Wood Filler recommendations

[DamonH]

Hi folks. I am at a stage where I need some wood filler. Traditionally when working with plastics I used to take the sprues and grind them down making my own fillers with cement and plastic shavings.

Working with wood I though about doing the same with the left over from sanding and have been saving that with making my own filler in mind using diluted glue and the shavings left over.

But, I thought I'd ask you more skilled builders your recommendations. In the instructions from Shipways the author recommends a car body filler you use for working on cars. I really didn't like that idea, but, you never know.

Anyway, appreciate insights and recommendations for a newbie.

Cheers!

 

[Jimsky]

Hi folks. I am at a stage where I need some wood filler. Traditionally when working with plastics I used to take the sprues and grind them down making my own fillers with cement and plastic shavings.

Working with wood I though about doing the same with the left over from sanding and have been saving that with making my own filler in mind using diluted glue and the shavings left over.

But, I thought I'd ask you more skilled builders your recommendations. In the instructions from Shipways the author recommends a car body filler you use for working on cars. I really didn't like that idea, but, you never know.

Anyway, appreciate insights and recommendations for a newbie.

Cheers!

, here are some commercially available wood fillers, categorized for clarity:

Water-Based Wood Fillers:

These are generally a good choice for beginners due to their low odor, easy water cleanup, and availability in various wood tones. They are suitable for small to medium-sized repairs

• Elmer's Carpenter's Wood Filler: A very common and readily available option. It's easy to sand and paint.
• DAP Plastic Wood-X with DryDex: This water-based filler has a color-changing indicator that signals when it's dry and ready to sand. It's stainable and paintable.
• Goodfilla Wood Filler: A popular choice among woodworkers, known for minimal shrinkage, excellent stainability, and the ability to be reconstituted with water if it dries out. It comes in various colors and can be tinted.
• Famowood Water-Based Wood Filler: Similar to the solvent-based version but with the benefits of a water-based formula (low odor, easy cleanup). Available in different wood colors.
• Gorilla Wood Filler: A strong and durable water-resistant option suitable for indoor and outdoor use. It's stainable and paintable.
• Aqua Coat Clear Wood Grain Filler: Specifically designed to fill the pores of open-grained woods like oak and mahogany for a smooth finish. It can also be tinted.
• Wurth Fill and Finish Wood Filler: A ready-to-use, water-based filler available in various wood species colors. It boasts no shrinkage and good sandability.

Solvent-Based Wood Fillers:

These tend to be more durable and resist shrinking better than water-based options, making them suitable for larger repairs. However, they often have a stronger odor and require solvent-based cleanup.

• Famowood Solvent-Based Wood Filler: A long-standing favorite known for its strength and stainability. It comes in a wide range of wood tones.
• DAP Plastic Wood Professional Wood Filler: A fast-drying, strong filler that can be molded and sculpted. It's stainable and paintable and comes in various wood shades.
• 3M Bondo Wood Filler: While known for car body repair, Bondo also makes a strong, solvent-based wood filler suitable for larger repairs. It's durable and paintable.

Epoxy-Based Wood Fillers:

For the most durable and often waterproof repairs, especially in areas that might experience stress or rot, epoxy fillers are excellent. They can be a bit more involved to use as they require mixing two parts.

• Abatron WoodEpox: A high-performance, two-part epoxy filler that's excellent for repairing and restoring damaged wood. It's non-shrinking, weather-resistant, and can be painted, stained, drilled, and sanded.
• System Three SculpWood Putty: A two-part epoxy putty that's easy to apply and sand. It's non-shrinking and compatible with most primers and paints.
• TotalBoat FixWood: A marine-grade epoxy putty designed for repairing rotted or damaged wood. It's waterproof, strong, and can be stained or painted.
• J-B Weld KwikWood: A two-part epoxy putty stick that's easy to mix and use for quick repairs. It hardens quickly and can be sanded and painted.
• PC Products PC-Woody: A two-part epoxy paste that provides strong repairs on wood and other materials. It's sandable and paintable.

Things to Consider When Choosing:

• Size of the Repair: For small nail holes and minor imperfections, water-based fillers or your own wood dust mixture might suffice. Larger gaps or areas needing more strength might benefit from solvent-based or epoxy fillers.
• Desired Finish: If you plan to stain your model, choose a filler that is explicitly labeled as "stainable" and ideally test it with your stain on scrap wood first.
• Indoor/Outdoor Use: If your model might be exposed to moisture, consider a water-resistant or epoxy-based filler.
• Odor and Cleanup: If you prefer low odor and easy cleanup, water-based fillers are the way to go.
• Color Matching: Some fillers come in various wood tones, which can be helpful. For the best match, your own sanding dust is ideal, or you can look for stainable fillers and use wood stain to achieve the desired color.

