timber for wooden ships

[seo.exper]

https://kuruoglukerestecilik.com/urun-detay/kayin-kereste

this lumber can be used for wooden ships.

 

[Uwek]

Did you use this wood already for a ship model?
It seems to have not so fine grain ?

BTW: A warm welcome here on board of our forum

 

[Greg Chalik]

I'm not really a model ship builder.
However, as a historian I have admired the fully-rigged ships of the line.
I have large quantities of various woods on my property, but I'm in Australia which means most of the wood is gum.
The dried density of gum timber (eucalypts) varies significantly by species, but is generally higher than that of European oak.

Density Comparison

Timber Species

	Average Dried Density (at ~12% moisture content)
European Oak	~675–720 kg/m³
Blue Gum	~850 kg/m³

I have a range of softwoods for the parts that require softwoods, but of course intend to use the gum timber for framing and hull planking.

The project in mind is HMS Warspite 1807 74-gun (sister to Colossus 1803) which is significant to Australia as the first ship of the line to visit the colony on her circumnavigation cruise.

This was to test the new iron bracing Sir Robert Seppings had installed.

I will not be modelling that upgrade, but the 1807 as built version because I have plans from Colossus.

Any words of wisdom in dealing with a more dense than usual wood species in the build?

Thank you in advance.

Greg

PS. I have now identified a supply of oak I need to negotiate, but still interested in the utility of more dense woods in model building.
I now also realise the gums are not well-predisposed to humidity, so...

 

[Jim Fortnam]

I have used Oz timber here in England for furniture features.

My wise words are:

“Sharp tools”

And you may be advised to look into sharpening systems.

 

[DAWarden-(Jaager)]

he dried density of gum timber (eucalypts) varies significantly by species, but is generally higher than that of European oak.

I can only approach this as theory as I have zero experience with OZ timber species.

For me Oak or most any species of nut bearing trees are a very poor choice of timber for a scale model ship - If the wood is left natural.
Hidden or painted this Family? is as suitable as any other.
What I want is wood with tight grain, straight grain, fine texture, as little contrast with the grain as possible, no visible pores.
Dense can be good up to a point. Very dense can wear bandsaw blades -which tend to break when dull. And dull circular blades.
Carbide is probably the better option - the cost is increased loss to kerf.

I use well seasoned timber. Air drying takes a long time (1 year per inch). Checking can be a problem. I read that kiln drying can be tricky and involves fairly rigid factors that can vary with species. I think that I read that too much heat can case harden wood.

Look at the smooth flat surface. Imagine how much it looks like wood that is 50 times smaller.

If you mill your own wood - the plane of the cut in relation to growth rings can often produce dramatically different grain patterns.

 

[Greg Chalik]

I have used Oz timber here in England for furniture features.

My wise words are:

“Sharp tools”

And you may be advised to look into sharpening systems.

Yep, I know this from historical research into First Fleet carpenters trying to build a craft (lugger) and failing. They produced this https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rose_Hill_Packet

 

[Greg Chalik]

I can only approach this as theory as I have zero experience with OZ timber species.

For me Oak or most any species of nut bearing trees are a very poor choice of timber for a scale model ship - If the wood is left natural.
Hidden or painted this Family? is as suitable as any other.
What I want is wood with tight grain, straight grain, fine texture, as little contrast with the grain as possible, no visible pores.
Dense can be good up to a point. Very dense can wear bandsaw blades -which tend to break when dull. And dull circular blades.
Carbide is probably the better option - the cost is increased loss to kerf.

I use well seasoned timber. Air drying takes a long time (1 year per inch). Checking can be a problem. I read that kiln drying can be tricky and involves fairly rigid factors that can vary with species. I think that I read that too much heat can case harden wood.

Look at the smooth flat surface. Imagine how much it looks like wood that is 50 times smaller.

If you mill your own wood - the plane of the cut in relation to growth rings can often produce dramatically different grain patterns.

I'm not a model ship builder. It seems to me appropriate to build a model from oak perhaps for sentimental reasons of the "wall of oak", and you are probably correct.
It would be a waste of oak timber not to try.
I'd have to air dry it though. I do have a shed for it.