To Oil, or not to Oil? That is the question.

Jimsky

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Part 1

Oil finishes have become among the popular finishes used by ship model makers. This is probably due to the pleasing, close-to-the-wood look that oil finishes produce. But it is primarily due to how easy the oil finishes are to apply. In most cases, all you have to do is wipe on and then wipe off a couple of coats. In spite of the ease of application (or maybe because of it), there is a great deal of confusion about oil finishes. Here are some of the most commonly asked questions about oil finishes:
  • Does oil protect as well from inside the wood as other finishes do on the surface of the wood?
  • Is it better to rub the oil into the wood or apply using the brush?
  • Will more coats produce gloss?
  • Does the boiled linseed oil make by boiling raw linseed oil?
  • Does tung oil better than linseed oil or vice versa?
  • What is Danish oil or teak oil? Moreover, what is antique oil or Val-Oil?
  • What is the best way to maintain an oil finish?
In order to answer, these questions, and know what to expect from oil finishes you need to overcome three prevalent myths. They are below.

MYTH 1: Oil finishes were the favored wood finish used by our eighteenth- and nineteenth-century predecessors.
FACT: There's no evidence at all that oil was a well-regarded finish until the rapid growth of the consumer market beginning in the 1960s.

It's a myth that our ancestors thought linseed oil was a great finish. They used linseed oil, of course. It was cheap, compared to other finishes, and it was available. But there is no evidence from surviving records, such as cabinetmakers' account books, that linseed oil was well thought of as a finish. On the contrary, most of the finer, eighteenth-century, city-made furniture, and almost all nineteenth-century, factory-made furniture, was finished with shellac or varnish.
It's the myth that our predecessors expended much effort applying linseed oil when they did use it. Rubbing linseed oil into the wood does absolutely no good. There is some mention in cabinetmakers' account books of rubbing linseed oil, in combination with brick dust or pumice, to fill the pores of the wood. But you have to get into the twentieth century before you find written reference to anyone in the eighteenth century rubbing oil alone into wood. (How could the writers have known?)

MYTH 2: Oil finishes penetrate into the wood and protect the wood from the inside.
FACT: The penetrating qualities of oil finishes are of very little significance in protecting the wood.

It's a myth that linseed oil applied in any manner is a durable finish. A linseed oil finish is too thin and soft to protect well against heat, stains, or wear. And linseed oil, no matter how you apply it, or how many coats you apply, is quickly and easily penetrated by water and water vapor. Oil finishes are penetrating finishes, and they are sometimes marketed as protecting the wood from the inside. They are contrasted with film finishes, such as shellac, lacquer, varnish, and water base, which protect the wood by building a film on the surface of the wood. To assess the accuracy of the claim that penetrating finishes protect from the inside, you need to understand how penetration occurs and what value it has (or does not have) in protecting the wood. Penetration does very little to the wood. You can totally fill a piece of wood with a linseed oil finish, and it will do nothing to protect the surface of the wood from damage. Coarse objects will scratch the wood, stains will stain the wood, and water will smudge the wood almost as easily as if there were no finish in the wood at all. The only possible advantage gained by filling the wood with the finish is to stabilize the wood from shrinkage and swelling caused by the water-vapor exchange.

MYTH 3: All finishes sold as "oil" are some type of oil.
FACT: There are four significantly different types of finish that are sold as "oil." Not all are oil.

Much of the confusion about oil is generated by the marketplace, which offers four significantly different finishes, all called oil. We will talk about those finishes in the next part.
 
