• Ships of Scale has incorportated an extra level of security when you log In. Please follow on-screen prompts to acknowledge that you are not a robot via a "Check Box" or a "Pictorial Check Box Puzzle". This is needed due to higher level of AI Activity Security.
  • SUBSCRIBE TO SHIPS IN SCALE TODAY!

    The beloved Ships in Scale Magazine is back and charting a new course for 2026!
    Discover new skills, new techniques, and new inspirations in every issue.

    NOTE THAT OUR NEXT ISSUE WILL BE July/August 2026
  • Win a Free Custom Engraved Brass Coin!!!
    As a way to introduce our brass coins to the community, we will raffle off a free coin during the month of August. Follow link ABOVE for instructions for entering.

Unimat Hobby Lathe Restoration

oivind said:
Hi! Greetings from Norway :)

Found "Ships of Scale" when looking for Emco-Unimat information. I've bought a 1977-model SL that is worse for wear, but I hope to get it running. It's missing a proper chuck, but before i go buy a chuck, I need it to run. Problem is the motor - It spins, but makes a noise that suggestes there is something off with the bearings. Has anyone in here tried opening the U-90 motor and serviced it? I've seen someone claiming there is no replacements for the bronze bearings. Has anyone had a go at servicing the U-90? Any help is appreciated.
Click to expand...
Hi Øivind

I found a couple of videos on Youtube for this:


// Krister
 
New and better motors are available, and may cost less than buying new bearings.

Unless they are just dirty and need a good clean and lube, which some of mine did when I went thru them, it is probably cheaper to get used motor or replacement with newer motor.

Original motors tended to overheat with long continuous use, and replacement motors solved this problem.

A lot depends on voltage of your unit on motor options. Many have gone with new DC motors and variable speed control.
 
Kurt Konrath said:
New and better motors are available, and may cost less than buying new bearings.

Unless they are just dirty and need a good clean and lube, which some of mine did when I went thru them, it is probably cheaper to get used motor or replacement with newer motor.

Original motors tended to overheat with long continuous use, and replacement motors solved this problem.

A lot depends on voltage of your unit on motor options. Many have gone with new DC motors and variable speed control.
Click to expand...
Thanks! I might convert to a brushless motor and speed control at some point, but right now I'm looking into keeping it stock but usable. Also cherish the looks of the original U-90. That being said, I just removed the remaining 50% of the original paint on the base. Have some etch primer and hammer finish paint on order that should arrive some time today.
 
I was given a Unimat SL by my father as an 18th birthday present, which I supplemented later with the table saw and fretsaw attachments. These were used for the deck planks and hull frames respectively for my Elsie Grand Banks schooner 50 years ago but boxed up since then in various dry centrally heated environments so generally in good condition. But I'll be looking at servicing the bearings, checking the motor and generally greasing before using again. So this thread is very useful. Thank you.

I changed the original belts to a set sold on Ebay (from a seller based in Poland) as like-for-like replacements. They fit and the lathe runs but I have yet to see how durable they are.

I also found the following website which may be of interest if you are not already familiar: https://www.unimat-vintage-lathe.com

Ken
 
I removed the remaining original paint chemically, using a spray on variant. The casting was very nice, smooth and with no filler anywhere. I used an etch primer followed by a "normal" primer. Had to sand lightly and reapply, because I got some running from applying the primer too trick. Now I'm trying to restrain myself from applying too much final coating. Says to apply a light coat first, then a final coat "several minutes later". Interpreting that as 15 minutes, in dry, warm weather.
 
Chemicals used:
- "optimize PAINT REMOVER" Item No 48832 (Dutch brand)
- "ColorMATIC" 1K etch primer, grey from "Motip" (German brand)
- "DUPLI-COLOR" universal primer (German brand)
- "HAMMERFINISH GREEN" from "Motip" ART. 04012 (German brand)
- Acetone from "Biltema"

20260802_120946.jpg
 
oivind said:
I removed the remaining original paint chemically, using a spray on variant. The casting was very nice, smooth and with no filler anywhere. I used an etch primer followed by a "normal" primer. Had to sand lightly and reapply, because I got some running from applying the primer too trick. Now I'm trying to restrain myself from applying too much final coating. Says to apply a light coat first, then a final coat "several minutes later". Interpreting that as 15 minutes, in dry, warm weather.
Click to expand...
Hi Oivind,
I know you haven't asked for advice but hopefully this may help you achieve a nice Hammer finish.
Hammer finish paint can be tricky to apply to get a Hammer finish, even harder to get an even Hammer finish on horizontal and vertical surfaces.

