• LUCZORAMA SHIPWRECK SCAVENGER HUNT GIVEAWAY. 4 Weeks of Fun • 1 Legendary Prize ((OcCre’s Fram Ship)) • Global Crew Welcome!
    **VIEW THREAD HERE**

Pins for First Planking

Alan Smith said:
Polyfilla spackle is not sold as powder btw - it comes ready-mixed in tubs. Good product I have found - but remember, it air-dries to set - this isn't a plaster-based filler.
Click to expand...
That is correct. And it dries quickly too. I usually get the stuff that is pink and turns white when it dries.
 
DARIVS ARCHITECTVS said:
Chelseafan is right 100%. If you spend the time to groom and shape each plant to fit, no clamps or pins are required. It does take a lot of time and patience, however, and these are not things in great abundance with most new modelers. The results speak for themselves.
Click to expand...
This is only my third ship model so it's not constrained by experience or patience. In my first model I tried the ugly first layer, nails, spackle with a second layer of thin walnut. The end result was good but I didn't enjoy it much.
The next was my 78th scale Victory. This time I spent a lot of time getting the fairing right and the tapers good. But I was still faced with the plank twisting needed to get the bow to a compound curve. Again, we were clamping. Time consuming but a good end result.
For my third model I decided to use Chuck's method, after all, I was using his design and fabulous instructions. I can't recommend his work highly enough.
Frankly, the shaping really wasn't that time consuming. The first plank told me my measuring, tapering and fairing were all good and producing the ski-shape flat curve turned out much easier than I expected. Once I had the line I found that my fingers could massage that curve to the required shape with a very gentle steam iron touch. The travel iron is ideal. It's small and not that hot.
Also, putting a slight chamfer on the inside edge helps sit the plank tight from the get go. Very easy to eyeball.
To be clear, there is no would filler of any kind on this model, just a light sanding. It's single layer so it has to be right. Also, you're not left with wood that has holes or clamp marks on its surfaces. And the planks are secured instantly with just a tiny dab of superglue. Even Chuck said I had done a good job but it was his easy to follow technique that made for that result. I will never plank with clamps and pins again.
The pictures show the battling with the front end of Endeavour and then Victory. Lots of twisting and filler on the first layers.
And finally one layer, no filler for Confederacy.
So as this is only my third ship the learning curve was pretty straightforward.
I can dispense with about 20 planking books as a result! 20190223_222634.jpg

20180928_141402.jpg

20181005_160005.jpg

20190309_222005.jpg

20190312_162407.jpg

20190305_160351.jpg

20240927_090117.jpg

20240930_151840.jpg

20241003_090710.jpg
 
Chelseafan said:
I tell anyone go and watch Chuck Pissaro's wonderful YouTube short videos on planking accurately.
Click to expand...
Thanks for doing this. Others of us have recommended these videos as well, but it feels like preaching to the choir the majority of the time. It is not that difficult to arrive at a great job of planking without pins of any kind and few, if any, clamps if pre-shaped edge bending is used. Happily some kits are now providing spiled planks which makes the job even easier without pins and clamps and no edge bending necessary.
Allan
 
AllanKP69 said:
Thanks for doing this. Others of us have recommended these videos as well, but it feels like preaching to the choir the majority of the time. It is not that difficult to arrive at a great job of planking without pins of any kind and few, if any, clamps if pre-shaped edge bending is used. Happily some kits are now providing spiled planks which makes the job even easier without pins and clamps and no edge bending necessary.
Allan
Click to expand...
Could someone provide a link to this video on YouTube please
 
MGYSOS said:
Has anyone used 'push pins'; placed into the frame member to hold the plank in place?

View attachment 498810
Click to expand...
Have used them but care needs to be taken that you don't split the bulkheads/frames (I pre-drilled with a .8 mm bit when I used these on the Gunboat Philadelphia (which is what the instructions for that kit suggested using). Also, get the ones with the metal heads if you are going to use them; the heads of the plastic-headed ones can break off easily when pressing them in to wood.
 
Have been building models for about 4 years now and all I can say is every model has its challenges and all challenges can be met and overcome (even if you get super frustrated like I dd with my Gunboat Philadelphia build - put it away for a year and a bunch of other projects around the house [all 1:1]). The other thing I've re-learned is that there is a lot of knowledge available if you are willing to put in the time to seek it out.

Thanks to all on this site for their comments, pointers & other assistance over the years.
 
DennisP said:
Hi, I am new to this wonderful hobby and am building my first model, Polaris by OcCre, I have received several helpful emails from members but a thought has occurred while sanding the first planking layer. The OcCre videos and other vids show the pins in place and consequently you have to file them flat to get a flat surface for the next layer of planks.
My question is when I was carrying out the first planking I inserted the nails as shown on the plans, which is a lot of nails, but could I nail the pins in to say three quarter of their length rather than the whole way and when the glue has dried remove the nails. When the nails are hammered in flat it is difficult to remove them without damaging the planks.
Click to expand...
I just use a small punch and small hammer and knock the pins in further before sanding rather than pulling them out. Given all models have a 2nd layer of planking you never see the pins again. Regarding planking practice over a number of models will help with your technique ... keep plugging away.
 