Part 2 - Types of Oil

There is much confusion about oils. Those are generated by marketplaces, which offered significantly different finishes as oil. Oil finishes look different: They range from glossy to flat, and from very thin on the wood to quite thick. They perform differently: Some are very effective barriers against scratches, stains, water, and water-vapor exchange, while others aren't. And they can be applied differently: Some can be left wet on the wood, others have to be wiped almost dry.
  • Straight oil, of which there are two principal kinds: Tung oil and Linseed oil. Tung oil is usually sold as "pure” or "100 percent" tung oil or "China wood oil." Linseed oil comes in two forms, raw and boiled. Oil is a natural substance that is extracted from plants, nuts, fish, and petroleum. Some oils, such as linseed oil and tung oil cure they change from a liquid to a solid by absorbing oxygen from the air. Linseed oil absorbs so much oxygen when it cures that its weight increases as much as 12 percent. Oils that cure can be used as finishes. Other oils, such as mineral oil, olive oil, and motor oil, don't absorb oxygen and therefore don't cure. Because they don't solidify, they are ineffective as finishes. Still, other oils, such as walnut oil, soybean oil, and safflower oils, are semi-curing: They cure very slowly and never very hard. They are only marginally effective as finishes.
  • Linseed oil is extracted from seeds of the flax plant. This oil, in its raw state, is an inefficient finish because it takes many days to cure. So, to make it more effective, metallic driers are added. These driers are usually salts of cobalt, manganese, or zinc. They act as catalysts to speed the curing. (Lead was once used as a drier but is no longer because it is a health hazard.) With driers added, linseed oil cures in about a day and is called "boiled" linseed oil. Unless you want an oil that cures very slowly, there's no reason to use raw linseed oil.
    Of all finishes except wax, linseed oil is the least protective. It's a soft, thin finish, so it provides no significant barrier against scratching. It's also easily penetrated by water and water vapor. Liquid water will work through a linseed oil finish and cause a smudge within 5 to 10 seconds. Water vapor will pass through a linseed oil finish almost as if it weren't there.
    You may find it interesting that old paints based on linseed oil performed well precisely because water vapor could pass through so easily. These paints allowed moisture to escape through the walls of houses without blistering the paint film. Modern alkyd-based paints blister easily because they form a much better barrier to water-vapor exchange. This is why water-based, latex paint is recommended for use on the outsides of houses. Like linseed oil-based paint, latex paint "breathes."
  • Tung oil Is extracted from nuts of the tung tree, which is native to China. Tung oil has been used for centuries in China, but it was not introduced into the West until the very end of the nineteenth century. It is now cultivated in South America. Though tung oil is more expensive than linseed oil, tung oil has established a firm position in the paint and coatings industry because it is one of the most water-resistant oils. Many high-quality varnishes are made with tung oil. But, contrary to what you might think, tung oil is seldom used as a finish in its own right.
    Tung oil can be made fairly water-resistant after five or six coats. But it is too soft and thin to resist scratching or water-vapor exchange, and it is difficult to make the finish look nice. The first three or four coats appear flat and splotchy on the wood and feel rough to the touch. Only after five or six coats, sanding between each coat, can you get an even, satin sheen. But the finish is still not as smooth to the touch as linseed oil.
    In addition, tung oil cures very slowly, and it turns white if left to cure in any thickness. The curing is faster than raw linseed oil but slower than boiled linseed oil, so you need to wait several days between coats. This makes tung oil an inefficient finish to use. The white color can cause problems in large pores and cracks in the wood. There is no way to remove the white color if it occurs, short of stripping the wood and starting all over.
    About the only advantage, tung oil has over linseed oil, other than better water-resistance after five or six coats, is that tung oil yellows less than linseed oil. This can be important on blonde woods that you don't want to darken too much.
  • Polymerized Oil Any curing or semi-curing oil can be heated in an oxygen-free environment to around 500 degrees Fahrenheit to increase its gloss and hardness and reduce its curing time. Oil processed in this manner is called polymerized or heat-bodied oil. Polymerized oil is commonly used in ink and outdoor paint. Polymerized oil is sometimes used as a finish by itself. It cures very fast and very hard and resists water and water-vapor penetration. Many gun owners like the results they get when they rub this oil (usually sold by other names, such as Tru-Oil) onto their gun stocks. Because the oil is hard when cured, it's possible to build a film from many thin coats. There are two problems with using polymerized oil as a finish on large surfaces such as furniture: It's expensive, and it cures too fast to be applied and wiped off unless it has been thinned a lot with mineral spirits. (You can't apply polymerized oil in thick layers as you can varnish, or tiny cracks will develop in the cured film.) Besides, no evidence polymerized oil protects significantly better than varnish. For these reasons polymerized oil is not widely used as a furniture finish.
  • Wiping Varnish Most of the "oil" finishes you see on store shelves are varnishes that have been thinned enough so you can wipe them on the wood. Many of these wiping varnishes have names that lead you to believe they are oil. They're not oil, they're varnish. There's a big difference between oil and varnish.
    We have described the oil above. Varnish is made by cooking one or more oils with natural or synthetic resins. The heat causes the oil and resin to combine chemically, forming an entirely new substance. Manufacturers use linseed oil and tung oil, or semi-curing oils such as soybean oil and safflower oil. They once used natural resins (fossilized sap of pine trees) that were imported from Africa and New Zealand. Now, most varnishes are made from synthetic resins such as alkyd, phenolic, and polyurethane. Varnish cures much faster than oil. It also cures glossy (unless the manufacturer adds flatting agents to give a satin or flat sheen). And it is hard when cured (again, check the overspill around the caps of your cans of varnish or wiping varnish).
    The most important difference is the hardness. This permits you to build up varnish in relatively thick coats to a significant film on the surface of the wood. When the varnish is built up, it protects the wood from all but the most severe scratches, and it forms an excellent barrier against stains, water, and water-vapor exchange. Though it might be easier to wipe on a thinned varnish than it is to brush on an unthinned varnish, it will take many more coats to achieve the same thickness and therefore the same amount of protection. Wiping varnishes vary in hardness and water resistance, depending on the types and ratios of resins and oils used to make the varnish. But no wiping varnish I know of lists these variables on the container. For wipe-on/wipe-off applications, it probably doesn't matter what quality the varnish is-the film is too thin. But it does matter if you intend to build the varnish to a thicker film on the surface of the wood. You don't want a soft varnish film on a heavily used surface such as a tabletop, for example. So, in some cases, you may be wise to buy the type and quality of varnish you want and thin it yourself. The amount of thinner used varies. But most brands of common wiping varnishes contain at least 2 parts mineral spirits to 1 part varnish
  • Oil/Varnish Blends Oil and varnish (including polyurethane) are compatible, so they can be mixed. The resulting finish performs with some of the characteristics of each. The oil part of the blend reduces the gloss and makes the finish cure slowly. Application is therefore easy because you have plenty of time. But the oil also makes the finish cure soft (again, test the overspill around the container spout of your oil/varnish blend). This means you can't build oil/varnish blends to a more protective thickness. The varnish part of the blend gives the finish more body and more gloss. As a result, you can achieve an even satin sheen with only two coats instead of the three to six it usually takes with straight oil. The varnish also makes the oil/varnish blend more protective than straight oil, because varnish is harder when cured and more water- and water-vapor-resistant than oil. As you would expect, not all mixtures of oil and varnish give the same protection. Some combinations are better than others, though the differences are often too subtle to detect. Since store-bought blends seldom tell you the types of ratios of oil and varnish used, many woodworkers have chosen to make their own. There are many variables, but the following generalizations should help you decide on a formula:
    • The higher the varnish-to-oil ratio, the better the scratch, water, water vapor, and stain resistance. But if you get the percentage of varnish too high, you will lose some ease of application. A ratio of 90 percent varnish to 10 percent oil, for instance, will perform very much like varnish alone. Begin by mixing half and half, and vary the formulation from there.
    • Using tung oil rather than linseed oil in the mixture will make the finish significantly more water-resistant. But the higher the percentage of tung oil you use, the more coats it will take to achieve an even, satin sheen.
    • Though there are significant differences in the protective qualities of the various varnishes you might use, the differences are difficult to detect when the film is thin. Your choice of varnish is not as significant as your choice of oil.
    • You can thin any blend with mineral spirits. This will make the oil/varnish mixture easier to spread over large surfaces. But it will also thin the coating, so it won't stop up the pores as well on the first application. And it will increase the likelihood of bleeding
Part 3 Choosing an "Oil' Finish