For a beginner in wooden ship modeling, I'd still suggest trying your wood dust and diluted glue mixture for small fills first. If you need a commercially available option, water-based fillers like Elmer's, DAP Plastic Wood-X, or Goodfilla are generally user-friendly and suitable for many common filling tasks.

Happy filling!

 

[Namabiiru]

Depends on how you plan to finish it. If you are going to paint, fine sawdust mixed with wood glue works just fine. If you plan to stain or varnish, you can fill small holes with sawdust and cooked white rice (not minute rice). A Japanese woodworker friend taught me that.

There are also commercial woodfillers available that are supposed to take stain. I think Minwax makes some that are pre-pigmented to match their stain colors.

 

[DamonH]

, here are some commercially available wood fillers, categorized for clarity:

Water-Based Wood Fillers:

These are generally a good choice for beginners due to their low odor, easy water cleanup, and availability in various wood tones. They are suitable for small to medium-sized repairs.

• Elmer's Carpenter's Wood Filler: A very common and readily available option. It's easy to sand and paint.
• DAP Plastic Wood-X with DryDex: This water-based filler has a color-changing indicator that signals when it's dry and ready to sand. It's stainable and paintable.
• Goodfilla Wood Filler: A popular choice among woodworkers, known for minimal shrinkage, excellent stainability, and the ability to be reconstituted with water if it dries out. It comes in various colors and can be tinted.
• Famowood Water-Based Wood Filler: Similar to the solvent-based version but with the benefits of a water-based formula (low odor, easy cleanup). Available in different wood colors.
• Gorilla Wood Filler: A strong and durable water-resistant option suitable for indoor and outdoor use. It's stainable and paintable.
• Aqua Coat Clear Wood Grain Filler: Specifically designed to fill the pores of open-grained woods like oak and mahogany for a smooth finish. It can also be tinted.
• Wurth Fill and Finish Wood Filler: A ready-to-use, water-based filler available in various wood species colors. It boasts no shrinkage and good sandability.

Solvent-Based Wood Fillers:

These tend to be more durable and resist shrinking better than water-based options, making them suitable for larger repairs. However, they often have a stronger odor and require solvent-based cleanup.

• Famowood Solvent-Based Wood Filler: A long-standing favorite known for its strength and stainability. It comes in a wide range of wood tones.
• DAP Plastic Wood Professional Wood Filler: A fast-drying, strong filler that can be molded and sculpted. It's stainable and paintable and comes in various wood shades.
• 3M Bondo Wood Filler: While known for car body repair, Bondo also makes a strong, solvent-based wood filler suitable for larger repairs. It's durable and paintable.

Things to Consider When Choosing:

• Size of the Repair: For small nail holes and minor imperfections, water-based fillers or your own wood dust mixture might suffice. Larger gaps or areas needing more strength might benefit from solvent-based or epoxy fillers.
• Desired Finish: If you plan to stain your model, choose a filler that is explicitly labeled as "stainable" and ideally test it with your stain on scrap wood first.
• Indoor/Outdoor Use: If your model might be exposed to moisture, consider a water-resistant or epoxy-based filler.
• Odor and Cleanup: If you prefer low odor and easy cleanup, water-based fillers are the way to go.
• Color Matching: Some fillers come in various wood tones, which can be helpful. For the best match, your own sanding dust is ideal, or you can look for stainable fillers and use wood stain to achieve the desired color.

For a beginner in wooden ship modeling, I'd still suggest trying your wood dust and diluted glue mixture for small fills first. If you need a commercially available option, water-based fillers like Elmer's, DAP Plastic Wood-X, or Goodfilla are generally user-friendly and suitable for many common filling tasks.

Happy filling!

Thanks Jim for the breakdown.
I'll look at water based fillers marked for staining. I really don't want to get into solvents if I can avoid it. Right now I am working on small boats. The one I am working on right now is the Norwegien Pram. Noticed some small gaps I want to close up. So I will probably use either Elmer's or DAP.
For larger I might try Gorilla. I will let you know how it goes.
In the meantime, happy modeling!

 

[DamonH]

Depends on how you plan to finish it. If you are going to paint, fine sawdust mixed with wood glue works just fine. If you plan to stain or varnish, you can fill small holes with sawdust and cooked white rice (not minute rice). A Japanese woodworker friend taught me that.

There are also commercial woodfillers available that are supposed to take stain. I think Minwax makes some that are pre-pigmented to match their stain colors.

THank Jimsky. I'll look into the cooked white rice idea. I tend to save scraps and lots of sawdust. Just how I am built.
Right now the boats I am working on will be painted so, will probably start with Elmers or DAP.

Cheers and Happy Modeling.

