Part 7.
Returning to completing work on the removable section once that was done I could start on planking.
After adding some keel doublers, fairing the frame’s checking progress with a fairing batten until I was happy that my planking would sit flat on the frame’s and into the rabbet.
From Tree to Sea tells me that LT 100 had 22 strakes on each side of the hull. Following Harold Underhill’s instructions to work out the run of planks I ran 3 temporary battens starting around mid ships on the turn of the bulge on each side of the hull to divide it into 4 areas, the other two battens halving the area left.
The objective is to get these battens to sit flat on the frame doing this without bending up or down pull them around the hull so they sit nicely, a fair bit of fiddling around is required, adjusting looking from different angles until you are happy with there appearance, then walk away for a while come back and check again!
I ended up changing the run of these battens several times, ending up using a red pencil to mark the final run because there were too many pencil marks! Once these 4 areas had been marked out accurate measurements were taken along the circumference of the frames.
Two of the areas would have 6 strakes each, with the other two areas having 5 strakes. Proportional dividers were used to divide these areas to give the plank width at each frame.
Before going any farther a “butt diagram” was worked out to find where the plank ends would fall, as it turned out this was a very handy thing to have.
I made a plank holding clamp that made it easier for me to hold and trim down planks.
I also made a steaming apparatus, an old electric kettle being the steam source a length of galvanised down pipe with a “T” put into it at one end and a piece of mesh bent to form a shelf for planks to lay on while being steamed.
I intended to plank this model in a fashion similar to the real boat, for the most part I think I have achieved this.
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Chers,
Stephen.
