The ships Longboat 1/48

Joined
Oct 28, 2018
Messages
170
Points
253

Location
Kansas City, Missouri
So while I was waiting to source the wood for my other build thought I would work on a smaller project. I don't think it's going right.

I broke a piece already.

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But the reason why I'm thinking this is wrong is because I'm pretty sure I built my jig incorrectly.

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For some reason I ended up with the profile as it should be after the ribs are installed, instead of before. So I'm going to have to rebuild this.

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Here is where I went wrong. I used the same sized blanks for every section, but I cut the templates at the wrong location I think.

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So the jig is technically correct yet still wrong lol20220409_164034.jpg

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So we start over again.

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Interesting project which I will follow with big interest
Is it the armed longboat based on the Delacroix drawings?
 
Interesting project which I will follow with big interest
Is it the armed longboat based on the Delacroix drawings?

It's actually the Ships Longboat


A longboat is a build I would like to do in the future. I’ll join the others and watch your progress. I see you are a fan of Byrnes Model Machines too :).

I am! I explained on my other build log for the L'Egyptatine that I'm starting that I got the table saw, disc sander, and planer. Excellent results so far.
 
Quick update. Remade the jig from the beginning. Found the issue I had was that I somehow got the profile of the Keel instead of the Keelson. Same process as before just using the correct lines from the plans.

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You can see in the background the original compared to the new version.

For some reason when I built this one I got some angling on the pieces about half way through. Fixed in sanding but odd that it happened.

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But you can see the keelson follows the new profile perfectly.

And here we are with the keelson in place, tapered to correct size and angle.

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Next I'll probably put together the keel and it's parts. I have a sheet about 3/32 or 3.2mm I think, that I could sand down to the correct width to make the floor timbers but that seems like a waste so I may just order the correct size of 1/16 or 2.6mm roughly.
 
The order for the L'Egyptatine wood is on its way, so I'm waiting for that to arrive to do the timbers here. So working on the keel first.

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Keel is in the western style, so the keel is in two pieces, instead of the three of other styles.

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All pieces in place here with a current update of where things stand.

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Doing a little bit of concurrent work. I know I could have probably made strips and finished the frames with strips but decided to just cut out all the frame pieces instead. Ended up using a 1.65mm , 2' long board. They'll be sanded down to 1.6mm after they're complete to fit right into the keel.

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I think you made the correct decision with using "real" frames and not using strips
Especially in the area of the bow and more at the stern you woul get problems with the bigger height between the keel and keelson (red marked area)
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on some small areas of the dummy-hull you should maybe sand a little bit more - It could be that here the frames will be slightly out of the line when the width dummy is changing too much /steps along the length of the hull (green arrows)
 
Ein bisschen nebenberuflich arbeiten. Ich weiß, ich hätte wahrscheinlich Streifen machen und die Rahmen mit Streifen fertigstellen können, aber ich habe mich entschieden, stattdessen einfach alle Rahmenteile auszuschneiden. Am Ende wurde ein 1,65 mm langes Brett verwendet. Sie werden nach Fertigstellung auf 1,6 mm abgeschliffen, damit sie direkt in den Kiel passen.

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Hello Gventura, you can use both variants and according to the arsenal it would be correct to bend the slats, the advantage is that you work with the grain of the wood, the disadvantage is bending the slats.
If you saw it out of a board, you have a change in the grain of the wood in the crease of the frame and, with a thickness of 1.6mm, there is a very high risk of breakage.
However, it is the simpler option.

Green: wood grain
Red: breaking point during grinding

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I think you made the correct decision with using "real" frames and not using strips
Especially in the area of the bow and more at the stern you woul get problems with the bigger height between the keel and keelson (red marked area)
View attachment 312978

on some small areas of the dummy-hull you should maybe sand a little bit more - It could be that here the frames will be slightly out of the line when the width dummy is changing too much /steps along the length of the hull (green arrows)

Haven't made these changes yet, but they'll get fixed before the next step is complete.

So far all the frame pieces are cut out, laid out on their respective frame, and cleaned up. A few pieces broke and so I'll need to remake those, but I'll need to thin another board so I'm going to do those last.