 

[Senorbob]

, here are some commercially available wood fillers, categorized for clarity:

Water-Based Wood Fillers:

These are generally a good choice for beginners due to their low odor, easy water cleanup, and availability in various wood tones. They are suitable for small to medium-sized repairs.

• Elmer's Carpenter's Wood Filler: A very common and readily available option. It's easy to sand and paint.
• DAP Plastic Wood-X with DryDex: This water-based filler has a color-changing indicator that signals when it's dry and ready to sand. It's stainable and paintable.
• Goodfilla Wood Filler: A popular choice among woodworkers, known for minimal shrinkage, excellent stainability, and the ability to be reconstituted with water if it dries out. It comes in various colors and can be tinted.
• Famowood Water-Based Wood Filler: Similar to the solvent-based version but with the benefits of a water-based formula (low odor, easy cleanup). Available in different wood colors.
• Gorilla Wood Filler: A strong and durable water-resistant option suitable for indoor and outdoor use. It's stainable and paintable.
• Aqua Coat Clear Wood Grain Filler: Specifically designed to fill the pores of open-grained woods like oak and mahogany for a smooth finish. It can also be tinted.
• Wurth Fill and Finish Wood Filler: A ready-to-use, water-based filler available in various wood species colors. It boasts no shrinkage and good sandability.

Solvent-Based Wood Fillers:

These tend to be more durable and resist shrinking better than water-based options, making them suitable for larger repairs. However, they often have a stronger odor and require solvent-based cleanup.

• Famowood Solvent-Based Wood Filler: A long-standing favorite known for its strength and stainability. It comes in a wide range of wood tones.
• DAP Plastic Wood Professional Wood Filler: A fast-drying, strong filler that can be molded and sculpted. It's stainable and paintable and comes in various wood shades.
• 3M Bondo Wood Filler: While known for car body repair, Bondo also makes a strong, solvent-based wood filler suitable for larger repairs. It's durable and paintable.

Epoxy-Based Wood Fillers:

For the most durable and often waterproof repairs, especially in areas that might experience stress or rot, epoxy fillers are excellent. They can be a bit more involved to use as they require mixing two parts.

• Abatron WoodEpox: A high-performance, two-part epoxy filler that's excellent for repairing and restoring damaged wood. It's non-shrinking, weather-resistant, and can be painted, stained, drilled, and sanded.
• System Three SculpWood Putty: A two-part epoxy putty that's easy to apply and sand. It's non-shrinking and compatible with most primers and paints.
• TotalBoat FixWood: A marine-grade epoxy putty designed for repairing rotted or damaged wood. It's waterproof, strong, and can be stained or painted.
• J-B Weld KwikWood: A two-part epoxy putty stick that's easy to mix and use for quick repairs. It hardens quickly and can be sanded and painted.
• PC Products PC-Woody: A two-part epoxy paste that provides strong repairs on wood and other materials. It's sandable and paintable.

Things to Consider When Choosing:

• Size of the Repair: For small nail holes and minor imperfections, water-based fillers or your own wood dust mixture might suffice. Larger gaps or areas needing more strength might benefit from solvent-based or epoxy fillers.
• Desired Finish: If you plan to stain your model, choose a filler that is explicitly labeled as "stainable" and ideally test it with your stain on scrap wood first.
• Indoor/Outdoor Use: If your model might be exposed to moisture, consider a water-resistant or epoxy-based filler.
• Odor and Cleanup: If you prefer low odor and easy cleanup, water-based fillers are the way to go.
• Color Matching: Some fillers come in various wood tones, which can be helpful. For the best match, your own sanding dust is ideal, or you can look for stainable fillers and use wood stain to achieve the desired color.

For a beginner in wooden ship modeling, I'd still suggest trying your wood dust and diluted glue mixture for small fills first. If you need a commercially available option, water-based fillers like Elmer's, DAP Plastic Wood-X, or Goodfilla are generally user-friendly and suitable for many common filling tasks.

Happy filling!

great information

 

[Jimsky]

So I will probably use either Elmer's or DAP.

I'm really happy with Elmer's; it dries quickly and sands down to a very fine surface. Although they say it's stainable, I haven't actually tried staining it myself.

 

[RogerD]

I’ve been using an Aussie filler called Timbermate for some years. There’s been a couple of threads referencing this versatile product. Comes in different wood shades.

HMS Jalouse - Caldercraft by Ted

Some our best solutions are the ones we invent on our own. I just think back to what the artisans of old might have done and I am convinced they found their own solutions much like many of us have done. My solution to tapering and also bevelling planks was to make wooden jig with stops in a...

shipsofscale.com

 

[Roger Pellett]

Bondo original formula auto body filler and Durham’s “Rock Hard” Water Putty. All of my models are painted.

