Kit review BLUENOSE SCHOONER POF MODEL -1:72 – YuanQing Models

Heinrich

I have been using PayPal since 2004. And i buy a LOT and also sell from time to time using PayPal.

Unless the online web site of the developer have a system to buy that redirect you to PayPal, like ZHL Model has, normally the seller has to send a "PayPal bill". The seller send the bill to the "PayPal email address of the buyer". Shipping and any other cost is included. The buyer open the bill link that will take the buyer to PayPal.... and pays.

Sorry I am writing all this. I am sure you know well the system. But I read there could be potential buyers that are not used to it .

I have never received a "link to PayPal" as you mentioned. Unless is something I am not used to see in USA. I always received a PayPal bill. To buy or to pay for services.

Another tip. This is a public forum and posting a link I am not sure how secure it will be. I will be afraid to pay opening a link.

My 2 cents. I almost do 90% of all my online buys using PayPal.

Cheers
Daniel
PS: Also be aware that sometime only certified members (I think that is the way PayPal call them) can buy. Depends on the setup, I belive from the seller side. Those members have a bank account linked to PayPal and are certified (if that is the term). Many sellers will not sell unless you are one of those members. That is for the seller protection. Also for the buyer too.

PS 2 : I have also paid many time just using the PayPal email of the seller.

You get a bill and the seller PayPal email. You go to your account and do a payment (send money) to the seller email that is registered in PayPal. Seller pays a fee fir this. Not buyer. And buyer gets PayPal protection.

Cheers !!
 
Last edited:
Rich will be using the Masonic Square and Compass in recognition of the Masonic membership that Angus Walters had later in his life and is standing second from left in that photo. Just a builder's choice and everyone should follow their own tack. (PT-2) Rich
Thank you Rich! I knew I did not have even to ask you! :D
 
Good morning from Nantong, China gentlemen. After the review, I had to catch some shut-eye before another day in front of class and the PC. I will reply to each and every person who posted and answer all questions in detail as they come along. I will do so in what I think is a logical order and sequence of events. Of course, I should have posted pictures of the completed model as @Dematosdg asked, but I was just too tired. So without further ado here goes: These pictures are supplied by YuanQing Models and are the ones they used in the listing of their kit on Taobao.

View attachment 192449

View attachment 192450

View attachment 192451

View attachment 192452

View attachment 192453

View attachment 192454

View attachment 192455

View attachment 192456

View attachment 192457

View attachment 192458
After a careful review of your examination of the kit and wonderful paintings annotated by the Bluenose ballad it stirs my heart and soul in feeling the strain of the lines and sails trying to put myself in perspective at the wheel looking windward and forward along such a long and narrow greyhound of the Atlantic whether fishing or racing. It is a vision that I cannot get out of my mind and anticipation of this model so different than my present MS2130 but enhancing it from another build perspective. I only hope that with my early and growing skills I will be able to do it justice. Thank you. Rich (PT-2) The wordy philosophical crew member.
 
PS 2 : I have also payed many time just using the PayPal email of the seller.

You get a bill and the seller PayPal email. You go to your account and do a payment (send money) to the seller email that is registered in PayPal. Seller pays a fee fir this. Not buyer. And buyer gets PayPal protection.

Cheers !!
Thank you very much for your contribution, Daniel. The payment process will be made clear and explained in detail when I make the announcement. As I said to Rich, I first need to sort out the kind of groundwork detail that we are doing right now. :)
 
After a careful review of your examination of the kit and wonderful paintings annotated by the Bluenose ballad it stirs my heart and soul in feeling the strain of the lines and sails trying to put myself in perspective at the wheel looking windward and forward along such a long and narrow greyhound of the Atlantic whether fishing or racing. It is a vision that I cannot get out of my mind and anticipation of this model so different than my present MS2130 but enhancing it from another build perspective. I only hope that with my early and growing skills I will be able to do it justice. Thank you. Rich (PT-2) The wordy philosophical crew member.
Rich I love philosophical. That is why I have thrown this review over a completely different tack. I am very glad to hear that it has inspired you!
 
Heinrich,
A superbly well done report, I could jest about hear the music in the background. I hope I speak for all the members, but I for one thank you for all the effort and time supporting this project.

Jim
Oh, I really like that quotation regarding adjusting our sails. . . like bamboo bending in the wind and water flowing around rocks but moving onwards. Rich (PT-2)
 
Hello Heinrich, I personally do not like decals especially on such a fine ship as the Bluenose, they look cheep and out of place, reminding me of those cheep plastic models I used to build when I was a kid., no they do not fit in at all. I would much prefer single wooden letters, cut with a laser that we could highlight or better still on one of those CNC 3D machines. If this is not possible single vinyl letter in white or gold could do the trick. I for one can not see me applying a decal across the stern, this I would not use.
Regards Lawrence
 
I too would vote for option #2, with the Masonic symbol.
Given the issues described with decals, is some sort of prefab stencil a realistic solution for this? I've never stenciled or even painted letters on a ship yet, so I'm just spitballing ideas, and would love to hear how more experienced modelers would approach this.
 
I too would vote for option #2, with the Masonic symbol.
Given the issues described with decals, is some sort of prefab stencil a realistic solution for this? I've never stenciled or even painted letters on a ship yet, so I'm just spitballing ideas, and would love to hear how more experienced modelers would approach this.
From the good critique of how to get the transom name onto the transom between the main and monkey rails, from the old photos it appears as it was consistently painted and not carved in or with raised letters. It is hard for me to envision how to tightly wrap and set a stencil there to avoid paint bleed-out underneath. It seems that we are still looking for a good solution unless we can shrink a sign painter who is skilled in lettering and emblems. A related problem remains for the bow name but on that surface it seems more easily solved. Still considering the options and probably a solution will emerge as the actual build is at that point of finishing. If a decal material could be used in a matt finish and not the glossy it would sit back better. Perhaps finishing this part of the hull with overcoats of a matt clear finish, or semi-gloss as the builder desires would work. Which would possibly not work with an oiled finish of the Pear wood. Other ideas?? Rich (PT-2)
 
Back
Top