YQ Bluenose Ted R

[Ted Robinson]

What kind of wood are you looking at for $400 / board-foot? Is this for a pre-edged, pre-finished baseplate kit with gold stanchions?

If you're looking for a small piece of lumber, our shop probably puts enough walnut/cherry/maple/poplar into the scrap bin to build 100 model ships per day. Employees then take this home and burn it for firewood. I can't get into the business of providing wood to all the members here, but if you just need a piece of nice wood of the above mentioned species that is large enough for a base, I could probably pull one out of the scrap bin and get it to you for just postage costs.

Also, if you plan on covering it with a mirror, it doesn't even have to be that nice. The tricky part will be drilling holes in the glass for the stanchions.

Btw what type of shop do you have?

 

[RussF]

Btw what type of shop do you have?

I manage the I.T. for a furniture manufacturer. We make high end wooden office furniture. Most of the flat surfaces are veneer over MDF or flake (particle board), but we use a lot of solid wood for table edges and other things. This bin was emptied about 2:00 pm yesterday - it's 6:45 am now - all walnut so far, but we use different species - mostly domestic, though. This bin is filled at least weekly, sometimes more, depending on the jobs we are doing.

 

[Ted Robinson]

I'm trying to drill a hole in the mirror using the small diamond coated burrs I have. It's take me 20-30 minutes to get half way through. I've been cautioned about overheating and cracking.
Don't know if I should go to Home Depot and purchase a bit.

 

[Peter Voogt]

I'm trying to drill a hole in the mirror using the small diamond coated burrs I have. It's take me 20-30 minutes to get half way through. I've been cautioned about overheating and cracking.
Don't know if I should go to Home Depot and purchase a bit.
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Hi Ted. To drill in glass you need to cool the drill/burr.
Make a little dam with clay around the intended hole and fill it with e.g. spirit of alcohol.
Pay attention to 2 things when you have just got through. That the drill does not bite. Then apply almost no more pressure or enlarge the hole with a file. And of course that the liquid flows away through the hole.
PS: I hope your mirror is supported completely flat under the hole. I can see a hollow in your cutting mat now. Especially when you are almost through it, the glass must be completely tension-free.
Regards, Peter

 

[Ted Robinson]

Hi Ted. To drill in glass you need to cool the drill/burr.
Make a little dam with clay around the intended hole and fill it with e.g. spirit of alcohol.
Pay attention to 2 things when you have just got through. That the drill does not bite. Then apply almost no more pressure or enlarge the hole with a file. And of course that the liquid flows away through the hole.
PS: I hope your mirror is supported completely flat under the hole. I can see a hollow in your cutting mat now. Especially when you are almost through it, the glass must be completely tension-free.
Regards, Peter

Thank you. I'll build a dam around the hole.

 

[Ted Robinson]

I was going to veneer the base with Walnut strips but the chamfering is not even enough. I removed the veneer and will paint the bas edges and mirror the top.
I added little feet to make up for the warping in the base.
I think this will be nice when I finish