayed everything from Dollar Store Folk Art Acrylics To high-end Automotive Paints, and the secret to a long life is to clean when it clogs during painting and a strip-down immediately after use, Pain in the butt but should be done, lots of this kind of information on the net, right down to the particular brush you purchase. I hope that this was of some use to you. Painting, mixing, and spraying is all on the net. Look under Model Cars and Model railroading and model figure painting for tips on mixing and painting, have fun and you will find you will so much more control than a rattle can, only use one of those for the hull exterior and it is usually an auto primer-filler.
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I think a superb you tube series on painting and many other aspects of model building is Paul Budzik's scale model workshop. His explanations and advice are woonderful!
