• Win a Free Custom Engraved Brass Coin!!!
    As a way to introduce our brass coins to the community, we will raffle off a free coin during the month of August. Follow link ABOVE for instructions for entering.

HMS Agamemnon by Caldercraft

:)Not at all
The belts were not supposed to be repeated, and they were not mirrored, and the joints were not supposed to match...
1-7.jpg 1-8.jpg
 
Do you only use one template for every porthole?
View attachment 548473
The port holes edges (surrounds) should be covered to their edge by the planking

Too late now but for next time

uIf ats a double planked model Plank straight under the Gun Port And then fill the gap above and below with 2 timbers
ie use the gunport surround to act as template to cut too
Mosr ports are the same size - look on the plan


Looking good otherwise
 
he port holes edges (surrounds) should be covered to their edge by the planking
Not sure exactly what you are referring to. :( The photos above do show the planking ending at the edges of the ports. The planking covers the sill on top and sill on the bottom as well as the frame on each side that make up the port. It does not cover the stops which are recessed and were about 1.5 inches thick. On Marc's model I believe the red pieces are the stops as they are recessed. These were found on the top of the lower sill and on the two sides, but there was no stop on the bottom of the upper sill. The internal planking covers the sills and frames as well as the stops as they extend to the edge of the sills and frames. rather than being recessed on the inboard side.
Allan

1759682062325.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Not sure exactly what you are referring to. :( The photos above do show the planking ending at the edges of the ports. The planking covers the sill on top and sill on the bottom as well as the frame on each side that make up the port. It does not cover the stops which are recessed and were about 1.5 inches thick. On Marc's model I believe the red pieces are the stops as they are recessed. These were found on the top of the lower sill and on the two sides, but there was no stop on the bottom of the upper sill. The internal planking covers the sills and frames as well as the stops as they extend to the edge of the sills and frames. rather than being recessed on the inboard side.
Allan

View attachment 548506
1759683621765.png
 
Mosr ports are the same size - look on the plan
Hi Richard,
Looking at the contemporary contract for HMS Nassau, a sister of HMS Agamemnon, the sizes of the gun ports on a given deck are different than the others as the caliber of the guns is different. In addition, while the sides and top and bottom on a given deck are the same, the shape changes as they are parallelograms. Each is a slightly different shape as the angle of the top and bottom of the port changes so they are pretty much parallel to the sheer of the deck.

Allan
From the contract you can see the sizes vary in both depth and fore and aft.
Gun deck 2 feet 8 inches deep and 3 feet 4 inches fore and aft
1759688947804.jpeg

Upper deck 2 feet 8 inches deep and 2 feet 10 inches fore and aft
1759689223110.jpeg


Quarter deck 2 feet 4 inches deep and 2 feet 6 inches fore and aft.
1759689194471.jpeg
 
Another oddity: For some reason, the gun ports have two eyebolts each. There should actually be four!
The lower eye bolt must have a ring.
02 1.jpg
10_0780d99baee61ddfce0dc2d738b5f544 — копия.jpg

2008_11_Pushki_01.jpg

The fife rail for the belaying pin should be installed much lower. The top edge of the gun port serves as a reference point.

02 001.jpg

64187_6a02a0e8a3fbd8d9da10aaa1ba430f5b.jpg
1154-GUN.jpg
32411169647_35c38362aa_o.thumb.jpg.84e69711fea7047d78e5e5c62eac39db (1).jpg
40387672793_e72311d570_o.thumb.jpg.51c86f692f04faef972fd7c28d67b9eb (1).jpg


02 002.jpg


Fife-rails is not a typo, the fife-rails is so named because of its resemblance to a shepherd's pipe, that is, a pipe with a row of holes, this pipe was called a fife.

The number of belaying pins should be 12-13 per quarterdeck bulwark. See Longridge for details.
The belaying pins that came with the kit are no good; they should be thrown out. Many companies now sell high-quality replica belaying pins, and I'm sure they're easy to find in Belgium, too. It's best to get bronze ones, then paint them to look like wood—they won't break under the rigging.

