Bluenose by Liebre

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After several failed attempts to attach the Futtocks (I think that's what those rods are called, correct me if this is not the case) made of brass, which resulted in some damage, I let everything rest for a while.

The brass parts with the rods gave too much tension.

Last few days there was an oven in the workshop due to the summer weather, and paint spraying was parked for a while.

I thought again about how to solve this differently (sometimes it helps to leave it alone for a while until the Eureka moment comes)

The damage suffered has been removed and the Futtocks reattached (I call it the redo show nowadays)

I had to make the mast band a little wider and update everything again.

I will do the other mast in the same way.

Looking again at the "failed" brass parts, this gave me an idea to use the smaller one for Jumbo jib stay bail on the deck near the bowsprit.

I did not find the solution of the supplied plans an acceptable solution,the deck is still easily accessible so let's see what else needs to be done and can be done.

Regards Henk

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Looking again at the "failed" brass parts, this gave me an idea to use the smaller one for Jumbo jib stay bail on the deck near the bowsprit.

I did not find the solution of the supplied plans an acceptable solution,the deck is still easily accessible so let's see what else needs to be done and can be done.
Thinking back, I was very late addressing this detail and I had to drill the holes in the deck with the bowsprit in place. That was the easy part. What really gave me a full sized headache was to install the bail. I attached the two hooks to the bail (having provided two hooks to the bail as well, not conforming to the MS plans) and fiddled as long as was needed to get the hooks into the pre-drilled holes. It took me forever...
 
View attachment 465349

After several failed attempts to attach the Futtocks (I think that's what those rods are called, correct me if this is not the case) made of brass, which resulted in some damage, I let everything rest for a while.

The brass parts with the rods gave too much tension.

Last few days there was an oven in the workshop due to the summer weather, and paint spraying was parked for a while.

I thought again about how to solve this differently (sometimes it helps to leave it alone for a while until the Eureka moment comes)

The damage suffered has been removed and the Futtocks reattached (I call it the redo show nowadays)

I had to make the mast band a little wider and update everything again.

I will do the other mast in the same way.

Looking again at the "failed" brass parts, this gave me an idea to use the smaller one for Jumbo jib stay bail on the deck near the bowsprit.

I did not find the solution of the supplied plans an acceptable solution,the deck is still easily accessible so let's see what else needs to be done and can be done.

Regards Henk

View attachment 465341

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Nice to see that you restarted the build of your BN, Henk. Like Johan wrote, a lot of fiddling to get the bail in place. I fitted 2 eyepins to the eyes of the bail.
Regards, Peter
 
Henk,
Your model looks terrific and the attention to detail is great!. Hard to tell from the first photo in post #262 but are the blocks externally stropped with rope? The drawing you posted in #262 shows internally stropped blocks as is appropriate. Internally stropped block are available with at least one aftermarket supplier but it is in the USA. Making them on your own is relatively easy, albeit a little time consuming. Then again, hobbies have no time schedules :)
Single, double, and triple homemade internally stropped blocks resting on a 120 year old real double one.
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Your model looks terrific and the attention to detail is great
Hello Allan,

Thanks for the compliment, and for sharing the photo.

Lots of inspiration and learned a lot from my other Dutch BN builders here on this forum.

Today I looked back where I left off and looked up stuff to pick things up again.

To my shame I only saw your message today, I have been busy with other things lately and not always new messages come through to my email.

Blocks, rigging etc. is not “My cup of tea” as they call it.

I have no technical background and am not familiar with ship terms and have never built a ship with rigging before.

I had not come across the terms double and single stropped blocks before and just looked this up.

To answer your question.

Attached are the strops on the blocks as they are now.

Given the scale, my 50 Cents chosen solution.

BTW, based on the photo, I am curious, are you currently building a ship?


Regards
Henk

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BTW, based on the photo, I am curious, are you currently building a ship?
Hello Henk,
Yes I am working on a model at this time but the blocks in the photo I posted above were for a schooner model and my current project is for Litchfield (50) 1695. As the model is probably about half complete I started a retro build log on her recently here at SoS if you are interested in checking it out.
https://shipsofscale.com/sosforums/threads/hms-litchfield-48-1695-1-64-scale.15460/
Allan
 
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Hello Allan,

Thanks for the compliment, and for sharing the photo.

Lots of inspiration and learned a lot from my other Dutch BN builders here on this forum.

Today I looked back where I left off and looked up stuff to pick things up again.

To my shame I only saw your message today, I have been busy with other things lately and not always new messages come through to my email.

Blocks, rigging etc. is not “My cup of tea” as they call it.

I have no technical background and am not familiar with ship terms and have never built a ship with rigging before.

I had not come across the terms double and single stropped blocks before and just looked this up.

To answer your question.

Attached are the strops on the blocks as they are now.

Given the scale, my 50 Cents chosen solution.

BTW, based on the photo, I am curious, are you currently building a ship?


