Tool for tapering hull planks

[Bob Ellis]

Soaking and clamping prior to gluing sounds good to me, especially as I don't want the cut brass pin shanks showing, as the instructions show for my San Francisco II model. I'll be reading this thread a fair bit before I start the planking! There are some good tips here.

If it's a double planked kit you will remove the pins on the first planking prior to laying the veneer planks. If, however, your plank is tapered (a separate subject, but something you need to know), and set to the hull shape ready for fixing there is no need to pin, a fast setting glue at the stem, when it's set glue the rest of the plank. If you only do a simple bend at the stem (as you would with a plank bender) you will get buckling problems at the curve of the bow. Then you will need to pile in with filler, ie., a pig's ear of a job!! (it's taken the best part of 30 years to get to this method, first have wasted money on every available tool prior to binning them in disgust!!! Never buy a plank bender!!!)

 

[Korsan]

Finally facing the scary task of planking the hull. In my research I saw someone using two metal (?) pieces to hold the planks while planning. Where can I find or make such a tool? can’t tell you how nice it is to have help. Jack

View attachment 287211

Hi JKB
These are parts from Amati which i assembled together and got a very rigid and flexible plank holder for every stage of working.The holder part is hard plastics therefore no damage if you use metal holders.Hope this info is helpfull
Kind Regards from Bosphorus

 

[JKB]

Good question. I did not find it initially searching for Amati. What I did find was the Mantua version in Cornwall Models in the UK (shipping is easy} (Mantua Strip Clamp - 8155). I also found the Mantua version on Amazon. Mantua Model 8155 Strip Clamp and Hull Vise for Ship Model Building My thinking is that it is not an Amati tool but rather from Mantua. Now, I said to self...get my clamp down from the shelf and see who made it...mine is from Panart (Italy) with the same number, 8155. So go figure...and I don't remember where I got the Panart version...it has been too long ago now.

Thank you so much for your effort. I will look for it.

 

[Korsan]

It is difficult to buy only the BallHead Foot of Amati.Normally it is sold together with Amati Keel Clamp or with Amati RotoPaint System.The upper part of RPS is in my opinion a very useless thing. Because of that i bought an Amati Gripper Vice and also the iron made Connection piece separately.But if you cannot find it , so you can make it by yourself using hard wood.I attached fotos how it looks like.I made in 10 min to give you an idea.I recommend ballheadt type foot.

 

[bill36]

1. A very effective process to taper planks is to :
a. mark in pencil on the plank the area you want removed,
b. use a sleeve sander on a drill press (the NRJ had an article a couple of years back on how
to mount the sleeve sander,
c. Put the plank flat on the "sanding box" and sand off what you do not want. Sand to the outside of your line in order to leave the plank a little wider than desired (leave an excess of about 0.02"to the outside),
d. use a box cutter (Harbor Freight has an excellent folding box cutter for about 6 bucks. Buy a pack of 100 extra blades. Success depends depends upon keeping a sharp blade in the cutter) to scrape the final excess material off the plank so that the plank fits against the already installed plank(s). Scrape and fit as necessary for a close fit
e. The longer a plank is, the easier it is to taper. My latest project is L'Hermione' and it has about 600 planks with about 599 of them being tapered. It is easy with the right tools. The least satisfactory too is a plane. Look up the article; it really works and it costs nothing to make.