• LUCZORAMA SHIPWRECK SCAVENGER HUNT GIVEAWAY. 4 Weeks of Fun • 1 Legendary Prize ((OcCre’s Fram Ship)) • Global Crew Welcome!
    **VIEW THREAD HERE**

What glue is best ?

Stevieray64

Stevieray64

Joined
Jan 29, 2024
Messages
4
Points
3
Hi guys , what glue do you find best for rigging and block tying ?, I've tried with superglue thin and to be honest I find it either goes everywhere or goes chunky and white ? Am I doing something wrong ? All comments great fully received
 
Hey Steve,

there can be various factors why the second glue turns white.

I would only use thinned wood glue for ropes and rigging. This does not turn white, but remains transparent. But as I said, you have to be careful with superglue.

Best regards
Günther Ship-1
 
I have had good success with white PVA thinned down. It takes a few minutes to dry, but works well and has bit more give with no staining like CA. Have not tried clear PVA as suggested above but will look into it as well.
Allan
 
Roger Pellett said:
Nitrocellulose based clear nail polish. It comes in a little bottle with a brush in the top.
Click to expand...

Like a lot of materials that used to work reliably well, but are now on the "environmentalists' hit list," nitrocellulose lacquer is becoming more difficult to source outside of specialty retailers. The flammability of nitrocellulose is such that OSHA regulations now impose a host of expensive regulations on its commercial manufacture and handling. Nitrocellulose nail polish is still available, AFAIK, but is expensive and the out-of-the-bottle consistency of the nail polish is thicker than I prefer for fastening rigging knots. It is also high-gloss, so if a blob sits on the surface without soaking into the fibers, you end up with a shiny knot. When I used it, I would thin the nail polish by adding a bit of acetone to the nail polish bottle. At present, of my wife's reports are any indication, the trend in nail polish is away from the nitrocellulose-based lacquers and towards acrylics and what they call "UV-curing gels." Duco cement is still real nitrocellulose adhesive (nitrocellulose dissolved in acetone,) but It has to be thinned for brushing onto knots and isn't cheap anymore, either.

If it's real nitrocellulose lacquer that you are about, the luthiers still use a lot of it due to its tonal qualities. There are several brands, all of which can be sourced through lutherie suppliers, and some is even "satin" finish.

1752090605942.png

See: https://www.amazon.com/Solo-Guitars-Oxford-Nitrocellulose-Lacquer/dp/B0BZX1J1FM/ref=sr_1_17?adgrpid=1345802799182654&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.wxy1aZ2g9zDJC9oMW2TOLhl7v7G6eRLFi3HrYWYbaf-uuKmDVKI1ALvJfqagPBUAL-txpdZxCgD3nygjdx--BOp9FZ7km_8VxmMS0l9P5F09RDvRJamg3gK2RRuDwESlkXH35-TMNx6autWJMokFp07qlGfpt8OSA4htW3oJZAsJNi0wllrY0XSZ4WqU1rZ7.c2N6sPB2v5QG90o3zobbWLMjIfvJANacnTfgA-ivhh8&dib_tag=se&hvadid=84112998031788&hvbmt=bp&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=88716&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=p&hvtargid=kwd-84113025843009:loc-190&hydadcr=29646_14610018&keywords=nitrocellulose+polish&mcid=d050ee12575a31219025d2540f562b1b&msclkid=91c0551276f918de037e3d7cc9e7c325&qid=1752088477&sr=8-17

Nitrocellulose has the advantage of being more or less easily dissolved with acetone, so, if necessary, knots secured with it can be untied. The only other material I know of that can reliably be dissolved easily is shellac. (In theory, PVA can be dissolved with isopropyl alcohol, but, in my experience, not that easily.) Since I use canned clear shellac extensively as a sealer, I have gone to using it for fastening rigging knots as well, primarily because it's handy and dirt cheap, but also because it soaks into the fibers readily, dries invisibly, is less noxious, being alcohol-based, and dissolves easier than anything else I know of.
 
Last edited:
That depends on the rope you use. Cotton likes diluted white wood glue. And polyester rope responds best to thin superglue. I have a fine sewing needle to apply the glue. I inserted the needle with the pointed tip into a wooden rod to create a handle and I cut the eye in half. So that this becomes a tiny fork that I use to pick up the glue. This way I can dose very precisely on the knot. The excess glue I remove immediately with the fingers FAST. This immediately removes any shine. You don't need much glue, just enough to keep the knot in shape.

IMG_2208.JPG

This is the largest eye needle, I have ones that are even smaller and I use them more often.

1752091499674.jpeg
 
This is a tough one. If used properly, and with an applicator such as 'THIS' super-thin Ca glue can easily be applied, very sparingly, without frosting... as the frosting 'typically' occurs when too much glue is applied. That's not 'always' the case, but 'minimal' is a good general rule of thumb. Clear nail polish is another good adhesive for things like this. I learned the nail polish trick from back when I used to tie trout flies for fly fishing. Thinned PVA is good also, but 'thinned' close to water consistency is the key. As with 'all' adhesives, go easy! Too much glue will 'shine' once cured. If you 'want' a sheen, slather it on. If you 'don't' want a sheen, use just enough to get the job done. Less is usually 'more'! It really doesn't take as much glue as we typically like to 'think' it does!
 
clear nail polish sold at box stores works fine. its lacquer and does hold up for a long long time.

my oldest ship over 50 years old is doing just fine with both nail polish and diluted carpenters glue. back then i was trying anything i had handy.

remember, its a static model and since nothing is being toutched, there really isnt any danger even the lines i used nothing more than plain water to shape the ropes in place. just be carefull when dusting.
 
For fixing when working with rigging, I have been using shellac alcohol varnish for many years! The advantages over all the above clamps are that it is very easy to loosen and untangle the knot if necessary. To do this, it is enough to apply alcohol and the fixation area is freed up. Often, when restoring models, you have to pull out the weakened rigging, and fixing it with shellac allows you to do this without problems, without damaging the original. Securely fixes, for many years!
dropdown arrow

It is practically invisible on the rigging!
 
Sandekus said:
For fixing when working with rigging, I have been using shellac alcohol varnish for many years! The advantages over all the above clamps are that it is very easy to loosen and untangle the knot if necessary. To do this, it is enough to apply alcohol and the fixation area is freed up. Often, when restoring models, you have to pull out the weakened rigging, and fixing it with shellac allows you to do this without problems, without damaging the original. Securely fixes, for many years!
dropdown arrow

It is practically invisible on the rigging!
Click to expand...
Cotton or poly rope?
 
Cotton or poly rope?
------------------------
works with both materials, you need to select the thickness for poly
 
I noticed that thin Ca often spreads/absorbs along the rope where this section hardens and often snaps off! when disturbed.Am I doing something wrong. Working on HMS Endeavors spreaders now attaching blocks.
 
Thank you but sometimes for the end of blocks where you mke the knot, that very edge, not the strand...snaps of if bend curved too much by the halyards. Excuse my ignorance here.. I am no expert like you guys who have build multiple models.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top