Roger

 

[tomoinoz]

We use numerous types of fillers in my Joinery.
The best for small imperfections and nail holes etc is wax sticks.
They are available in many timber colours and if needed, can be mixed together to make custom colours.
You simply heat the stick with a lighter (or keep it in your pocket) to make it soft and push it into the required area with the edge of a stanley knife blade.
What little excess remains can be scraped off with the blade and lightly sanded if needed.
This method makes it difficult to see repairs.
It could also be used in a contrasting colour to emulate nails etc in pre drilled holes.
You can apply most finishes over this product.
The best thing is that you don't have to wait for it to dry before sanding etc.

 

[Smithy]

It could also be used in a contrasting colour to emulate nails etc in pre drilled holes.

Now that's an interesting idea!

 

[DamonH]

It could also be used in a contrasting colour to emulate nails etc in pre drilled holes.

What an interesting idea!!! I was thinking of how to enhance these small details in future builds. I think it would be better than using pencils and inks to bring out these small details. I'll have to experiment with this as I get closer to my goals. Perhaps I can order the wood to build decks to practice on.

Thanks a mil for the suggestion!

 

[MartinJel]

I've used Rockler "Wunderfil" and found it easy to use. It comes in four different wood colors - oak, walnut, cherry and golden brown; and it's water soluble..

 

[Thomas]

Depends on how you plan to finish it. If you are going to paint, fine sawdust mixed with wood glue works just fine. If you plan to stain or varnish, you can fill small holes with sawdust and cooked white rice (not minute rice). A Japanese woodworker friend taught me that.

There are also commercial woodfillers available that are supposed to take stain. I think Minwax makes some that are pre-pigmented to match their stain colors.

Great idea--an excuse to have a sushi snack while working!

 

[itwbluey]

THank Jimsky. I'll look into the cooked white rice idea. I tend to save scraps and lots of sawdust. Just how I am built.
Right now the boats I am working on will be painted so, will probably start with Elmers or DAP.

Cheers and Happy Modeling.

I can relate to that…must be built the same way…..sandings, lead pencil graphite shavings, wood plane shavings and various metallic leftovers…

 

[Quint]

BONDO Glazing and Spot Putty, have been using it for years. Dries fast, easy to sand.

 

[Bob Cleek]

It could also be used in a contrasting colour to emulate nails etc in pre drilled holes.

Wax sticks (cabinetmakers crayons) are very handy for small imperfections. They are less suitable for larger imperfections because the wax is malleable and prefers "holes" to hold it in place. For wider imperfections, any surfacing putty is preferable because it can be built up and then sanded fair. My favorite is Interlux Surfacing Putty. It uses acetone as a solvent and can be reconstituted in the can by adding a few tablespoons to the can and letting it sit upside down overnight to return it to "peanut butter" consistency. It sands extremely easily and can be sanded to a very smooth surface. Because of its acetone solvent, it cures very quickly as the acetone evaporates. This permits quick work without having to wait undue amounts of time between sanding "attacks." See: https://www.amazon.com/s?k=interlux...6887227f64&tag=mh0b-20&ref=pd_sl_6qak90lgdy_e

The main reason I use the Interlux Surfacing Putty is because I have it in stock in my paint locker for high-quality topside finishing jobs on concours level classic wooden yachts, but, while coating materials were never cheap, I see where the darn stuff is now $54 a pint. I'd never put auto body filler on a wooden boat because a lot of it is polyester resin based, which is hygroscopic. For models that will not be exposed to the marine environment, however, that's not a consideration. I doubt I'll be buying any more Interlux at their current prices, though, unless somebody else is paying for it. There's a lot of different brands of surfacing putty out there for a quarter the price.

That said, as for using wax sticks "to emulate nails," I'll mention in passing that no wooden ship was ever built with iron nails visible anywhere. Iron nails rust like crazy. To minimize that, on larger vessels, wooden fasteners ("trunnels") were preferred. Where iron nails were used, generally on smaller craft, the nails were driven into countersunk pre-drilled holes and, after the nail was set, the countersunk hole was filled with a wooden plug of the same species as the wood into which it was placed. In later times, iron boat nails were galvanized to minimize rusting. Before driving a proper iron boat nail, a length of oakum would often be wrapped around the "neck" of the nail just beneath the head to form a malleable "washer" and the wrapped nail would then be dipped in thick pine tar immediately before driving. In the boatyard, we called this "Chinese galvanizing." Far be it from me to tell anybody how to build their models, but a model with a lot of black "nail heads" peppered all over it betrays the builders lack of familiarity with the prototype.

 

[Jwallkc]

Lots of folks giving recommendations here and no one asking what you need to fill... My answer would depend on what/where you want to fill in, how big, visible etc...