With so many different types of oil, how do you choose which one to use? Of the four types of "oil," two can be eliminated from consideration: straight oil and polymerized oil. Neither of the two straight oils-linseed oil or tung oil-performs well, so it would be rare that you would want to use one of these. Polymerized oil performs well, but it is expensive, is not widely available, and offers no advantage over wiping varnish (with the possible exception of an unthinned variety used on small objects such as gunstocks because it cures so quickly). That leaves oil/varnish blend and wiping varnish. Oil/varnish blend is the easier of the two to use because you have plenty of time to apply it and get the excess wiped off. Oil/varnish blend also produces a pleasing satin sheen that is very popular. But it doesn't protect the wood very well against water, water-vapor exchange, or wear. Oil/varnish blend should be your choice when protection is not of primary importance and you want maximum ease of application and a satin ("rubbed") appearance. Oil/varnish blend is a poor choice for a tabletop, for example, but might be used on a rocking chair, bed, or decorative object.
Wiping varnish is more difficult to apply than oil/varnish blend because it cures much faster. You have less time before it begins to set up. Also, if you choose to build a thicker film on the wood by not wiping off all the excess, you will have problems with the dust settling on and becoming embedded in the finish-just as with unthinned varnish. Wiping varnish produces a glossy sheen unless you use a brand that is made to cure to a satin sheen (in which case you should stir or shake the finish before using), or unless you buff out the gloss with fine steel wool or synthetic steel wool (Scotch-Brite) after the finish has cured. Wiping varnish should be your choice if you want a glossy sheen, or if you want to build a thicker film on the wood.

