Pins for First Planking

Polyfilla spackle is not sold as powder btw - it comes ready-mixed in tubs. Good product I have found - but remember, it air-dries to set - this isn't a plaster-based filler.
That is correct. And it dries quickly too. I usually get the stuff that is pink and turns white when it dries.
 
Chelseafan is right 100%. If you spend the time to groom and shape each plant to fit, no clamps or pins are required. It does take a lot of time and patience, however, and these are not things in great abundance with most new modelers. The results speak for themselves.
This is only my third ship model so it's not constrained by experience or patience. In my first model I tried the ugly first layer, nails, spackle with a second layer of thin walnut. The end result was good but I didn't enjoy it much.
The next was my 78th scale Victory. This time I spent a lot of time getting the fairing right and the tapers good. But I was still faced with the plank twisting needed to get the bow to a compound curve. Again, we were clamping. Time consuming but a good end result.
For my third model I decided to use Chuck's method, after all, I was using his design and fabulous instructions. I can't recommend his work highly enough.
Frankly, the shaping really wasn't that time consuming. The first plank told me my measuring, tapering and fairing were all good and producing the ski-shape flat curve turned out much easier than I expected. Once I had the line I found that my fingers could massage that curve to the required shape with a very gentle steam iron touch. The travel iron is ideal. It's small and not that hot.
Also, putting a slight chamfer on the inside edge helps sit the plank tight from the get go. Very easy to eyeball.
To be clear, there is no would filler of any kind on this model, just a light sanding. It's single layer so it has to be right. Also, you're not left with wood that has holes or clamp marks on its surfaces. And the planks are secured instantly with just a tiny dab of superglue. Even Chuck said I had done a good job but it was his easy to follow technique that made for that result. I will never plank with clamps and pins again.
The pictures show the battling with the front end of Endeavour and then Victory. Lots of twisting and filler on the first layers.
And finally one layer, no filler for Confederacy.
So as this is only my third ship the learning curve was pretty straightforward.
I can dispense with about 20 planking books as a result! 20190223_222634.jpg

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I tell anyone go and watch Chuck Pissaro's wonderful YouTube short videos on planking accurately.
Thanks for doing this. Others of us have recommended these videos as well, but it feels like preaching to the choir the majority of the time. It is not that difficult to arrive at a great job of planking without pins of any kind and few, if any, clamps if pre-shaped edge bending is used. Happily some kits are now providing spiled planks which makes the job even easier without pins and clamps and no edge bending necessary.
Allan
 
Thanks for doing this. Others of us have recommended these videos as well, but it feels like preaching to the choir the majority of the time. It is not that difficult to arrive at a great job of planking without pins of any kind and few, if any, clamps if pre-shaped edge bending is used. Happily some kits are now providing spiled planks which makes the job even easier without pins and clamps and no edge bending necessary.
Allan
Could someone provide a link to this video on YouTube please
 
Has anyone used 'push pins'; placed into the frame member to hold the plank in place?

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Have used them but care needs to be taken that you don't split the bulkheads/frames (I pre-drilled with a .8 mm bit when I used these on the Gunboat Philadelphia (which is what the instructions for that kit suggested using). Also, get the ones with the metal heads if you are going to use them; the heads of the plastic-headed ones can break off easily when pressing them in to wood.
 
Have been building models for about 4 years now and all I can say is every model has its challenges and all challenges can be met and overcome (even if you get super frustrated like I dd with my Gunboat Philadelphia build - put it away for a year and a bunch of other projects around the house [all 1:1]). The other thing I've re-learned is that there is a lot of knowledge available if you are willing to put in the time to seek it out.

Thanks to all on this site for their comments, pointers & other assistance over the years.
 
Hi, I am new to this wonderful hobby and am building my first model, Polaris by OcCre, I have received several helpful emails from members but a thought has occurred while sanding the first planking layer. The OcCre videos and other vids show the pins in place and consequently you have to file them flat to get a flat surface for the next layer of planks.
My question is when I was carrying out the first planking I inserted the nails as shown on the plans, which is a lot of nails, but could I nail the pins in to say three quarter of their length rather than the whole way and when the glue has dried remove the nails. When the nails are hammered in flat it is difficult to remove them without damaging the planks.
I just use a small punch and small hammer and knock the pins in further before sanding rather than pulling them out. Given all models have a 2nd layer of planking you never see the pins again. Regarding planking practice over a number of models will help with your technique ... keep plugging away.
 
I just use a small punch and small hammer and knock the pins in further before sanding rather than pulling them out. Given all models have a 2nd layer of planking you never see the pins again. Regarding planking practice over a number of models will help with your technique ... keep plugging away.
The oint if my post was that it didn't have a second layer so the first has to be perfect. And it can be, quite easily.
No pins, clamps or nasty twists in the planks. And all in a single layer.

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I just use a small punch and small hammer and knock the pins in further before sanding rather than pulling them out. Given all models have a 2nd layer of planking you never see the pins again. Regarding planking practice over a number of models will help with your technique ... keep plugging away.
Hi Keith, Thanks for your thoughts along with all the other contributors. If you have the time to read all their comments and suggestions along with all the associated videos, courtesy of YouTube, you will see there are quite a few different ways of securing the planks. With and without pins.
It all makes brilliant reading from my beginners perspective. I will be changing my method for future builds. I love the “Chuck Pissaro” videos, the guy is phenominal. Not all models have two layers of planks so putting pins in a model with only one layer would not look right. Check out Kurt’s build, he has adopted Chucks method successfully.
Thanks for your comments and I will check out your builds.
Dennis
 
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