I thinking about getting into milling!

O

ot1138

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But I have no idea where to start. Obviously, this would be for model ship making so I don't want to break the bank or go overboard on equipment I'll never need. But I think it would be pretty handy to be able to fabricate my own lumber and cut pieces, either manually or computer assisted.

Where should the rank beginner go to get started? Also curious if there are equipment recommendations.
 
OK TO START THE MILL I GOT WAS A VANDA-LAY INDUST. MILL FOR VARIOUS REASONS PRICE WAS ABOUT THE SAME AS PROXXON, STILL LOOKING FOR A CLASS TO TAKE TO LEARN HOW TO MILL OH BOY BEEN OVER 2 YEARS NEED A CLASS BADL, IF YOU FIND ONE LET ME KNOW. GOD BLESS STAY SAFE ALL DON
 
ot1138 said:
But I have no idea where to start. Obviously, this would be for model ship making so I don't want to break the bank or go overboard on equipment I'll never need. But I think it would be pretty handy to be able to fabricate my own lumber and cut pieces, either manually or computer assisted.

Where should the rank beginner go to get started? Also curious if there are equipment recommendations.
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You always start with purchasing the milling machine... However, if you already have a decent drill press with a coordinator table (X, Y), you can turn it to the mill. But...I would really ask yourself if you really need one? The true matter of facts is that, if you mostly building from kits without 'bashing' you don't need one!

If you still convince yourself you badly need one, and willing to mill, a good starting machine, I would personally recommend- is Proxxon MF70. It comes with everything you need to start, except end mill bits. The average cost is about $360.00~400.00 for the mill, and about $40.00 for the set of 3 end mill bits 1.0mm, 2.00mm, and 3.00mm

Small and beautiful - the accurate mill for lab, optician, jewelry, electronic, and model building projects. The stability of this machine facilitates the use of the finest cutters. Six triple slits, hardened MICROMOT steel collets are included.

Technical data:
Speed 5,000 - 20,000rpm. Table Size 7 7/8" x 2 3/4" (200 x 70mm). X-Y Travel 5 17/64" and 1 13/16" (134 and 46mm). Vertical Travel 2 3/4" (70mm). Footprint Size 5 7/64" x 8 55/64" (130 x 225mm). Height 13 25/64" (340mm). Max. Power 1/8hp (100W). Volts 110 - 120V AC, 60Hz. Weight 15.5 lb (7kg).

1614303736299.png

The mill comes with an X, Y table, set of holding clamps, collets, and ready for action. I didn't find youtube lessons dedicated to MF70 except for the one below.


Once you learn and happy, it can be addictive, and your spending spree will never end: precision vise, Dividing Attachment, and the list goes on...and on... So...think twice; you have been warned. :p
 
I am a milling-fetishist and i bought yesterday my 4th. milling machine. And..... i use every machine of my park.
The point is there is no all in wonder machine. If you want to buy a milling machine you have to know for which work,
which scale and which material ? These informations are necessary to avoid a bad buy.
The adjustment path is limited, as well the aera to fix the parts/vice. You have to keep the eyes on this.

I have the Mf 70 as well the FF 230. Both are faboulous machines but different. I think if you have the FF230 you dont need
the Mf70. But only with the MF 70 you are very limitated. The machine is only for little and fine works and you loose a lot of possibilities
to mill bigger parts.
The compatible proxxon-vices on the FF230 are too small for bigger parts. If you build in 1/36, 1/48 you can´t tighten the parts well.
I modified the FF230 with my Röhm-vice. Looks very strange but this combination works very very well.
Only to give some ideas .....


1614324637835.png
1614325105077.png
 
Olivers Historic Shipyard said:
I am a milling-fetishist and i bought yesterday my 4th. milling machine. And..... i use every machine of my park.
The point is there is no all in wonder machine. If you want to buy a milling machine you have to know for which work,
which scale and which material ? These informations are necessary to avoid a bad buy.
The adjustment path is limited, as well the aera to fix the parts/vice. You have to keep the eyes on this.

