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I used an 8 mm hole punch to cut halfway through the rubber fender strip.
Now near Brighton. 36 years in Sydney and Coffs Harbour until 10 years ago
Krick Grimmershorn 1/20 scale Motor vessel built by neptune
- Thread starter neptune
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Now near Brighton. 36 years in Sydney and Coffs Harbour until 10 years ago
Thanks for the tip, what did you use to glue the fenders to the hull,
best regards john.
This is an area that I had been thinking about, they ask you to build a frame sitting under the deck,
but that means when you fit the hatch, the hatch is sitting flush with the deck, so if at the pond any
water gets in this area there is nothing to stop it getting into the hull, well that is what it looks like
to me, so using builders license i built another frame that is glued on the deck as in the pic,
a clearer view, you can still access the rudder tube for fitting the steering gear,
then i made a hatch cover from some left over ply, gluing an edge on three sides so it
can slide in place over the frame work,
the hatch slid in place, just a nice tight fit but slides on and off OK,
best regards John,
.
I took the towing gear that I had already assembled cut the dowell down to fit on top of the hatch and glued it in place,
close up view,
this means that i can now slide the rear hatch including the towing gear off the boat all in one go,
close up,
then i glued some surpport blocks at the back,
front view,
thanks for looking ,
best regards John.
- Joined
- Nov 22, 2021
- Messages
- 19
- Points
- 48
I masked an 8mm line so the would be no residue and then I used uhu general.purpose glue for the long strip and a touch of super glue for each short upright. Each side separately with the hull on its side
- Joined
- Nov 22, 2021
- Messages
- 19
- Points
- 48
Top idea. I feel a hatch cover modification coming on!
showing the ports after i enlarged the holes, these are not yet fixed in place,
I have three sizes of sanding drum and I progressively used the different sizes till the ports fit
I was lucky that the final drum was just under the port size,
thank you for looking in,
best regards john,
After the first coat of cream, i know it is supposed to be white, but I think that is to stark a colour, always have liked the combination of cream, dark green for the decks and black for the hull, ever since I built my first tug back in 1980, The RMAS Forcefull, see pics below,
Two coats of cream,
two coats of dark green, have to matt it down a bit, it looks a bit bright but that is just the flash,
and a pic showing the superstructure sitting in place,
best regards John,
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I couldn't find any parts in the kit for supporting the bulwark rails, so i decided to make some fairly simplistic ones,
The Admiral had a spare Stainless Steel oven rack so I used that, I had used this type of thing before on my Imarra
tug,
I drilled through the bulwark rail and down into the deck and then CA super glued the stanchion in place,
I made up a very easy jig, with a hole drilled through it for where the stanchion would go into the deck
I placed the stanchion in place and down into the hole in the jig and moved the jig till the stanchion looked vertical,
then I held the jig tight with one hand and drilled down into the deck,
all the after stanchions in place,
another view, just a word of caution if your are building this model, when i started cutting out the wash ports etc, I started
measuring from the bow to the stern on one side, then when I rounded the stern I started measuring from the stern
which shouldn't have made any difference, after cutting out a couple of wash ports things didn't look right and thats
when I found out the plan is not the same size as the model, its approx 2inches shorter, Ive managed to fudge it a
bit and it doesn't look too bad, so just be careful,
thanks for looking in,
best regards john,
For the bollards they just show the round part attached to the deck, which is probably OK on the original, but on
the model I think they would be easily broken as the deck is very thin ply, so I opted to make a base plate for them
with a bridging piece to hold them more securely, this shows the base plate and the four bollards drilled out ready
for assembly with holes on the corner for a small copper bolt to secure them to the deck, along with Super glue,
shows the method of construction,
approx where they will be fixed, you can see the bridging piece glued in place,
drilling out for the securing pins that go through the top of the bollards,
all six bollards, they still have to have the pins trimmed to size and also have the bridging pieces filed to shape,
the four single bollards are secured to the top of the bulwark rails and will have a pin going through the deck,
and a view of the superstructure, it now has had a priming coat and two brushed coats of cream and one coat of
sprayed cream, needs a good rub down and another couple of sprayed coats of cream,
best regards john.
This model is larger than I previously conceived but you hand in the photo clarified that. She is getting closer to "sea trials"!!! RIch
The bollards after one coat of matt black,
The deck after the final coating, and also the bulwarks with the first coat of black, I will have to make a padded cradle now to sit her in,
best regards john.
I am really interested in seeing this boat to the finish! It is looking great! Rich
Thank you Rich, I shall Endeavour to Endeavour,
Best regards John,
Great Pun
Thank you Fiddlewood for reminding me about the rubbing strips on the hull, this is what is supplied in the kit, a half round section,
and a view of the outside of the half round strip,
according to the plans the long piece goes 14mm below the base of the bulwarks, I was lucky and had some masking tape that was 14mm wide, so i ran a strip along the hull and used it as a guide for attaching the strip, i used CA Super Glue,
close up view,
I didn't have a hole punch big enough to do it the way Fiddlewood did, so after attaching the long strip i used a drum sander to round off the end of the short downward fenders so that they would sit up against the long one,
another view,
first one attached with super Glue,
Port side done,
I have now come up with another problem, they give you a U shaped length of rubber to go around the lower part of the bulwark,
But when it is put in place it comes up above the deck at the wash ports, the only thing I can think of is to attach and cut away the area that is where the wash ports are, or just leave it off altogether, any thoughts welcome,
best regards john,
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Hi John,
Adding the strip would provide a lot of protection to the hull.
Have you had a look at other finished models, I had a quick look on the net and found it hard to see from the photos.
Great progress.
Cheers,
Stephen.
Adding the strip would provide a lot of protection to the hull.
Have you had a look at other finished models, I had a quick look on the net and found it hard to see from the photos.
Great progress.
Cheers,
Stephen.
Thanks Steve, I will have to have a browse online and see what's there,Hi John,
Adding the strip would provide a lot of protection to the hull.
Have you had a look at other finished models, I had a quick look on the net and found it hard to see from the photos.
Great progress.
Cheers,
Stephen.
Best regards John,