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LUCZORAMA SHIPWRECK SCAVENGER HUNT GIVEAWAY. 4 Weeks of Fun • 1 Legendary Prize ((OcCre’s Fram Ship)) • Global Crew Welcome!
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- Apr 12, 2025
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- 78
Good luck finding 'that'! I had to buy a roll of 'edge banding veneer' off of ebay (Veneer Depot). It's .015" thick x 2.0" wide x 160' feet long, Maple wood. Cost $30 bucks. You can cut thin 1/16" wide strips out of this via a knife or one of those cheap office paper cutters/shears from Amazon. Maple was the only light-colored wood available. There is no adhesive on the back but there 'is' some sort of a micro-thin, bumpy clear film on the back. I guess that's for better glue adhesion. That film is so thin that there's no need to worry about it (I don't).
Hope this helps...
Hope this helps...
the bumpy stuff is an iron on heat activated adhesive.
You reckon its hard to find in USA, try freaking Australia.
The hobby shops have all sorts of wood but nothing that is correct to what you want SO....
I made my own.
I bought a Proxxon saw and then I used a drum roller to bring the edge to size.
I left .005" to clean up and used the drum emery roller fitted to my very old Sawbench Chuck, done the finishing touches.
Talking about the Drum Roller setup, it all happened in a blur. How to make it and what I did to adjust the height is under the roller and at the back of it, I fastened a thin sheet of Craftwood, and to adjust the thickness of sanding, I used a thin piece of wood with a slight angle ( a piece of off cut) and I push it under the ply to lift it up to narrow the cut.
A 5-minute invention that really serves me well.
How much did it cost?
Nothing, as I already had the drum rollers on hand.
Another thing is if you use it correctly and only take minimal cuts off the piece of wood, thinning and finishing really works a treat.
Rough as but it works to plus or minus a 0.001"
Hmm, should have pulled up the Japanese Bamboo that has come through from 15 metres under concrete to my wood area, through a floor made up of old brick pavers.
I might get around to it ,someday but not when it's a Forest.
The hobby shops have all sorts of wood but nothing that is correct to what you want SO....
I made my own.
I bought a Proxxon saw and then I used a drum roller to bring the edge to size.
I left .005" to clean up and used the drum emery roller fitted to my very old Sawbench Chuck, done the finishing touches.
Talking about the Drum Roller setup, it all happened in a blur. How to make it and what I did to adjust the height is under the roller and at the back of it, I fastened a thin sheet of Craftwood, and to adjust the thickness of sanding, I used a thin piece of wood with a slight angle ( a piece of off cut) and I push it under the ply to lift it up to narrow the cut.
A 5-minute invention that really serves me well.
How much did it cost?
Nothing, as I already had the drum rollers on hand.
Another thing is if you use it correctly and only take minimal cuts off the piece of wood, thinning and finishing really works a treat.
Rough as but it works to plus or minus a 0.001"
Hmm, should have pulled up the Japanese Bamboo that has come through from 15 metres under concrete to my wood area, through a floor made up of old brick pavers.
I might get around to it ,someday but not when it's a Forest.
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Check with Joe at Modeler's Sawmill.
Milled wood lumber strips for the model ship builder - Modelers Sawmill
Milled wood strips for the model ship builder and hobbyist including Apple, Boxwood, Holly, Par Marfim, Swiss Pear and more...
www.modelerssawmill.com
- Joined
- Apr 12, 2025
- Messages
- 108
- Points
- 78
Ahaa! I made a thickness sander using a Dremel drill press and a drawplate for the back gauge. Cut the wood strips a bit thick on a small table saw then ran them through this gadget for final thicknessing. This redneck rig also holds tolerances around a thou. There are many ways to skin a cat like this, unless you don't want to mess with equipment!
Nice job. quick and easy! How do you get the thickness of the trim?Ahaa! I made a thickness sander using a Dremel drill press and a drawplate for the back gauge. Cut the wood strips a bit thick on a small table saw then ran them through this gadget for final thicknessing. This redneck rig also holds tolerances around a thou. There are many ways to skin a cat like this, unless you don't want to mess with equipment!
View attachment 523620
I hummed and haa'd over buying the Proxxen saw but weighing up on the material I save on each cut verses the the thickness of strip then the Proxxen may win but it is limited to the thickness I can cut with it. However, that's because we in Australia cannot get your modelling woods and pay out a mint for a strip of it if available, unfortunately. So, $300 is nothing compared to buying the wood, and if lucky, to right thickness and width.
I bought some 1/16x 1/16 today at Hobby Lobby.. not your requested size, but they have others in bass and balsa.. I have the Byrnes saw and sander, but for that size, I just buy them. If I needed a lot I would mill them,, 5 pieces for $1.99 hope this helps Their CA glue is the best.
The material provided for the rib stiffeners appear to be 1/32 x 1/16 x 12. The plans say to use .02 x 1/16. So I am only sanding off about .01 of the thickness. It may be more trouble than it is worth. Besides, every piece of strip wood that came with the kit is not accurate according to the parts list. I may end up using the strips as they are.
I do have a second question about cutting all of these rib stiffeners. I am estimating that I need to make about 300-500 cuts. Maybe a bit more, as I have not added up all that are shown on the drawings. Is there a tool available to purchase or possibly make to make this step easier? I need a cutoff blade and a fence stop so that I can butt the strip against the stop along the fence. I really do not look forward to trying to measure out each piece. I did three wing ribs by laying the strip across the rib, marking it with a pencil and then cutting the strip with my exacto knife. None of the pieces are the same size as I can barely see the mark or the cut, with my poor eyesite. LOL
I do have a second question about cutting all of these rib stiffeners. I am estimating that I need to make about 300-500 cuts. Maybe a bit more, as I have not added up all that are shown on the drawings. Is there a tool available to purchase or possibly make to make this step easier? I need a cutoff blade and a fence stop so that I can butt the strip against the stop along the fence. I really do not look forward to trying to measure out each piece. I did three wing ribs by laying the strip across the rib, marking it with a pencil and then cutting the strip with my exacto knife. None of the pieces are the same size as I can barely see the mark or the cut, with my poor eyesite. LOL
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Consider veneer. Do you have a Woodcraft near you?
That bumpy clear film IS the glue. It’s hot melt glue and you use an iron to apply it.
I think there is one nearby. I will check them out.
Thanks Phil
Since my other hobby is model railroading, I've been using scale lumber from Mt Alberts in Canada. (They ship to the US). They are owned by Fast Tracks. (https://handlaidtrack.com) The lumber catalog is buried in their menu. They offer basswood in the various model railroad scales (N, S, HO, and O) as well as dimensional lumber. I buy their bulk pack in 16" lengths. I've used HO scale 1X lumber that is close to 1/2" thickness in 1/4" scale. Attached is a photo of a boat shop I built for a future Maine coastal theme model railroad layout. It is scratch built using Mt Alberts lumber.
Pete
Pete
- Joined
- Jun 29, 2024
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Model aircraft plywood is available in fractional sizes the thinnest being 1/64”. At that thickness, the ply’s are invisible.
Roger
Roger
Do you have a source?
That looks awesome, Pete!