YQ Bluenose Ted R

Well Ted the smallest blocks I used were 4.5mm. Personally, I loathe anything smaller than that. I have used 2.5mm for canon rigging on my Vasa.
 
I used blocks varying in size from 3 to 5mm; didn't dare to go any smaller. For the deadeyes I used 4 and 5mm, requiring custom made hoops around the deadeyes
 
I purchased a can of Minwax Polyurethane Matte and will start applying it as a finish coat on the hull. I'm hoping it gives the finish I'm looking for.
Best regards
Ted
 
Can someone tell me what size blocks the used.
Hi Ted
I cannot speak for Bluenose in particular, but all the block sizes and where they were used along with respective line sizes for the various size blocks are listed in Chappelle's The American Fishing Schooners pages 345-347 for Columbia which was similar in size to Bluenose. The block shell sizes ranged from about 6 inches to 14 inches and were internally stropped. Please feel free to PM me if you need a bit more information.
Allan
 
Can someone tell me what size blocks the used.
Hi Ted
I cannot speak for Bluenose in particular, but all the block sizes and where they were used along with respective line sizes for the various size blocks are listed in Chappelle's The American Fishing Schooners pages 345-347 for Columbia which was similar in size to Bluenose. The block shell sizes ranged from about 6 inches to 14 inches and were internally stropped. Please feel free to PM me if you need a bit more information.
Allan
There is already a lot of information on the --> Bluenose Main support Page <--
In that chapter I made this post with a excel file with all the rope and block sizes -->
Rigging and Block Measurements by Jenson, Lankford and Chapelle <--
If you wil use it, also read the post #13 for some adjustments in the file. I have related the original sizes to 1:64 and 1:72, im mm and inch.
I think it's to specific for Ted. So I
recommend only blocks of 3mm/1,2", 4mm/1.6" and 5mm/2". If 3mm is too small, then go for only 4mm and 5mm.
Regards, Peter
 
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I think it's too specific for Ted. So I recommend only blocks of 3mm/1,2", 4mm/1.6" and 5mm/2".
Not only too specific for Ted... I also reduced the number of various diameter blocks to the three you mentioned.
And in retrospect, it's not "authentic" and I might have been able to pull it off, but looking at the completed model, only using the 3, 4 and 5mm blocks, the simplification does not impair the overall image.
Using all the different block dimensions is reserved for the real gifted modellers.
 
There is already a lot of information on the --> Bluenose Main support Page <--
In that chapter I made this post with a excel file with all the rope and block sizes -->
Rigging and Block Measurements by Jenson, Lankford and Chapelle <--
If you wil use it, also read the post #13 for some adjustments in the file. I have related the original sizes to 1:64 and 1:72, im mm and inch.
I think it's to specific for Ted. So I
recommend only blocks of 3mm/1,2", 4mm/1.6" and 5mm/2". If 3mm is too small, then go for only 4mm and 5mm.
Regards, Pete
 
Hi Ted
I cannot speak for Bluenose in particular, but all the block sizes and where they were used along with respective line sizes for the various size blocks are listed in Chappelle's The American Fishing Schooners pages 345-347 for Columbia which was similar in size to Bluenose. The block shell sizes ranged from about 6 inches to 14 inches and were internally stropped. Please feel free to PM me if you need a bit more information.
Allan
Thank you for your response.
I'm going to go with the dimensions provided by Daniel. I'm keeping it simple using only three sizes.
Best regards
Ted
 
This is what was provided in the kit. Pieces of wood cut in the basic shape of blocks.
No holes were drilled in the blocks.
Did your blocks come the same way.
Best regards
Ted IMG20240910033225.jpgIMG20240910033203.jpg
 
Thank you for your response.
I'm going to go with the dimensions provided by Daniel. I'm keeping it simple using only three sizes.
Best regards
Ted
It might be helpful for you to mark all the block and rope sizes you intend to use on the YQ-drawings. At least, that helped me through a lot of issues, amongst others not ordering too much or too few blocks or the wrong size of blocks and ropes.
One of the things I found out building a model, is that planning in advance is a requirement, not nice-to-have.
It's a little bit like flying, you have to stay ahead of your plane by at least five minutes and just having a plan A doesn't suffice; one needs a plan B as well.
 
The provided blocks require work above my abilities.
Hi Ted
Don't sell yourself short. Maybe give this a try on one block to see how it goes.
To make them look like internally stropped blocks it may just be a matter of drilling four holes and inserting a bit of copper wire to form the strop. Copper can be blackened after it is inserted into the blocks with diluted liver of sulfur with a small brush and will not stain the wood. It really is not difficult to make these holes and add the copper strop at the top of the block and the axle. I am guessing the groove in the top and the bottom of the blocks in your photos are for an external rope strop which was used on much older ships but not on these schooners. This is all just one more option, go with what makes you happy.
Allan
1725994216829.png
 
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