I have the Mf 70 as well the FF 230. Both are faboulous machines but different. I think if you have the FF230 you dont need
the Mf70. But only with the MF 70 you are very limitated. The machine is only for little and fine works and you loose a lot of possibilities
to mill bigger parts.
The compatible proxxon-vices on the FF230 are too small for bigger parts. If you build in 1/36, 1/48 you can´t tighten the parts well.
I modified the FF230 with my Röhm-vice. Looks very strange but this combination works very very well.
Only to give some ideas .....


View attachment 216471
View attachment 216478
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Now we know what you have bought by yourself - your birthday present
Now you have two FF230 ? Correct?
and the one (on the right side of the 2.nd photo) is also a Proxxon, or?
 
Ja Uwe. I bought a second FF to mill longer parts. ROTF Thumbs-Up

Behind is my first millingmachine. A combo between various different parts because i needed as well a little bigger machine. The idea was not so good. It works but the presicion.....naja..... What i have learned from this project is that you can´t do everything with one machine. I use the machine as backup for bigger parts and as holder for my heatgun.

IMG_20180913_235813.jpg

My birthdaypresent ist this little tiny CNC-Machine. :cool:

1614328748294.png
 
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OK....to mill lumber and to mill parts require different machinery. Milling lumber into strips requires a saw or saws. Milling parts on a milling machine will require a bit of study. For wood, start with a woodshop. Tablesaw, bandsaw, maybe even a jointer and planer. Milling strips for planking will take some dedicated tools and jigs. Running out and buying a mill may not be the solution you're looking for. There things like end mills, hold downs, rotary tables, machinist's vise, taps, dies, calipers, micrometers and so forth. There are some books on homeshop machining but it's going to cost you.
 
There are some books on homeshop machining but it's going to cost you.
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And like a sign from heaven, I just discovered I had an unredeemed $2000 USD gift card in my credit card account. :-)

I was also looking at the CNC route. I already have 3D printing experience and can do basic 3D modeling and that's presumably much of the learning curve.

I had no plans on planing my own wood or making strips... at least yet. But I could easily see wanting to go down the scratch built route one day. For now, I was thinking that a desktop CNC would be most useful for decorative pieces though I had been under the (possibly mistaken) impression that it might be better to start with a manual mill.

Like I said, I know very little about this. I guess I would like something that could be useful in the short term for modeling (and other odd jobs?), which would grow more useful over time as I grew my skills.

I do have a few woodworking tools already (table saw, planes, chisels) but these strike me as being far too large to be useful in this work. I see Micromark has sets of mini machines available. Tempting but their tool quality has been lacking in my experience.
 
Olivers Historic Shipyard said:
Ja Uwe. I bought a second FF to mill longer parts. ROTF Thumbs-Up

Behind is my first millingmachine. A combo between various different parts because i needed as well a little bigger machine. The idea was not so good. It works but the presicion.....naja..... What i have learned from this project is that you can´t do everything with one machine. I use the machine as backup for bigger parts and as holder for my heatgun.

View attachment 216503

My birthdaypresent ist this little tiny CNC-Machine. :cool:

View attachment 216506
Click to expand...
I'm about to get one of these. What some people to with these things is unreal. Thanks for sharing.
 