Regards
Henk

View attachment 477312
Hey Henk, I think we have/had a fellowmember who was mentioning internally stopped blocks. Since our Bluenoses have block sizes, ranging from approximately 2,5mm to 6mm, I didn't even bother. Way too small for my sausage resembling appendages, sometimes being referred to as fingers, plus I think one should be a watchmaker to accomplish selfmade internally stropped blocks.
 
Here is my 50 cent solution to post #270

The rigging is back on course

Masts are loose and standing rigging is definitely fastened and a lot of attention has been paid to making sure they are in the right position and can still be finally adjusted

Booms and gaffs are in place

Because I let go of YuanQing's plans, I followed the Lankford plans (but without sails)

Because the drawings are based on sails, it took me quite some time to understand these plans, and which blocks apply there and which do not, to show them under sails

Other plans, other changes and other insights, I removed all 3 mm blocks that were used and replaced them with 4, 4.5 and 5 mm

For the tackles for the main mast among other things I kept 3 mm I thought about the order in which I am going to attach the rigging
, I left a littlebit to get the line tight

Today I had support from Peter Voogt
Thanks for this Peter

I have just applied the solution you suggested, and with comparison from the earlier photos I sent you, you can see that this is now a considerable improvement.
The lines are all still loose and not yet definitively attached.
IMG_2766.JPGIMG_2768.JPG
This gives a good starting position to continue on this path.
For those who are not familiar with the Lankford plans, here is an impression.
Regards
Henk

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tek3.jpg

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Here is my 50 cent solution to post #270

The rigging is back on course

Masts are loose and standing rigging is definitely fastened and a lot of attention has been paid to making sure they are in the right position and can still be finally adjusted

Booms and gaffs are in place

Because I let go of YuanQing's plans, I followed the Lankford plans (but without sails)

Because the drawings are based on sails, it took me quite some time to understand these plans, and which blocks apply there and which do not, to show them under sails

Other plans, other changes and other insights, I removed all 3 mm blocks that were used and replaced them with 4, 4.5 and 5 mm

For the tackles for the main mast among other things I kept 3 mm I thought about the order in which I am going to attach the rigging
, I left a littlebit to get the line tight

Today I had support from Peter Voogt
Thanks for this Peter

I have just applied the solution you suggested, and with comparison from the earlier photos I sent you, you can see that this is now a considerable improvement.
The lines are all still loose and not yet definitively attached.
View attachment 517053View attachment 517054
This gives a good starting position to continue on this path.
For those who are not familiar with the Lankford plans, here is an impression.
Regards
Henk

View attachment 517055

View attachment 517057

View attachment 517058
I was pleased to help you with some advice, Henk. And it is clear that you are on the right track.
Think about the ‘sheer pole’ on top of the upper deadeyes. That rod helps your to keep those upper deadeyes in the right position:
IMG_4550.jpeg
Regards, Peter
 
Hey Henk,
Good to see you're working your way through the rigging. All those ropes and blocks are overwhelming, confusing ánd complicated. Very wise to take your time to understand what you're dealing with and to seek expert advice when needed.
Johan
 
Think about the ‘sheer pole’ on top of the upper deadeyes
Added the ''sheer line'' to my 'memory'.:)
I used the map in the picture as a second reference point.
Then I can tighten the lines between the blocks to determine the horizontal position of the ''sheer line''.
In line terms, so to speak.
We are on the same line.;)
Regards
Henk
 
Here is my 50 cent solution to post #270

The rigging is back on course

Masts are loose and standing rigging is definitely fastened and a lot of attention has been paid to making sure they are in the right position and can still be finally adjusted

Booms and gaffs are in place

Because I let go of YuanQing's plans, I followed the Lankford plans (but without sails)

Because the drawings are based on sails, it took me quite some time to understand these plans, and which blocks apply there and which do not, to show them under sails

Other plans, other changes and other insights, I removed all 3 mm blocks that were used and replaced them with 4, 4.5 and 5 mm

For the tackles for the main mast among other things I kept 3 mm I thought about the order in which I am going to attach the rigging
, I left a littlebit to get the line tight

Today I had support from Peter Voogt
Thanks for this Peter

I have just applied the solution you suggested, and with comparison from the earlier photos I sent you, you can see that this is now a considerable improvement.
The lines are all still loose and not yet definitively attached.
View attachment 517053View attachment 517054
This gives a good starting position to continue on this path.
For those who are not familiar with the Lankford plans, here is an impression.
Regards
Henk

View attachment 517055

View attachment 517057

View attachment 517058
Hi , you see that these blocks are mounted in reverse.Frank

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She’s looking good Henk, you’re approaching the finish line!
Hi Dean
This project feels a bit like running a marathon in the past.
Running in bad conditions, where at the 30km point you think
Wow, I've run 30km already, but the finish line isn't in sight.
The good news is
No matter how long it takes, the finish line is always in sight.
Henk
 
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