Maintaining a thin, wiped-on/wiped-off "oil" finish is usually more critical than maintaining any other finish except wax. Even slight wear will create voids in the film, leaving bare wood exposed to spills. The best way to maintain a thin "oil" finish is to recoat it now and then, anytime it begins to look a little dry or show wear. Recoating can be done with the same finish you used originally, or with any other "oil" finish.
"Oil" finishes can also be maintained with paste wax. Paste wax will raise the sheen of a dull surface and will reduce scratching significantly by making the surface slick. But once you've used wax, you should remove it with mineral spirits before applying another coat of finish. Otherwise, the finish will cure softer.
The problems that are difficult to repair in "oil" finishes are water smudges and color differences. Water smudges usually raise the grain of the wood, creating a visually different texture than the surrounding wood. Applying a coat of finish to the smudge seldom removes it from view. It usually helps to rub the surface with steel wool or to sand it lightly with 400- or 600-grit sandpaper and then apply more finish. (You can also apply more finish and then rub or sand while the finish is still wet.) If this doesn't remove the smudge, continue applying more coats of finish to the damaged area until the two sheens blend.
Color differences can be caused by heat or spills staining the wood, or by removal of patina (changing the color of the wood itself), or by eliminating the original stain. You can remove heat or burn stains only by sanding through the damage.
If you realize, after you've applied the finish, that one piece of wood or a part of a piece of wood is lighter than the rest, you can darken it with any dye stain that uses alcohol or lacquer thinner as a solvent. The solvent/dye solution will bite into the finish enough so that you won't remove the color when you wipe it on and wipe off the next coat of finish.

Hope you will have good knowledge about oil and its use, so you can apply this knowledge to your existing and upcoming projects, should you choose an Oil as a finish. However, there are other finishes you may consider for your projects like shellac or wax.

* The information used from the books by Bob Flexner: Understanding Wood Finishing, and The Furniture Bible by Christophe Pourny. Both of those books are great to learn\expand the knowledge about various finishes and their use.
 
THANKS JIM MY QUESTION IS WHAT IS THE BEST FOR US MODELERS, I USE TO USE TUNG OIL, BUT DO NOT USE IT ANY MORE JUST 2 OR 3 COATS OF WIPE ON POLY, WHAT DO YOU USE. GOD BLESS STAY SAFE YOU AND YOURS DON
 
I would also like to hear what others use for a oil/varnish finish
 
THANKS JIM MY QUESTION IS WHAT IS THE BEST FOR US MODELERS, I USE TO USE TUNG OIL, BUT DO NOT USE IT ANY MORE JUST 2 OR 3 COATS OF WIPE ON POLY, WHAT DO YOU USE. GOD BLESS STAY SAFE YOU AND YOURS DON
Hello Don, This is the purpose of my post. I made the heavy-duty job describing the characteristics of the oil finishes, and you will have to choose what you like or what is most suitable for your current project. For example: if you need protection from scratches, neither oil and\or oil varnishes are good. You will mostly use shellac it will add a somewhat hard layer of protection (actually, I will probably make another article about shellac and its use). Oils will bring up the wood grain and will make a nice lust on the surface.
My personal preference, the use of straight oil, and those are Linseed\Flaxseed or Tung oils.
 
Well done, very informative.

A few weeks back I posted a question about using Tru Oil as a finish on wooden model ships. The consensus was as you stated about polymerized oils, it's a great finish, but a bit overkill for ship modeling.

I used it a lot in the past when I was building and refinishing solid body electric guitars. Attached are a couple of old pics from some practice projects using Rit dye and finishing with Tru Oil. The wood is Swamp Ash, so very deep grain, but the Tru Oil also acts as a fill. Very long process of thinning the Tru Oil, spraying it on, let it sit 24 hours, wet sand, repeat, and repeat, and repeat.

The red guitar, I call it Blood Rose, was a scratch build again using Rit dye and Tru Oil. A local artist airbrushed the graphic on the head stock. I built that over 10 years ago, finish still looks great.

The pics don't do the finish justice, very high gloss glass like surface, and very durable finish. It feels great to the touch as well. Not that sticky tacky feel like some of the Poly finishes.

Great for solid body electric guitars, but a bit much for ship models, I would think.
 

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Gee! I have always been under the impression that raw linseed oil was actually boiled to get boiled linseed oil. Thanks for the lesson. For certain models, I have used Interlux interprime wood sealer clear (a very expensive marine paint). To get a flat finish you have to mix it with 1/3 turpentine. It dries to a rock hard finish that turns a rich golden color over the years. I always sand between coats (400/600 grit). Thanks for the lesson.
 