You have your work cut out for you. I've always wanted a mill and a lathe for my home shop but haven't been able to justify the cost. I have a lot of experience on Bridgeport mills, Hardinge lathes. And I do have alot of tooling. Its not reallylike 3D printing but they have one thing in common - software. A good machinist is good with CAD. I regularly mill wood in my shop. I am in the middle of building a strip cutter for veneers. I find the tablesaw, jointer and planer a great start to dimension stock. I guess its what you are happy with. I regularly resaw hardwoods on a bandsaw to 3/32" for planks too.
 
ot1138 said:
I was also looking at the CNC route.
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Hello OT1138,

CNC router is a piece of different machinery than a milling machine. They are designed for different types of jobs in mind. The only thing where they can be optionally in common is the CNC part.
Today, we have a wide range of CNC routers to suit your need and fit in the budget. But don't think you will be able to make decorative pieces the next day. This would require both bits of knowledge of the router operation as well as 3D design and software operation.
You have to make sure to choose the right tool to invest in, both a Milling machine or CNC router are expensive toys...
 
ot1138 said:
I'm curious about the difference. I thought a CNC could in theory do anything a milling machine can? Is that not the case?
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Yes, in theory, the milling machine can process part manufacturing, but it has to be a CNC milling machine (expensive, though)

The term CNC stands for 'computer numerical control', and the CNC machining definition is that it is a subtractive manufacturing process that typically employs computerized controls and machine tools to remove layers of material from a stock piece—known as the blank or workpiece—and produces a custom-designed part. In other words, CNC is nothing more than a computerized process to control manufacturing various parts.

The CNC program acts as instructions for the CNC machine; it submits machine commands dictating the tooling’s actions and movements to the machine’s integrated computer, which operates and manipulates the machine tooling. Initiating the program prompts the CNC machine to begin the CNC machining process, and the program guides the machine throughout the process as it executes the necessary machine operations to produce a custom-designed part or product.

This process is suitable for a wide range of materials, including metals, plastics, wood, glass, foam, and composites, and finds application in a variety of industries, such as CNC machining aerospace parts and lately, in hobbies. Note there is a difference between the CNC machining definition and the CNC machine definition- one is a process and the other is a machine. A CNC machine is a programmable machine that is capable of autonomously performing the operations of CNC machining.

Very good reading to understand CNC in principle

What is CNC Machining? | Definition, Processes, Components & More

An article on the CNC meaning, CNC machining process and alternatives, components and tooling of the CNC machine, and mechanical CNC machining operations.
www.thomasnet.com www.thomasnet.com
 
ot1138 said:
But I have no idea where to start. Obviously, this would be for model ship making so I don't want to break the bank or go overboard on equipment I'll never need. But I think it would be pretty handy to be able to fabricate my own lumber and cut pieces, either manually or computer assisted.

Where should the rank beginner go to get started? Also curious if there are equipment recommendations.
Click to expand...
I have been building for 50 years -until 4 Years ago, without any expensive tools. I had twoGremel ( Baterery drive, so very portable) and fix Dremel on a Borestsander. When I started it was long before Laser Cut and Dremels etc, so hard handwork Wit these Took most Builds was made. In the I had 4x thick X-knives Holder and 5 of the thin shaft, for not changing knives a few minutes. When I see, some of the more professional Tool Rooms and calculate the cost of these, I get ahead deck-1000 of € or US dollars
 

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ot1138 said:
I'm curious about the difference. I thought a CNC could in theory do anything a milling machine can? Is that not the case?
Click to expand...
I think the main difference is that in the mill the router stays in a fixed position and the workpiece is moved. In a CNC router the workpiece is fixed and the router is moved.

CNC routers are in general for lighter work and only soft material and the bit is usually rotating at very high speed. A mill is in general much stronger, can rotate also with low speed, can take deeper cuts and can mill not only soft material but also hard materials, even metal.

CNC mills are also available in the market. Often a bit heavy on the wallet though. However you can buy CNC add on for the Proxxon mill for rather small money (original proxxon CNC is more expensive than unoriginal. for instance thsi kit is low cost http://www.ideegeniali.it/shop/31-proxxon-mf70-retrofit-kit.html I do not have any experience with it myself.
There are even cheaper kit with smaller torque/ motors in the market but as far as Im' told these are pretty much useless.
Also be aware that for CNC you also have to buy several pieces of software. If you want to do something in the advanced end the software can be very expensive.
 
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