USS Constitution - Model Shipways

So you laid out the bearding line so from the line to the false keel will be where the rabbit is cut. Tip: if you false keel is 1/4" thick the is you temporally attach a 1/8" strip to the bottom of the frame so you then have a reference of how far to cut the rabbit. If you have double blank using 1/32" planks means the rabbit should be equal to the plank total thickness or in the case of two 1/32" planks the rabbit would be 1/16".
 
Hello,

I' have a rather important question, eg to be 100% sure.
In the provided plans, eg drawings, they marked the aerea for beveling the bulkheads.
They proposed to mark this on each bulkhead and bevel....
But, should I start beveling on top in corner A?
I'm afraid of sanding or cutting too much. After all, it is the intention that the planks/strips follow the curvature of the hull.
But at the HMS FLY I have taken too much away, especially at the bow side....

And, they suggest doing this in advance...so completely dependent on the measurements on the drawings

Thx in advance

View attachment 384742

View attachment 384743
I just bought the wen disc sander and drilling rotary tool. Has the three ft flex cable. Bout the rotary tool and the 300 piece accessory kit from lowe's for less than $45.00 This kind of work is exactly what this rotary was designe d for.
 
First thing mark the frames with the plans. But read the planking tutorial in #13 before doing any cutting. Second in my opinion I would build up the entire skeleton and then start very very very slowly with fairing any frames using battens after adding filling blocks.
 
Yesterday evening (it's now 7 pm in Brussels area), I glued the Keel parts together and placed some enforcements on top of the joints.
Also the keel parts are glued.....
Now finishing the bevel of the part below the Bearding line and starting to prepare the Bulkheads.

View attachment 384998
You're the correct path. It's looking good. I like the joint reinforcements.
 
HMSFly,
I have the same kit in my personal stock so thank you for sharing your build, it will be a great help to me when that one has its turn to be built. How are the ropes and blocks in that kit, would you upgrade them?
What did you think about the Amati HMS Fly kit?
Also, that dimpleing tool - I can't seem to locate a supplier for it. I checked the Ages of sail web site, they carry Amati - but not that tool,
seems like the correct way to make those copper plates somewhat accurately....
And to Uwek - thanks so much for that planking down load! So much info and a great help!
Can any one point me in the correct direction to learn how to tie a clove hitch?
And seizing (?) Ropes ...when and where would they be used?
Enough questions for a Sunday night...
Thank you,
I care about and appreciate all you guys!!
 
HMSFly,
I have the same kit in my personal stock so thank you for sharing your build, it will be a great help to me when that one has its turn to be built. How are the ropes and blocks in that kit, would you upgrade them?
What did you think about the Amati HMS Fly kit?
Also, that dimpleing tool - I can't seem to locate a supplier for it. I checked the Ages of sail web site, they carry Amati - but not that tool,
seems like the correct way to make those copper plates somewhat accurately....
And to Uwek - thanks so much for that planking down load! So much info and a great help!
Can any one point me in the correct direction to learn how to tie a clove hitch?
And seizing (?) Ropes ...when and where would they be used?
Enough questions for a Sunday night...
Thank you,
I care about and appreciate all you guys!!
Hello,

Regarding the dimpleing tool: hope this helps
Well, regarding the kit, I wil give you my personal opion (And you should know that I am quite demanding when it comes to quality.):
I ordered the Amati's HMS Pegasus upgrade kit (see previous logs) because they contain the perfect eyebolt holder, support for the climbing ropes under the yards etc... So yes, I suggest to upgrade the kit.
I also ordered 50 pieces of European basswood strips ( L = 1 metric meter) and balsa because I'm going to fill the spaces between the bulkheads.....

Regarding the HMS Fly:
As always, there are pro's and contra's.
My biggest disappointment are the MDF made Bulkheads etc... and Hull parts.
As soon as you as you split a fine nail into it, the MDF will burst with all its consequences.
I found the wood to be of lesser quality, for example after sanding the parts became even rougher than before....
So, pour quality of the wooden parts: With the exception of the walnut strips (good quality).
You also should purchase the upgrade kit: it's worth the money given the beautiful brass decorations.
If I had to recreate the ship, I would certainly have added lighting. After all, you spend a lot of time on the between deck that actually disappears from sight after finalization.
It's a beautiful ship. The model looks good.

1689574118231.png
 
HMSFly,
I have the same kit in my personal stock so thank you for sharing your build, it will be a great help to me when that one has its turn to be built. How are the ropes and blocks in that kit, would you upgrade them?
What did you think about the Amati HMS Fly kit?
Also, that dimpleing tool - I can't seem to locate a supplier for it. I checked the Ages of sail web site, they carry Amati - but not that tool,
seems like the correct way to make those copper plates somewhat accurately....
And to Uwek - thanks so much for that planking down load! So much info and a great help!
Can any one point me in the correct direction to learn how to tie a clove hitch?
And seizing (?) Ropes ...when and where would they be used?
Enough questions for a Sunday night...
Thank you,
I care about and appreciate all you guys!!
Try this link for an animated version of tying a clove hitch: https://www.animatedknots.com/clove-hitch-knot-rope-end
 
Can any one point me in the correct direction to learn how to tie a clove hitch?
.
Thank you,
I care about and appreciate all you guys!!
Here you go, remember you will be doing them horizontally not vertical as shown, but same basis. Just tie one side like shown and keep going across the width of shrouds. I have practiced a bit on some temp strings for test shrouds. Use a pair of tweezers to keep tension on help pull slack as you progress.

 
Hi Great to see another MS Constitution being built, I started mine last month. This is a very challenging kit (for me at least) I have found there was a lot of filing in the keel slots for the bulkheads and some of the parts don't match the drawings. Still I'm having a lot of fun with this ship I only hope I can see it through to the end.
Let me know if I can be of any help.
Tony
 
I took the time, While the glue of the Keel was drying, to prepare the counter block.
Since I copied each drawing-plan three times, I cut out the dimensions from the plans and glued them to the supplied balsa wood. Then it is a matter of patience, precision, sanding, filing and sawing. I am quite satisfied with the result.

And, in the meantime, the balsa block has also arrived and the new basswood strips.

Keel.jpg

counter-block.jpg

balsa.jpg
 
outstanding work on the filler blocks. I never have the patience to produce something as nice as those. I always made them close enough and finished them with frame fairing.
 
Hi Will (ref. Will@trilogie)

Your remark regarding the filler blocks:
Can I change your mind? It is much easier to make the filler blocks if they are not already glued to the hull. After all, see for example the bow filler block: quite a difficult shape... here too I glued the paper plans to the balsa...and just sanded and sawed...and sanded and....

And you avoid any damage to the Hull or other parts....

bow 1.jpg

bow filler block.jpg

bow2.jpg
 
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