02 003.jpg
02 005.jpg
02 004.jpg
Belayingpin.jpg.82e2e763843b172d9d6c237e913a0ad2.jpg
rs5658.jpg
rt8437.jpg
 
Let's return to the forward quarterdeck beam. The railing installed on it is called a breast rail. Breast rails have either 8 or 10 pillars. Different drawings show this differently. HMS Augusta has 10 pillars. A museum model of an unknown 64-gun ship and a drawing of HMS Nassau show 8 pillars.

The bottom backing (item 90) needs to be removed. At this point there should be a bare forward quarterdeck beam.
Each pillar (item 404+149) has a different shape than the one in the set. At that time, all decorative pillars were shaped like antique lamps.

02 2.jpg


02 3.jpg

02 8.jpg 02 7.jpg 02 5.jpg 02 4.jpg
 
Last edited:
Another oddity: For some reason, the gun ports have two eyebolts each. There should actually be four!
The lower eye bolt must have a ring.
View attachment 548726
View attachment 548727

View attachment 548728

The fife rail for the belaying pin should be installed much lower. The top edge of the gun port serves as a reference point.

View attachment 548729

View attachment 548737
View attachment 548738
View attachment 548739
View attachment 548740


View attachment 548730


Fife-rails is not a typo, the fife-rails is so named because of its resemblance to a shepherd's pipe, that is, a pipe with a row of holes, this pipe was called a fife.

The number of belaying pins should be 12-13 per quarterdeck bulwark. See Longridge for details.
The belaying pins that came with the kit are no good; they should be thrown out. Many companies now sell high-quality replica belaying pins, and I'm sure they're easy to find in Belgium, too. It's best to get bronze ones, then paint them to look like wood—they won't break under the rigging.

View attachment 548733
View attachment 548735
View attachment 548736
View attachment 548741
View attachment 548742
View attachment 548743
Thx Iutar!
 
Mark, that's good. So, you've set the prototype's time period to the battle with two French frigates on June 1, 1796.

Безымянный (1).jpg

I'm concerned about whether you've done the fitting and calculations as described in post 281. You might need to raise the cutwater (knee of the head) higher, but I hope this problem can be solved without major modifications...

gallery_10197_918_3658.jpg gallery_10197_918_10419 (1).jpg gallery_10197_918_32311.jpg gallery_10197_918_38437 (1).jpg gallery_10197_918_62528.jpg gallery_10197_918_84507 (1).jpg gallery_10197_918_79180.jpg gallery_10197_918_78230 (2).jpg gallery_10197_918_62014 (1).jpg 001 5.jpg 001 8.jpg 001 9.jpg
 
Last edited:
Mark, that's good. So, you've set the prototype's time period to the battle with two French frigates on June 1, 1796.
View attachment 549179
I'm concerned about whether you've done the fitting and calculations as described in post 281. You might need to raise the cutwater higher, but I hope this problem can be solved without major modifications...

View attachment 549180 View attachment 549181 View attachment 549182 View attachment 549183 View attachment 549185 View attachment 549188 View attachment 549187 View attachment 549186 View attachment 549184 View attachment 549189 View attachment 549190 View attachment 549191
Hey Iutar,

Yes I've got a look on this item.
Either way, it will require some tinkering...but that's for later... :)
 
I think everything will work out, everything will rise quietly, and there will be no need to break the water cutter (knee of the head).
 
Last edited:
Next step : installation of the decorative strips.
But again a Caldercraft story ... Sick

Caldercraft delivered " Casted strips"....each strip +- 80 mm long....
Not only poorly finished, but no... for such an expensive kit, I find this unacceptable (just my opinion, of course).

So, the solution: 1 x 3 mm walnut strip and make the moldings myself. Much nicer and more finished...
For this, I used Micro Shapers from Artesania Latina...

Aga221.jpg

Aga222.jpg

Aga223.jpg

Aga224.jpg

Aga225.jpg

Aga227.jpg

Aga228.jpg

Aga229.jpg

Aga226.jpg
 
Mark, why didn't you fix those holes? Did you forget? If you don't fix them, what's the point of improving the model if it's already incorrect?

а.jpg
 
Back
Top