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HMS Enterprise 1774 POF 1:48.

That coat of poly really does something to the joints that make them look superb!

Took me awhile to figure out that you didn't scrap anything! I just couldn't understand what was wrong that necessitated a redo.

Glad you just had to scrape the beakhead, which produced a great finish prior to the poly. Thanks for sharing!!!
 
GrantTyler said:
Good morning.
Cutting gunports: Hmmmm……:mad:.

Through out this build the instructions and design of the kit have made this a fairly complex build. So far the challenges have been rather enjoyable and made for some brainstorming - always fun.

Gunports…..hmmm ROTF.
Firstly the two diagrams provided differ from each other so I decided to go with the one which showed the “end product”. The second diagram.
View attachment 522584
View attachment 522585
Unfortunately the frames in this diagram are not in sync with my ship so I cannot trust this either and “tossed” it.

The instructions use a dummy cannon jig which you use to mark the frames as a starting point. I marked each port using this method and using blocks of wood cut to size determined the size and position of the port.
View attachment 522586
As a double check I used The first diagram which frames do match up 100% to my ship. I cut this and stuck it to the ship.
View attachment 522587
The really cool thing is my decks and clamps match up to this diagram really well so that made me happy. I Marked each port.

The ports per the plan and my calculations using the jig and measurements came out pretty close but not 100%. Obviously I need to include the stops, lintel and sills so the measured drawing is bigger than the one marked from the plan. Here are two examples:
View attachment 522588

View attachment 522589
2 differents methods 2 different results, two different diagrams, two different results……hmmm:mad:.
I then thought I had better check if I can add my spirketling.
View attachment 522590
Works OK, but the kit is clearly not designed to take this and does not fit super cool with the port.Not glued just a look see.
View attachment 522591
I cut the first port on SB side using a best guess methodROTF and added some stops, fake sill and lintel. (Not cut correctly or glued) just to see shape and colour.
View attachment 522592View attachment 522593
I now need to try and get the measurements and placement right. For the 10th time:oops:.

I will be showing one or two ports open. For these I will adjust the frames and add a proper lintel and sill as per this diagram:
View attachment 522595
For all the ports with port lids I will use fake stops, lintels etc and plank according to this diagram:
View attachment 522594
For those without port lids, I will extend the stops to the plank level as the stops are not required- clearly. …..

Whew that took a while….ROTFROTF.

Cheers Grant
Click to expand...
Grant, hi.
I don't want to seem boring, but the port lines and the deck lines should be parallel. In your photo, this is not the case. And also - the gun port frame is always square. Along the frames, it is vertical without changes, and along the deck at the bottom and top. Therefore, in some places it looks more like a trapezoid. And also - for marking the ports, you can use not a template, but the distance from the deck flooring to the lower edge of the port. It is strictly regulated for each caliber of guns. as well as the car and the size of the port in the light. You can use this data for marking the ports
IMG_5765.jpeg
 
Alexander74 said:
the gun port frame is always square.
Click to expand...
This may be a translation issue, but the ports are not usually "square". Even when trapezoidal, the height (depth) and fore and aft dimensions are not the same.

From the contract for Enterprize:
To have 12 upper deck ports on each side, fore & aft 2 ft 4 ins, & 2 ft 3 ins deep

From a contract for a 36 is another example
Ports Deep 2 Feet 6 Inches, Fore and Aft 2 Feet 11 Inches.

Allan
 
AllanKP69 said:
This may be a translation issue, but the ports are not usually "square". Even when trapezoidal, the height (depth) and fore and aft dimensions are not the same.

From the contract for Enterprize:
To have 12 upper deck ports on each side, fore & aft 2 ft 4 ins, & 2 ft 3 ins deep

From a contract for a 36 is another example
Ports Deep 2 Feet 6 Inches, Fore and Aft 2 Feet 11 Inches.

Allan
Click to expand...
Allan, hi. I didn't know about the different sizes in the bow and stern. Maybe. But our authors haven't written about it (for example, Ilyin's "Practical Naval Artillery"), the sizes of the ports are indicated there depending on the caliber of the gun, without specifying that they are different in the bow and stern. And it's more likely that the width of the port is larger, the height should remain unchanged. A square port opening is possible only in the midship area. In other places, a trapezoid. In any case, the lower edge of the port should be parallel to the deck.
 
