Dankjewel, Johan. Thanks!
Regards, Peter
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BALDER, Vlaardingen Herring Lugger from 1912, scratch build scale 1:50 Plate-On-Frame
- Thread starter Peter Voogt
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- Watchers 64
Regards, Peter
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Ingenious solution for the traveler.
Having used these tube and pin diameters on my Kolibrie model, I know how painfully accurate one must locate the parts relative to one another. Luckily it wouldn't be a daily occurrence (I hope).
Thanks, Johan. It took some effort to get both parts aligned properly so they could slide back together 'relatively' easily. But a 1mm tube doesn't have much room to maneuver.
Regards, Peter
Ek stem saam
Baie dankie, Grant.Ek stem saam
Met die hartlike groete, Peter
All these details are just a treat to the eye. You just knock my socks off and leave me gobsmacked.
Thanks, Maarten. A new ‘gob-smacker’ is always welcome.
Your socks off is ok, I suppose you have floor heating? Very nice on these gray, bleak days.
Regards, Peter
- Joined
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Hey Peter,
I haven't written anything about your build in a long time. But now I have to!
When I see your build report, I feel transported back to when I was a little boy. You are building the model that I used to stand outside the toy shop window marvelling at, begging my father to buy it for me or Santa Claus to bring it to me for Christmas. I am in love with your model and completely lost in it. I could spend hours looking at it, turning it this way and that, delighting in the incredible details. The construction alone would keep me busy for a long time.
What a ship! You build at a level I would love to be able to achieve. I am your student and you are my grand master! World class! I have rarely seen such a complex, coherent model. I take my hat off to you!
Thank you for showing me! 
I haven't written anything about your build in a long time. But now I have to!
When I see your build report, I feel transported back to when I was a little boy. You are building the model that I used to stand outside the toy shop window marvelling at, begging my father to buy it for me or Santa Claus to bring it to me for Christmas. I am in love with your model and completely lost in it. I could spend hours looking at it, turning it this way and that, delighting in the incredible details. The construction alone would keep me busy for a long time.
What a ship! You build at a level I would love to be able to achieve. I am your student and you are my grand master! World class! I have rarely seen such a complex, coherent model. I take my hat off to you!
Thank you for showing me!
Thanks, Günther, for this very nice words and compliments. You made me blush a bit ……Hey Peter,
I haven't written anything about your build in a long time. But now I have to!
When I see your build report, I feel transported back to when I was a little boy. You are building the model that I used to stand outside the toy shop window marvelling at, begging my father to buy it for me or Santa Claus to bring it to me for Christmas. I am in love with your model and completely lost in it. I could spend hours looking at it, turning it this way and that, delighting in the incredible details. The construction alone would keep me busy for a long time.
What a ship! You build at a level I would love to be able to achieve. I am your student and you are my grand master! World class! I have rarely seen such a complex, coherent model. I take my hat off to you!
Thank you for showing me!
Got some deja-vu’s from the time I was a little boy, staring at the toy windows. Thanks for bringing up those memories.
Regards, Peter
I'm glad you specified which windows you were staring at as a little boy - hopefully not those other Amsterdam windows...
……. And what your reference is for ‘Toys for Boys’ …………
The mainsail sheet traveler (or is the correct name: tack rail?):
In the middle hangs a large shackle with two large 2-sheave blocks attached to it. One of these two goes to the mainsail clew. On either side are two small metal 2-sheave blocks to move the whole thing to port and starboard and secure it in the desired position.
The mainsail sheet is clearly visible here. The traveler is also quite large, allowing you to walk underneath it.
On both sides are also two brackets to which the two side pulleys are attached. Two other lines also run through an eyelet. (This will be clarified later.)
The traveler also has a curvature equal to the radius out off the mainmast. The mainsail can follow its course within this radius when tacking.
After a lot of bending and fitting, I soldered the two parts and side supports:
Now with 1.4 mm tubing and 0.8 mm internal thread to brace the tubing without denting and for the pin.
