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Unimat Hobby Lathe Restoration

paul ron said:
tailstock riser block on amazon...

Tailstock Riser Block Compatible with EMCO Unimat SL/DB Mini Lathe | Mini lathe height adjustment block for tailstock alignment, compact accessory for hobby machining and small workshop projects - Amazon.com

Tailstock Riser Block Compatible with EMCO Unimat SL/DB Mini Lathe | Mini lathe height adjustment block for tailstock alignment, compact accessory for hobby machining and small workshop projects - Amazon.com
www.amazon.com
Click to expand...
What's it made of?
 
paul ron said:
it says plastic.

wa da ya think ur gettin for $25?

but for the light work we do, does it matter?... as long as it aligns.
Click to expand...
Looks 3D printed to me; if so I wouldn't want one.

Mustn't forget, the original lathe really was a limited use entry level modellers tool which was capable of much.

OK, there have been all sorts of 'upgrades' developed around it over the years but I feel the SL can be overstressed.

The later Mk3 with the very sturdy cast iron solid bed was a better prospect for more ambitious work.

This is mine...

DSCF1336 After restoration.JPG
 
oivind said:
The green piece in the picture. I checked it with a magnet, and the fact that it flash rusted when I removed the paint, suggests it's made from iron.
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The very early versions of the SL were cast iron, so I suspect yours has mis-matched components, which could possibly explain issues you've been describing.
 
Could also be a transition model. Makes sense to use new old stock for parts that are dimensionally equal. Old paint also stuck far harder to the cast iron due to the rough surfaces that were not machined.
 
oivind said:
Could also be a transition model. Makes sense to use new old stock for parts that are dimensionally equal. Old paint also stuck far harder to the cast iron due to the rough surfaces that were not machined.
Click to expand...
Sorry, I disagree. I think you got one or the other.

Isn't that iron part the thing that causes your problem of fit on your rails?
An indication that the manufacturing tolerances were different for the iron and zinc iterations.

It would be interesting to compare a complete, older iron lathe to a zinc one; unfortunately I don't have both.

This is an interesting topic; I would imagine anyone who was working at the factory are long gone.
It's details like this which are small incremental changes that contribute to the loss of historical knowledge and truth.
 
I had an issue with the cross slide, but that was due to user error; you're not supposed to gronk the crank wheel in place, just snug enough for it to run accurately, then you tighten the domed nut to make it stay in place. Feels ok that the smaller diameter lead screw runs in cast iron threads rater than zinc alloy.
 
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