USRC Harriet Lane Model Shipways 1:96 scale circa 1863

Regulation is at anchor or dock, under weigh for reviews, dressed-ship, etc
The ensign is the US flag, the flag flow on the bowsprit cap is a "jack" the Revenue Service flag would be at the main truck, the ensign at the "peak" (the peak of the main gaff).
Jerry! I should have known ROTF Thank you so much! Yes, I was trying to Google my way to the answer and figured out my mistake in terminology.

Just to clarify, it is correct for late 1862 to have the jack on the bowsprit cap?

Good to know about the Revenue Service flag, but since she is claimed by the Navy and was in service as a Navy ship, my Harriet Lane will not be flying the revenue service flag:cool:

Blessings.
Chuck
 
As a simple display, fine. If it were a diorama of the ship under weigh in some manner, no.

If she's commanded by a Navy officer, She should fly a commission pennant from the main truck.

In war-time, warships at sea don't usually fly any colors until they meet another vessel, or are coming or going in port. You never know when you might want to fly a CS flag to fool a blockade-runner you're trying catch.
 
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As a simple display, fine. If it were a diorama of the ship under weigh in some manner, no.

If she's commanded by a Navy officer, She should fly a commission pennant from the main truck.

In war-time, warships at sea don't usually fly any colors until they meet another vessel, or are coming or going in port. You never know when you might want to fly a CS flag to fool a blockade-runner you're trying catch.
Thank you, Jerry! The period of my Harriet Lane, late 1862, she was commanded by Navy officers. Her captain, Commander. J. M. Wainwright and executive officer, Lt. Commander. Edward Lea died defending her on January 1, 1863.
 
She definitely needs to stop my grog ration. In the pic in post # 565, there is an inner and outer fore topmast stay. :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: WRONG!!!! See yellow arrow. The is no inner fore topmast stay. Not in the kit plans and most importantly not in Webb's sail and spar plan for Harriet Lane's sister ship America.

Funny thing is, I considered this issue long ago and put an eyebolt in the bow for the right stay - the foremast preventer stay. See red arrow in pic below. Yes, I fixed it. You kidding?ROTF

Fore topmat stay oops.jpg
 
Those hearts and lanyards are awfully high, how will they get the heads'ls down on the sprit to furl them?
I have thought about the question of functionality throughout the rigging process, Jerry. For instance, how are the sailor supposed to get to the ratlines on the lower and upper shrouds, or adjust the tension of the main and fore stays? From a scale perspective much of what I have already done makes no sense. I suppose they will have to stand on each other's shoulders. ROTF
 
Those hearts and lanyards are awfully high, how will they get the heads'ls down on the sprit to furl them?
Jerry! Thank you! As much as I didn't want to hear your advice, after having my coffee and a few cigarettes (breakfast of champions), I did hear it. So the work to redo is underway. The foremast preventer stay is aboard and the upper heart is just above the height of the most forward pin bitts. Pics later, including my process for making hearts out of unusable deadeyes.

Thank you again, Jerry! You reminded me that one of the most important reasons we share our work with peers is to improve our work. My Harriet Lane will be that much better because of you!

Blessings. Peace. Gratitude.
Chuck
 
I looked through this topic from the beginning, but couldn't find any real details of the head-rigging posted, but...
normally the fore-stay(s), and the fore-topmast stay(s) go to fixed point at the base of the bowsprit and not quite the end of the bowsprit respectively. The other stays go through a sheave or bee-hole in the jib-boom and flying jib-boom (if there is one) and either down over the dolphin-striker and back to, or straight back to the bulwark on either side of the bowsprit (knight-heads). They're adjusted by bullseyes and lanyards, (or rigging-screws on larger ships by this time frame).

Yours is a steamer built by a merchant ship-builder basically conscripted into being a warship. You're right to assume her building and rigging would follow what they've built before clippers and merchant steamers.

There's a lot going on in the head-rigging, and it was evolving through the 1840s through the 1860s.
On purpose-built warships it eventually evolved into this:
bowsprit_rigging.jpg
A lot of this ported over from merchant carriers (clippers), the navy used less iron-work and chain through the 1840s.

Welcome to the world of thinking you have it only to find out it wasn't that way, after you've built it.
 
I looked through this topic from the beginning, but couldn't find any real details of the head-rigging posted, but...
normally the fore-stay(s), and the fore-topmast stay(s) go to fixed point at the base of the bowsprit and not quite the end of the bowsprit respectively. The other stays go through a sheave or bee-hole in the jib-boom and flying jib-boom (if there is one) and either down over the dolphin-striker and back to, or straight back to the bulwark on either side of the bowsprit (knight-heads). They're adjusted by bullseyes and lanyards, (or rigging-screws on larger ships by this time frame).