Thanks Jim, I learned a lot! Another area I'd be interested in researching is how different finishes are affected by sunlight over time. Over the years I've used different finishes on my ships from mostly oil to mostly varnish and they seem to be affected differently although my sense is hardly scientific research! BTW oil finish seems to be less affected.
 
Thanks Jim, I learned a lot! Another area I'd be interested in researching is how different finishes are affected by sunlight over time. Over the years I've used different finishes on my ships from mostly oil to mostly varnish and they seem to be affected differently although my sense is hardly scientific research! BTW oil finish seems to be less affected.
Thanks, Thomas. I am planning to continue articles about available and popular finishes. The next will be - Shellac.
 
HI JIM A DUMB QUESTION BUT ONE I HAVE BEEN WONDERING ABOUT, WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN SHELLAC AND VARNISH, FOR SHELLAC I USE ZINZIR NO WAX SHELLAC, ALSO WHAT HAPPENS IF YOU USE WIPE ON POLY AND THEN USE SHELLAC. GOD BLESS STAY SAFE YOU AND YOURS DON
 
HI JIM A DUMB QUESTION BUT ONE I HAVE BEEN WONDERING ABOUT, WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN SHELLAC AND VARNISH, FOR SHELLAC I USE ZINZIR NO WAX SHELLAC, ALSO WHAT HAPPENS IF YOU USE WIPE ON POLY AND THEN USE SHELLAC. GOD BLESS STAY SAFE YOU AND YOURS DON
Hello, Don. It is not simple to answer. You have to understand both properties of shellac and varnishes. I will try to briefly describe each.

Shellac and varnish are the names of finishes used for wood to have a protective covering. These finishes are transparent and not only enhance the durability of any wooden surface but also make a covering that looks attractive. Despite being almost similar in appearance, there are differences in the materials used in these two wooden finishes. There are also some other differences between shellac and varnish that will be talked about in this article.

Varnish
Varnish is a transparent coating made of resins obtained from trees that are mixed with spirits or other oils. The liquid is quick-drying and applied over wood and other surfaces, to have a hard and clear film that is both decorative as well as protective in nature. Varnish leaves the surface glossy though today, it is also made to leave behind not so shiny film. Varnish has been used since time immemorial over wooden furniture to create a finish that makes surfaces beautiful and very durable.

Shellac
Shellac is a resin that is produced by some insects that are native to Southeast Asia, particularly India. It is called lac and naturally secreted by the insect that thrives on many different kinds of trees. The insect makes cocoons of this resin that is used as the base ingredient and mixed with alcohol to make a clear product called shellac. This substance not only makes a protective covering over wood and other surfaces but also seeps in the pores to seal imperfections.

Shellac vs Varnish

• Varnish is of plant origin, whereas shellac is of animal origin.
• Varnish has been in use since much older times than shellac as it was known to ancient Egyptians.
• Shellac is obtained by mixing the resin obtained from the secretions of certain insects that are found in Southeast Asia.
Varnish also cures as it dries. This is the reason it provides more protection to the wooden surface than shellac. Because it cures, a varnish coating provides more protection.
• For antique items, shellac is a better option as it can be applied with thinner coats than varnish.
• Varnish is made by mixing resin of trees with oil, whereas shellac is made by mixing the resinous secretions of insects with alcohol.
• Shellac is nontoxic, and this allows it to be used to make outer coverings of capsules and pills. Shellac is also used as an insulating material in electric appliances.
• Shellac is a type of varnish but not used over surfaces that are exposed to moisture. Shellac is easier than varnish to apply in thin coats and rub to an elegant sheen.
• Shellac is alcohol soluble while the varnish is not soluble in alcohol.


Check the red text, those properties are more suitable for our purpose. This is just in brief, I will prepare a dedicated post for Shellac and its use. Hope I didn't confuse you more.
 
Jim,
Thanks so much for your comprehensive essay on the subject of oils.
My personal preference is the use of schellack mixed with a little methylated spirits over oil on larger surfaces, such as the hull. I use matt clear varnish on smaller items.
Trevor.
 
In addition to Jims fabulous article on wood finishes. I would like to add the comment that models should be finished in Matt or semi gloss rather than full gloss.
Yes, totally agree, Brian. Mate\Sattin or flat - would be advisable to finish on the static model. But...how about RC models? The glossy hull will improve the water sliding making the water-resistance to a minimum.
 
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