Alexander74 said:
Grant, hi.
I don't want to seem boring, but the port lines and the deck lines should be parallel. In your photo, this is not the case. And also - the gun port frame is always square. Along the frames, it is vertical without changes, and along the deck at the bottom and top. Therefore, in some places it looks more like a trapezoid. And also - for marking the ports, you can use not a template, but the distance from the deck flooring to the lower edge of the port. It is strictly regulated for each caliber of guns. as well as the car and the size of the port in the light. You can use this data for marking the ports
View attachment 523147
Click to expand...
Hi Sasha. From my reading I have not seen ports only follow the deck sheer. I may be totally incorrect here with my understanding. With this kit it has been extremely difficult to any make adjustments to the original design (has been one of my frustrations) so I have followed their gun port lay out, which makes them at 90 degrees to the frame other than the cant frame port. This photo does accentuate the issue tho. I have also measure the ports from the deck using the jig the manufacturers provided which does correlate to the cut outs. The ports end up very close to the deck so it all seems a bit strange.
AllanKP69 said:
This may be a translation issue, but the ports are not usually "square". Even when trapezoidal, the height (depth) and fore and aft dimensions are not the same.

From the contract for Enterprize:
To have 12 upper deck ports on each side, fore & aft 2 ft 4 ins, & 2 ft 3 ins deep

From a contract for a 36 is another example
Ports Deep 2 Feet 6 Inches, Fore and Aft 2 Feet 11 Inches.

Allan
Click to expand...
This is what I understood. My measurements are not accurate with the contract as this would not fit into this kit design.
Alexander74 said:
In any case, the lower edge of the port should be parallel to the deck.
Click to expand...
If this is the case my ports will wrong...I cant change them now. I clearly misunderstood what I have read. Maybe help me out- do the wales follow the deck sheer or not ? I know they do not follow the waterline which is the verticle. Whew...... ROTF. What ever happens it will look cool tho.
Cheers Grant
 
Alexander74 said:
And it's more likely that the width of the port is larger, the height should remain unchanged.
Click to expand...
Hi Alexander
Not sure what you mean about the height being unchanged. The depth (height) is the same for some decks, but not all of them.

One example, from the contract for Elephant (74) 1781
Gun Deck- Ports deep 2 feet 8 inches, fore & aft 3 feet 5 inches
Upper Deck- Ports deep 2 feet 8 inches fore & aft 2 feet 10 inches
Quarter Deck - Ports deep 2 feet 5 inches, Fore and Aft 2 feet 8 inches

Another example, London (90) 1766
Gun deck 2 feet 8 inches deep & fore and aft 3 feet 4 inches
Middle deck 2 feet 8 inches deep & fore and aft 3 feet 0
Upper deck 2 feet 6 inches deep & fore and aft 2 feet 9 inches
I have not yet seen any contemporary drawing or contract that calls for different size gun ports on the same deck of a given ship.

Allan
 
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sevish said:
Great craftsmanship Great looking great
Cheers
Click to expand...
Thank you Guy
RussF said:
Scrap or Scrape? I'm thinking scrape - it doesn't look like you scrapped anything! Looks fantastic! ;)
Click to expand...
Hi Russ. Yes definitely scrape….although at times scrap would be appropriate ROTF
Daniel20 said:
You have a fine winner going Grant. At first when you said you were going to scrap that very fine beakhead I thought you meant you're getting rid of it :eek:. Glad you meant scrape. :D
Click to expand...
Hi Daniel. Yes as Russ said - I think auto correct took over. Thank you for your continued involvement in my builds. It is appreciated. Cheers Grant
 
BradNSW said:
That coat of poly really does something to the joints that make them look superb!

Took me awhile to figure out that you didn't scrap anything! I just couldn't understand what was wrong that necessitated a redo.

Glad you just had to scrape the beakhead, which produced a great finish prior to the poly. Thanks for sharing!!!
Click to expand...
Hello Brad. I did not insert black/brown paper or chalk the joints. I know a lot of guys like to really define the joints but I prefer the subtle approach (just my preference). I am very pleased with the outcome. Yep auto correct made me scrap the whole beakhead ROTFROTF.
Thank you for following my first POF which is a bit of a hit and miss……hopefully more hits.
Cheers Grant
 
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