KeithLyall said:
I just use a small punch and small hammer and knock the pins in further before sanding rather than pulling them out. Given all models have a 2nd layer of planking you never see the pins again. Regarding planking practice over a number of models will help with your technique ... keep plugging away.
Click to expand...
The oint if my post was that it didn't have a second layer so the first has to be perfect. And it can be, quite easily.
No pins, clamps or nasty twists in the planks. And all in a single layer.

20241014_175415.jpg

20241003_131018.jpg
 
KeithLyall said:
I just use a small punch and small hammer and knock the pins in further before sanding rather than pulling them out. Given all models have a 2nd layer of planking you never see the pins again. Regarding planking practice over a number of models will help with your technique ... keep plugging away.
Click to expand...
Hi Keith, Thanks for your thoughts along with all the other contributors. If you have the time to read all their comments and suggestions along with all the associated videos, courtesy of YouTube, you will see there are quite a few different ways of securing the planks. With and without pins.
It all makes brilliant reading from my beginners perspective. I will be changing my method for future builds. I love the “Chuck Pissaro” videos, the guy is phenominal. Not all models have two layers of planks so putting pins in a model with only one layer would not look right. Check out Kurt’s build, he has adopted Chucks method successfully.
Thanks for your comments and I will check out your builds.
Dennis
 
With regards to your present model, not future ones that you might build.

Have you considered goop? This is an inelegant name for various formulations that you might trowel on to your model. Here in the USA I would use Durhams Rock Hard Water Putty, an acrylic powder that you mix with water. There are similar materials sold by specialty woodworking companies. You could also use auto body filler. All of these dry hard and sand well. Once it hardens, it should be sanded to a smooth hull shape.

The “double planking” of POB kits is not prototypical boat or shipbuilding. It is used by many kit manufacturers to provide a surface for adding the “real” planking, while using the minimum number of bulkheads. So, using goop is not cheating. Anything that will provide a fair solid surface is OK. You can then add your second layer of planking OR paint the hull without the second planking.

My advice allows you to move ahead to complete your model and to build a better one next time.

Roger
 
Roger Pellett said:
With regards to your present model, not future ones that you might build.

Have you considered goop? This is an inelegant name for various formulations that you might trowel on to your model. Here in the USA I would use Durhams Rock Hard Water Putty, an acrylic powder that you mix with water. There are similar materials sold by specialty woodworking companies. You could also use auto body filler. All of these dry hard and sand well. Once it hardens, it should be sanded to a smooth hull shape.

The “double planking” of POB kits is not prototypical boat or shipbuilding. It is used by many kit manufacturers to provide a surface for adding the “real” planking, while using the minimum number of bulkheads. So, using goop is not cheating. Anything that will provide a fair solid surface is OK. You can then add your second layer of planking OR paint the hull without the second planking.

My advice allows you to move ahead to complete your model and to build a better one next time.

Roger
Click to expand...
Goop cement is silicone rubber and does not dry to a solid, hard substance. Be careful. If you're looking for a wood filler, there are many. My favorite is Timbermate (Australian). It is easiky worked and doesn't dry out in its container. Available in different colors too. And one other great one is Bondo wood filler.Screenshot_20250204-194248_Chrome.jpgScreenshot_20250204-194313_Chrome.jpg
 
Last edited:
Hi Folks,
A question for you. When I eventually start the second planking, which is a very thin wood. Actually it’s like a veneer compared to the first planking. OcCre show in their videos and the instructions that both planking layers are held by a super glue which sticks almost instantaneously, whereas I am using CA, white glue. Which takes about twenty minutes to set. My question is if I need to clamp the second layer, how do you do that as the hull shape would be complete with the first layer of planks in place. Maybe elastic bands over the whole outside.
What are your thoughts please ?
 
Hello Dennis -
In the Occre Polaris instructions and video, the builder is using contact cement or something like that whereby one applies the glue to both pieces, lets the glue dry and then sticks the two pieces together. One problem with this is that you have zero adjustability. When the 2 pieces come in contact with each other, that's it... they are stuck together and you won't be able to make any adjustments.
When I was installing the 2nd layer of planking on my Polaris build, I used CA to glue the first plank; however as you pointed out the plank is very thin, and it is quite porous. The glue actually wicked or seeped through the wood. I switched to PVA glue for the remainder of the planking. I used strips of blue painters tape (quick release) to hold the planks in place whilst the glue dried. I had plenty of time to make adjustments. If you want to speed up the drying time, you could use a hair dryer or hot air gun. Just be careful you don't scorch the wood.

...henry
 
One point that is missed more often than not is that the wales need to seat into the rabbet same as the adjacent strakes of planking. This means the thickness of the wales needs to be reduced to the same thickness as the other planks at the rabbet rather than stand proud of the other planking.
Allan
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top