Yours is a steamer built by a merchant ship-builder basically conscripted into being a warship. You're right to assume her building and rigging would follow what they've built before clippers and merchant steamers.

There's a lot going on in the head-rigging, and it was evolving through the 1840s through the 1860s.
On purpose-built warships it eventually evolved into this:
View attachment 500597
A lot of this ported over from merchant carriers (clippers), the navy used less iron-work and chain through the 1840s.

Welcome to the world of thinking you have it only to find out it wasn't that way, after you've built it.
Jerry! Thanks for sharing this with me! Your reference mirrors the information and diagrams in Underhill. I went through Underhill and Crothers for my references for hearts. They are discussed and Underhill gives a nice description of how to set up the lanyards. Nowhere, however, is there any detail about height above the deck, etc.

Blessings.
Chuck
 
The lower fore-stays look fine as you have them. The topmast stay most likely would pass through the bees (small platforms aft of the cap on either side of the sprit with holes in them) and back to bulleyes and lanyards at a eye-bolt in the bulkhead to one side of the bowsprit. You have the outer topmast stay on a traveler, that works fine.

The pic show some head-rigging for an 18th century frigate, but much of it still applies. It also shows the bees though yours would probably more resemble a cheek-block.
1739243996002.png
 
Somehow I forgot to post this from last night.

Last thing before I pipe down. I'm not sure how I came on the idea of the foremast preventer stay. I knew, because of the armament and raised foredeck, that the foremast stay described in the kit plan would not be placed according to plan. I may have just decided that there should be an additional fore stay in the bows. Or, most likely, I already had the sail and spar plan for America, Harriet Lane's older sister. Here's the plan. The preventer stay is bracketed in blue lines. This stay is not in the kit plan. So, future or current builders of Harriet Lane, be sure to add this stay. ;)

Blessings.
Chuck

America - Fore Mast Stays.jpeg
 
The lower fore-stays look fine as you have them. The topmast stay most likely would pass through the bees (small platforms aft of the cap on either side of the sprit with holes in them) and back to bulleyes and lanyards at a eye-bolt in the bulkhead to one side of the bowsprit. You have the outer topmast stay on a traveler, that works fine.

The pic show some head-rigging for an 18th century frigate, but much of it still applies. It also shows the bees though yours would probably more resemble a cheek-block.
View attachment 500651
Jerry! Thank you! Crothers and Underhill, my primary sources, certainly show that the kit, as planned, doesn't match the period correct head rigging. In fact, my jib stay on a traveler is wrong for the period. If my recollection serves (relying on my recollection rather than walking down to the shipyard and getting the books - I'm tired) all of the outer stays pass through the jib and are led back to the hull via a much more complicate martingale set up to either deadeyes and lanyard or turnbuckles attached to the hull. I was led to the archaic jib stay setup by following another modeler's build of Harriet Lane. By the time I studied my sources and realize my error, I had a hole in my jib boom and a nifty traveler I made. Rather than scrap it all, I decided to go with my inaccurate set up. Honestly, in part I did not want to turn another jib boom and waste my nifty scratch-made traveler, but I also like the look and the additional details of the inhaul and outhaul lines going through the fair leads to the bitts I set up in the bow.

There's probably a way to put theses pics side by side, but I don't know how. So on top is the America sail and spar plan. (Interesting the detail of the martingale set-up is absent.) Below that is my head rigging.

America - Fore Mast Stays cropped.jpeg

Head rigging my HL.jpg

Yellow = foremast stay. Green = foremast preventer stay. Orange = topmast stay. Blue = jib stay. Red = period correct path of jib stay.

If I did the kit again, I would definitely redesign the head rigging arrangements to match more accurately how she was probably rigged. Yup, tomorrow I'll post, for current and future builders.;)

Blessings. Peace. Gratitude.
Chuck
 
A lot of the time on my builds I hit a wall with some of these rigging choices and the books all offer different alternatives and frequently I can't find the belaying points. So, I just do what seems like it would work if you were in the crew and had to deal with it. Besides (unless you're Jerry Todd, who's gonna know?)
 
I submit the yellow and green lines (not the DC subway lines) are either/or, you don't need both. Preventer-stays are mostly a warship thing, something to back-up the main part in case of battle damage.
She was refit, ending up in the configuration you're modeling, at a Navy depot, so she may have been rigged Navy-style, but if they didn't need to make extensive repairs to her rig, they most likely just put it back to rights as it was, which was more merchant ship than warship, considering her designer/builder.
The green line (fore-stay) allows for a more substantial sail than the yellow line does, and if done Navy-style, would have been doubled, side-by-side. un-snaked, so a heads'l could be hanked on.
 
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