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Cut as close as possible and then Dremel sanded them down to shape.

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To be honest I'm not loving how these are turning out. They have the correct shape but I think they could be better. I'm place another order for some more sheets so I can redo.

However I'm going to continue on with this build because the point of doing this first was to get back into the groove of working.

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The keel doesn't sit right since I haven't cleaned up the jig yet. but it looks like it'll be fine

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Hi GVentura, watching with interest and I love the photographs. I might have missed it earlier in your build but can you tell me what woods you use and where do you get it?
 
Hi GVentura, watching with interest and I love the photographs. I might have missed it earlier in your build but can you tell me what woods you use and where do you get it?

Hello, welcome! I'm working with pearwood. I typically get my wood from dlumberyard.com but I have also recently found another source from modelerssawmill.com as well. Depending on the tools you have lumberyard wood typically comes rougher so you can finish as you'd like where the wood from the sawmill looks like it comes finished for you. Haven't ordered any yet.
 
Hello all! It's been almost a year since my last update, a lot of life has happened since then. But specific to this build I didn't like the way the frames were looking or how they were fitting. So I put them aside and started over.

In starting over I was giving a lot of thought about the templates. I hate the rubber glue, it changes the color of the wood and needs a lot of sanding clean up afterwards. This changes the thickness of the wood and sometimes makes things fit weird.

For those of you familiar with a Cricut machine or not familiar, I found a use for mine. I bought it many years ago on a black Friday sale but never really figured out how to apply it to the hobby. That is until I realized that it can be used to cut out vynl stickers that don't leave any sticky residue.

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So after some work to put the frames though the process of getting cut out here we are.

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By printing these and running through the computer I was able to add proper labels. Which helps significantly. I wasn't able to ready hand writing very well the first time around.

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You print the frames on a regular printer, then you run these pages through the Cricut and it cuts them out, no fuss and less waste. Here is how they look on the board.

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All the frame pieces fit on one 2ft board and all the pieces were oriented the correct way unlike my first time around.

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The first time was a mess. And the frames didn't come out well.

After some work these came out significantly better.

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My jig still isn't right, but that's a different problem to address.

For now I'm going to start putting the frames together and fairing them. The cool thing about vynl is that it's thin and easy to cut. So I can cut off pieces so that there is space to glue while leaving the rest as a guide for the next steps.

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My hope is to have a fewer interruptions and really start making progress now.
 
Hello all! It's been almost a year since my last update, a lot of life has happened since then. But specific to this build I didn't like the way the frames were looking or how they were fitting. So I put them aside and started over.

In starting over I was giving a lot of thought about the templates. I hate the rubber glue, it changes the color of the wood and needs a lot of sanding clean up afterwards. This changes the thickness of the wood and sometimes makes things fit weird.

For those of you familiar with a Cricut machine or not familiar, I found a use for mine. I bought it many years ago on a black Friday sale but never really figured out how to apply it to the hobby. That is until I realized that it can be used to cut out vynl stickers that don't leave any sticky residue.

View attachment 362348

So after some work to put the frames though the process of getting cut out here we are.

View attachment 362334

By printing these and running through the computer I was able to add proper labels. Which helps significantly. I wasn't able to ready hand writing very well the first time around.

View attachment 362339

You print the frames on a regular printer, then you run these pages through the Cricut and it cuts them out, no fuss and less waste. Here is how they look on the board.

View attachment 362340

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All the frame pieces fit on one 2ft board and all the pieces were oriented the correct way unlike my first time around.

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The first time was a mess. And the frames didn't come out well.

After some work these came out significantly better.

View attachment 362336

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My jig still isn't right, but that's a different problem to address.

For now I'm going to start putting the frames together and fairing them. The cool thing about vynl is that it's thin and easy to cut. So I can cut off pieces so that there is space to glue while leaving the rest as a guide for the next steps.

View attachment 362338

My hope is to have a fewer interruptions and really start making progress now.
Welcome back friend, very interesting method. Good luck on your way up Thumbsup :)
 
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