None of my tools work right! But that could possibly be operator error.
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Have you tried liberal applications of alcohol?None of my tools work right! But that could possibly be operator error.
I just ordered one, thanks!Manning, there is a a hobby knife handle I bought and fell in love with, it's this one by Fiskars. It's about the best one I ever used.
Only on my cut hands.Have you tried liberal applications of alcohol?
I know X-acto handles are very common, but I gave up on them for the same reason the collet would loosen and the blades fell out.The worst was the old ratliner ..went in the dumpster. now the exacto type knives..can't keep the blades tight
Once I reeve the shrouds I cut triangles of graph paper in the shape of the shrouds and slide them in behind the shrouds and use the lines on the graph paper to make guides for the ratlines. Here's a pic:
I have also been using this system for years, it is efficient and the clear card positioned at the back, allows you to clearly see the work progress.
View attachment 525768
I own two different versions of these. One of them, if I'm careful with it, is actually quite good. It's an older version with a wooden handle. The newer one that I though might have great promise was an expensive black plastic thing... it's complete crap, and that's being kind. I have to test the nails I'm using to ensure they'll actually even fit inside the thing, as many of the nails that come with the kits have heads that are too large to fit. When they do fit, the wooden handled one is my friend... most of the time. I've been known to drive the occasional nail through the tip of my finger in the pursuit of hull planking happiness. Regardless, my process is now to lightly drive the nails in with the hand tool, and then once the glue has dried, carefully pull them out with a set of needle nosed pliers.I have that one on my list too. I think it is a dangerous tool.
I own one of those. The only thing I use it for is to cut deck planks to length... purely a repetitious and monotonous task. I use thin double sided craft tape to secure a thick wooden block to one end to act as the stop guide, and then hack away till I have those hundreds of little planks cut. I wish it had some sort of better locking mechanism to stabilize the cuts to 90 degrees. I certainly wouldn't use it for anything else though. So for me, a niche tool that covers my needs for about 2% of my build needs.View attachment 525657
This Amati's, so called plank cutter... A total piece of crap. I could rather use an axe with my eyes shut.
I have had a lot of experience in this line, and in the spirit of goodwill, and the fact that I am retired and wish to see things a little more perfect, I have offered my services to several Chinese companies to clean up their instruction sheets and manuals. No takers.Did you expect the Chinese company to speak and type perfect English.
The challenge you face is that for them to accept your kind offer, they first have to acknowledge that they failed in the first place. And therein lies the problem. Sometimes the effort to protect self esteem outweighs the opportunity to improve. Now I have to state (given the world we live in now), that what I've noted is not being derogatory of a given ethnic group, but rather my experience over decades of working with (and in some cases for) Chinese companies. The language challenges are but one facet of the interaction hurdles. Truly an example of when two cultures try to work towards a common goal that what may appear simple, more often than not, is not.I have had a lot of experience in this line, and in the spirit of goodwill, and the fact that I am retired and wish to see things a little more perfect, I have offered my services to several Chinese companies to clean up their instruction sheets and manuals. No takers.
It's not a bad idea in principle to offer translated manuals for sale, and I can see the appeal, especially for those who prefer structured guidance in their native language. However, there’s a real concern: as soon as a single copy is purchased, there’s a high chance that it will be scanned or shared freely online. Once that happens, free copies will quickly flood the internet, undermining the value of the work and making it almost impossible to maintain any kind of return on the time and effort invested in the translation. Sadly, this kind of unauthorized sharing is very common, especially in niche hobbies.Maybe someone can start a new cottage industry. As people sell after market ship model parts to improve kits, How about cleaning up poor translations and selling after market instructions?
Thanks, rtwpsom2, for the recommendation, I have just bought one from an independent craft shop, & at a good price & realistic postage - half the price of Amaz. with their min. order of £35 to qualify for 'free postage'. Very pleased with it, I use it where scalpel blades are too flimsy & break. All the Exacto type holders are useless, even soft rubber coated ones, as soon as you twist it, it unscrews itself. I've even tried plumbers thread tape, but that soon wears away. They're OK for holding a chisel blade - in a straight line! Forgot to say; "Not available on Amaz. UK" (does not ship to UK)Manning, there is a a hobby knife handle I bought and fell in love with, it's this one by Fiskars. It's about the best one I ever used.
I agree, completely useless.View attachment 525657
This Amati's, so called plank cutter... A total piece of crap. I could rather use an axe with my eyes shut.
Yes it is, I bought a similar one in red plastic, the handle had a mind of its own to twist out of line. The ONLY bit that could be useful (when/if I find a use for it), was the blade! The rest was (s)crapped.View attachment 525657
This Amati's, so called plank cutter... A total piece of crap. I could rather use an axe with my eyes shut.
Have you considered a "Chopper" by Northwest Short Line." NWSL is mainly a model railroad company but it had some good items. I have two of these, the original which is about 6" x 6" and the "Chopper II" which is approx. 4" x 12". Both have hold downs on either side of the chopping handle and each has two flat pieces mitered to provide 30, 45, 60 and 90 degree stops. The hold-downs are very good, never had a problem with them. The "knife" uses replaceable single-edge razor blades. I have used these for years and have found them pretty much indispensable for cutting items to length or to get an angle for mitre joints. I am sure I got the Chopper II from Micro Mark and probably got the Chopper "1" from MM as well. MM Has an on -line catalogue and it ships orders very promptly. MM also carries an abundance of tools and othe items for modelers of all types.I own one of those. The only thing I use it for is to cut deck planks to length... purely a repetitious and monotonous task. I use thin double sided craft tape to secure a thick wooden block to one end to act as the stop guide, and then hack away till I have those hundreds of little planks cut. I wish it had some sort of better locking mechanism to stabilize the cuts to 90 degrees. I certainly wouldn't use it for anything else though. So for me, a niche tool that covers my needs for about 2% of my build needs.![]()
Yeah, the Fiskars Xacto blade handle is the best I've encountered. It clamps the blade with enough force that you can't pull the blade out of the handle and it's comfortable. Plus it doesn't roll.Thanks, rtwpsom2, for the recommendation, I have just bought one from an independent craft shop, & at a good price & realistic postage - half the price of Amaz. with their min. order of £35 to qualify for 'free postage'. Very pleased with it, I use it where scalpel blades are too flimsy & break. All the Exacto type holders are useless, even soft rubber coated ones, as soon as you twist it, it unscrews itself. I've even tried plumbers thread tape, but that soon wears away. They're OK for holding a chisel blade - in a straight line!
Stuart