Has anybody tried any other knots than clove hitches for ratlines? I know that's the true replication, but does something else avoid the up and down waviness induced by the hitches at our scales? Or is it all down to stiffening with nail varnish / PVA to get them looking right?Elements & Practice said:RATLINGS are fastened horizontally to the shrouds, at regular distances, from the futtock-staff downwards, and small spars or boat-oars are seized to the shrouds, about five feet asunder, for the men to stand upon. The first ratling to be thirteen inches below the futtock-staff on the lower shrouds. The ratlings are fastened round each shroud with a clove-hitch, except at the ends, which have an eye spliced in and seized round the shroud. Each ratling is placed thirteen inches asunder. The fore and aftermost shroud are left out for the first six ratlings down from the futtock-staff; and like-wise the six lower ratlings next the dead eyes. The topmast-shrouds are rattled in the same manner; the first ratling thirteen inches below the futtock-staff, and rattled throughout. The swifters on the lower shrouds are then removed lower down, half way between the dead-eyes, and bowsed tight, there to remain.
After the first 200 knots, you'll be a pro. Tip: mount your ship in a keel vice so you can work at a comfortable height with the ship's masts angles toward you. It gets really tiring holding both arms high up in the air trying to tie ratline knots! The keel vice in use below can tip the ship fore and aft as well as port and starboard. The ship was trapped in that vice for almost three years, only released when the ship was complete and display table was ready to accept the ship.Thank you Kurt. I need to make a mark 2 of my tool with sandpaper on the inside. And I need to practice a lot!
Yes, and on the top of it the beeswax covers most of the details of the line, the details, for which we fought so hard...I see a lot of you guys using wax for rigging line, but it attracts dust even in a display case.
Its far better to run your lines through a candle flame to remove the fuzz.
Simple. Don't use fuzzy line. If you use poly, keep it away from intense heat. I melted a backstay in half with a heat gun trying to dry some glue. Not fun.Yes, and on the top of it the beeswax covers most of the details of the line, the details, for which we fought so hard...