"Says to apply a light coat first, then a final coat "several minutes later"" The instructions are right a light "Tack" coat waiting a couple of minutes then followed by a Heavy coat. The difficulty is that you need to apply just enough paint to get the hammer finish but not too much that the paint runs, that difference is not much. I would suggest practicing on a bit of cardboard.
When I have done this sort of painting the final coats would be sprayed at right angles to each other waiting a moment for one coat to "flash off" a little before apling the next coat.

Cheers,
Stephen.
 
Stevedownunder said:
Hi Oivind,
I know you haven't asked for advice but hopefully this may help you achieve a nice Hammer finish.
Hammer finish paint can be tricky to apply to get a Hammer finish, even harder to get an even Hammer finish on horizontal and vertical surfaces.

"Says to apply a light coat first, then a final coat "several minutes later"" The instructions are right a light "Tack" coat waiting a couple of minutes then followed by a Heavy coat. The difficulty is that you need to apply just enough paint to get the hammer finish but not too much that the paint runs, that difference is not much. I would suggest practicing on a bit of cardboard.
When I have done this sort of painting the final coats would be sprayed at right angles to each other waiting a moment for one coat to "flash off" a little before apling the next coat.

Cheers,
Stephen.
Click to expand...
I've never understood the appeal of a hammered finish; was there a purpose for its original development?
To me the smooth casting looks more attractive and much easier to keep clean.
 
oivind said:
Chemicals used:
- "optimize PAINT REMOVER" Item No 48832 (Dutch brand)
- "ColorMATIC" 1K etch primer, grey from "Motip" (German brand)
- "DUPLI-COLOR" universal primer (German brand)
- "HAMMERFINISH GREEN" from "Motip" ART. 04012 (German brand)
- Acetone from "Biltema"

View attachment 623535
Click to expand...
Nice team to get the job done!
 
Hi All,
Perhaps someone here would like one to work on...
I bought a unimat from Bob Hunt several years ago, and it was never used.. he had modified one of the chucks and provided a japanese replacement along with other items. Pictures below. I would love to see this making ship models.. I dont have the time nor knowledge to repair or use this item. It is heavy.. If you are interested PM me (I live in rural VA) [Not looking to make money..cheap to a ship builder]. Pictures here:
photos.app.goo.gl

Unimat · May 20, 2016 – Jan 5, 2023

Shared album · Tap to view!
photos.app.goo.gl photos.app.goo.gl


sorry for hijacking the thread... but it is just gathering dust here..
wonderful thread...
 
Finglas said:
Hi All,
Perhaps someone here would like one to work on...
I bought a unimat from Bob Hunt several years ago, and it was never used.. he had modified one of the chucks and provided a japanese replacement along with other items. Pictures below. I would love to see this making ship models.. I dont have the time nor knowledge to repair or use this item. It is heavy.. If you are interested PM me (I live in rural VA) [Not looking to make money..cheap to a ship builder]. Pictures here:
photos.app.goo.gl

Unimat · May 20, 2016 – Jan 5, 2023

Shared album · Tap to view!
photos.app.goo.gl photos.app.goo.gl


sorry for hijacking the thread... but it is just gathering dust here..
wonderful thread...
Click to expand...
ill take it!

send me a private message with the price n shipping?
 
yeah, ive always wanted a unimat but for one reason or another they just passed me by. ive used an industrial lathe n still have tools for it. i cant wait to play with this lathe. projects are being listed as we speak. fun fun fun!
 
check this out? it looks like a really nice motor replacement for the unimat. anyone have any thoughts on it?

www.servomotorkit.com

Emco Unimat Lathe 550W Variable Speed Spindle Motor Upgrade with reverse parts | ServoMotorKit.

New High Performance 550W servo motor for Unimat lathe.Variable Speed Spindle Drive Motor Upgrade with reverse on the fly.Fits Emco Unimat SL Lathe Model DB 200 Now comes with 2024 model year control unit.See image of what in the box.Video shows the old version controler.Motor produces 200 to...
www.servomotorkit.com www.servomotorkit.com

im going to give this guy a call for more info.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top