YQ Bluenose Ted R

Daniel20 said:
Ted, all of us whom you follow show how we did this in detail within our build logs. I encourage you to do your own research. Once you have done that and still cannot find the result you're looking for, then ask for help. I went back through my build log (researched) and found this post.

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I apologize, I just frustrated. I'll take a few days to research this
 
Daniel20 said:
Ted, all of us whom you follow show how we did this in detail within our build logs. I encourage you to do your own research. Once you have done that and still cannot find the result you're looking for, then ask for help. I went back through my build log (researched) and found this post.

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I've been studying the photo you sent me. I'm seeing a lot of parts that aren't on the plans. You always take that extra step.
I've already started taking my booms apart to get it corrected.
Thank you for your patience and being honest when I fall short of acceptable.
Best regards
Ps- what gauge solid wire did you use on the block stropping.
 
Ted Robinson said:
I've been studying the photo you sent me. I'm seeing a lot of parts that aren't on the plans. You always take that extra step.
I've already started taking my booms apart to get it corrected.
Thank you for your patience and being honest when I fall short of acceptable.
Best regards
Ps- what gauge solid wire did you use on the block stropping.
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Ted, before ripping apart the work you did (and when you want to build iaw the YQ plans), maybe it's an idea to check @Dean62 's Bluenose build. If memory serves me correctly his rigging is very close to the YQ-plans. I also think a few of the early completed models were in line with these plans. Maybe worth checking.
 
Ted Robinson said:
Ps- what gauge solid wire did you use on the block stropping.
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Hi Ted, I used 24 ga. wire I bought at Hobby Lobby. But Johan's @RDN1954 suggestion is an excellent one because I rigged my ship to accommodate sails which added a lot of rigging, blocks, and tackle. The reason I used wire block stropping was it more closely represented the Bluenose's blocks which were internally stropped with black steel. See photo. The previous ships I built I stropped all the blocks with rope that I made on a rope making machine. The BN's full-size plans 8-4 show how to do this if you're interested. Use @Dean62 for the best Bluenose 'per plan' build.

1729426730719.png

I got this picture from researching the Bluenose Forums support page which a fella named Rich @PT-2 posted.
 
RDN1954 said:
Ted, before ripping apart the work you did (and when you want to build iaw the YQ plans), maybe it's an idea to check @Dean62 's Bluenose build. If memory serves me correctly his rigging is very close to the YQ-plans. I also think a few of the early completed models were in line with these plans. Maybe worth checking.
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Thank you I will check them.
Best regards
Ted
 
Daniel20 said:
Hi Ted, I used 24 ga. wire I bought at Hobby Lobby. But Johan's @RDN1954 suggestion is an excellent one because I rigged my ship to accommodate sails which added a lot of rigging, blocks, and tackle. The reason I used wire block stropping was it more closely represented the Bluenose's blocks which were internally stropped with black steel. See photo. The previous ships I built I stropped all the blocks with rope that I made on a rope making machine. The BN's full-size plans 8-4 show how to do this if you're interested. Use @Dean62 for the best Bluenose 'per plan' build.

View attachment 478917

I got this picture from researching the Bluenose Forums support page which a fella named Rich @PT-2 posted.
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Thank you. That's two votes for Dean62. I'll definitely study his build log.
Best regards
Ted
 
RDN1954 said:
Ted, before ripping apart the work you did (and when you want to build iaw the YQ plans), maybe it's an idea to check @Dean62 's Bluenose build. If memory serves me correctly his rigging is very close to the YQ-plans. I also think a few of the early completed models were in line with these plans. Maybe worth checking.
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Dean also used the MS/Lanford drawings for his rigging.
Regards, Peter
 
Ted Robinson said:
Thank you I will check them.
Best regards
Ted
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Probably wrote this somewhere and sometime before, but it's imperative to select one set of standing and running rigging drawings and stay with that set.
Start looking left and right to other interpretations and you're in for big trouble.
 
RDN1954 said:
Probably wrote this somewhere and sometime before, but it's imperative to select one set of standing and running rigging drawings and stay with that set.
Start looking left and right to other interpretations and you're in for big trouble.
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I'll keep that on mind. I've done rigging on plastic models but just used knots to secure the rigging.
 
Peter Voogt said:
No, the rigging drawings are part of a set of 6 sheets from Model Shipways:—> ModelExpo Bluenose Plans <—
It’s now on sale. But have in mind, it’s based on the original rigging of the Bluenose and much more extensive the the rigging plan from YQ.
Regards, Peter
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Thank you Peter.
I'm going the simpler plans provided in the kit.
I've done another block stropping and this is as good as I can get it with my current skill set
One photo enlarged and one actual size
Best regards
Ted
IMG20241021062905.jpgIMG20241021064339.jpg
 
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Nevermind
I can't find the part number for the pump handle. I've seen pump handles in build logs.
Do I just carve one that looks appropriate.IMG20241021090459.jpg
 
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I'm working on the lower bow sprit stays.
So far I've come up with a eyebolts to turnbuckle to swaged steel cable combination. Only dry fit at this point.
The eyebolts is one provided by the kit and represents overall scale.
I'm interested in any opinions.
Happy modeling
TedIMG20241023085546.jpgIMG20241023091424.jpg
 
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That turnbuckle looks really small, nice job.
Very hard to say how this will look in real life, the only thing to it is to fabricate all turnbuckles and start installing them, only then will you be able to judge whether or not you have the proportions right.
 
RDN1954 said:
That turnbuckle looks really small, nice job.
Very hard to say how this will look in real life, the only thing to it is to fabricate all turnbuckles and start installing them, only then will you be able to judge whether or not you have the proportions right.
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Thank you.
It seems that some method of adjustment should be represented. This looks pretty good to me. Best it realistic or not
Ted
 
1). I purchased some 0.02" stainless steel wire and annealed it. Upon wire stropping a block it was still really stiff. I'm afraid it would break an eyebolt if I tried to do the same termination.
Should I be using some other wire material?
2). Second attempt at imulating eyebolt turnbuckle with swaged steel wire for the lower bowsprit stays. I have 1/16" brass tubing for the swages. I'm having to untwist and cut back half of the wire strands so the return portion will fit into the swages. I've found this to be really difficult and am considering abandoning these materials for the stays and going with ripe. Please remember this is my first real attempt at providing realistic rigging
Happy modeling
TedIMG20241024150859.jpgIMG20241024153400.jpg
 
Ted Robinson said:
1). I purchased some 0.02" stainless steel wire and annealed it. Upon wire stropping a block it was still really stiff. I'm afraid it would break an eyebolt if I tried to do the same termination.
Should I be using some other wire material?
2). Second attempt at imulating eyebolt turnbuckle with swaged steel wire for the lower bowsprit stays. I have 1/16" brass tubing for the swages. I'm having to untwist and cut back half of the wire strands so the return portion will fit into the swages. I've found this to be really difficult and am considering abandoning these materials for the stays and going with ripe. Please remember this is my first real attempt at providing realistic rigging
Happy modeling
TedView attachment 479931View attachment 479932
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Stainless steel can be annealed but it requires very high temperatures and extended time. Why not use brass/copper? Easy-peasy...
 
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