My solution to tapering and also bevelling planks was to make wooden jig with stops in a groove to hold the plank while I plane it with a little Veritas block plane. Worked well for me...
HMS Jalouse - Caldercraft by Ted
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Planking coming along pretty good despite wild variances in thickness. This is mostly solved by clamping current and previous planks between the frames. Show in previous entry. Had my first tear out. This is my second attempt at First layer of double planking. Also did single layer planking on one side of the Bluenose. I could use some suggestions on what to use a a filler for low spots. The lightweight stuff I used last time didn't like acrylic paint.
I do the same with a similar jig Phil and those miniature Veritas block planes are extremely useful.
Ted, I found a wood filler at my local Woodcrafft store and have have really good results with it. It stays really moist in its container, dries quickly and sands easily. And it takes acrylics well too. I found it just now on Amazon. (I think its a product from Australia)
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I'll order some right now. Thanks
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Almost one third done on the first layer of planking 
I support what Phil says, great filler.
Filler
Go to your pharmacy store and ask for 3 ml syringe with a 1 1/2" x 1.2 mm needle. Those cost me a buck apiece so I bought 5. Using a water solubabale glue makes hot water cleaning periodicall of both the needle cover and the needle fairly simple to be used over and over. I did grind the point...
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Here's the problem I m having. The next plank doesn't want to lie flat on the frame if put upright to the frame shown is the position where it lies flat.do I try to wrap the plank upward to continue current layout or so I add Steelers etc 
Perhaps the toughest area to plank for a lot of modelers including myself is a short radius rounded bow. You might try using shorter planks say from the stem post to the 3rd or fourth bay, be sure to alternate lengths.
I use Elmers wood filler and like it. It takes the acrylic paint well.
Rob
Rob
For the most part you cannot edge bend planks at the bow without them lifting. The best way is to spile the planks. A very close second, after they are tapered in width is to pre-shape around a form using water and/or heat. I have done this at room temperature, but it takes a few hours on a hot day so using a hot air gun reduces the time to a few minutes. You have probably seen these methods posted here at SoS including photos and videos. The best video that I have seen is probably Chuck Passaro's four part video or variations of his methods. If the plank is spiled or otherwise properly pre-formed, no nails or clamps are needed. Finger pressure for a minute or so with PVA, or even less time if you like CA glue, is all that is needed.
Allan
The photo below shows a wet plank that was bent to the curve needed and held flat with clamps. The heating was with a soldering iron, but I have since gone to a cheap industrial hot air gun from a local hardware store with is easier to control and is faster.
You can see in the below that the wood is nearly dry compared to the first photo. Once dry the clamps are removed and the plank will hold its shape.
I bend in the other axis is easy to do with a hot iron, plank bender, or jig and hot air gun.
Allan
The photo below shows a wet plank that was bent to the curve needed and held flat with clamps. The heating was with a soldering iron, but I have since gone to a cheap industrial hot air gun from a local hardware store with is easier to control and is faster.
You can see in the below that the wood is nearly dry compared to the first photo. Once dry the clamps are removed and the plank will hold its shape.
I bend in the other axis is easy to do with a hot iron, plank bender, or jig and hot air gun.
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Ted! I used to use bees wax. I don't any more because of the dust problem and because I always go with aftermarket rope at this point.
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Ted, if you ever need to make your own eyebolts again, get some 28 and 24 gauge annealed steel wire. It's already black and will save you a step or two.
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I accomplish edge bending on a pin board after steaming the stock. (soaking in hot water works too)
I used to do that as well, but I would get little dents in the edge that were visible, even with Castello and other tight grained hardwood.
Is this ever a problem for you Phil?
Thanks
Allan
Yep. But I plan for it and use a rotary drum on a Dremel to sand the edges down to my marks. Because I steam my planks, they bend easily though....