I made both brackets from 1 mm brass strip and using the M0.6 bolts and nuts.
This is how it looks on the model:
Using AL-FI, I made a piece of hull plate to secure the traveler on the starboard side as well. There's a water valve in that spot, so I added that as well. I also added all the rivets that are there.
The necessary piece of hull plate.
With the radius.
It looks slightly different than the photo of the original Balder. I can't get a close-up with the camera here because then I wouldn't have any depth of field.
This one can also be taken apart and reassembled using the pin in the tube.
I think I now have 5 or 6 places I need to keep an eye on regarding the positioning to slide the two parts back together...
Regards, Peter
In the middle hangs a large shackle with two large 2-sheave blocks attached to it. One of these two goes to the mainsail clew. On either side are two small metal 2-sheave blocks to move the whole thing to port and starboard and secure it in the desired position.
The mainsail sheet is clearly visible here. The traveler is also quite large, allowing you to walk underneath it.
On both sides are also two brackets to which the two side pulleys are attached. Two other lines also run through an eyelet. (This will be clarified later.)
The traveler also has a curvature equal to the radius out off the mainmast. The mainsail can follow its course within this radius when tacking.
After a lot of bending and fitting, I soldered the two parts and side supports:
Now with 1.4 mm tubing and 0.8 mm internal thread to brace the tubing without denting and for the pin.
I made both brackets from 1 mm brass strip and using the M0.6 bolts and nuts.
This is how it looks on the model:
Using AL-FI, I made a piece of hull plate to secure the traveler on the starboard side as well. There's a water valve in that spot, so I added that as well. I also added all the rivets that are there.
The necessary piece of hull plate.
With the radius.
It looks slightly different than the photo of the original Balder. I can't get a close-up with the camera here because then I wouldn't have any depth of field.
This one can also be taken apart and reassembled using the pin in the tube.
I think I now have 5 or 6 places I need to keep an eye on regarding the positioning to slide the two parts back together...
Regards, Peter
Last edited:
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Very nice work! Here in the USA we do call it a Traveler.
Roger
Roger
Thanks for the compliment and the confirmation, Roger. Sometimes I need the translation-app, but it goes often wrong with the nautical term.
Regards, Peter
- Joined
- Dec 5, 2022
- Messages
- 1,024
- Points
- 393
Hey Peter,Thanks, Günther, for this very nice words and compliments. You made me blush a bit ……
Got some deja-vu’s from the time I was a little boy, staring at the toy windows. Thanks for bringing up those memories.
Regards, Peter
I knew it! We still have that curious little boy inside us who looks at the world with wide eyes. Those times weren't always easy for me, but you tend to remember the good times more than the bad.
Good morning Peter. Legendary. A quick question: when you solder do you use flux and a burner or the traditional soldering iron ?The mainsail sheet traveler (or is the correct name: tack rail?):
View attachment 561570
In the middle hangs a large shackle with two large 2-sheave blocks attached to it. One of these two goes to the mainsail clew. On either side are two small metal 2-sheave blocks to move the whole thing to port and starboard and secure it in the desired position.
View attachment 561571
The mainsail sheet is clearly visible here. The traveler is also quite large, allowing you to walk underneath it.
On both sides are also two brackets to which the two side pulleys are attached. Two other lines also run through an eyelet. (This will be clarified later.)
View attachment 561572
The traveler also has a curvature equal to the radius out off the mainmast. The mainsail can follow its course within this radius when tacking.
After a lot of bending and fitting, I soldered the two parts and side supports:
View attachment 561573
Now with 1.4 mm tubing and 0.8 mm internal thread to brace the tubing without denting and for the pin.
I made both brackets from 1 mm brass strip and using the M0.6 bolts and nuts.
This is how it looks on the model:
View attachment 561574
Using AL-FI, I made a piece of hull plate to secure the traveler on the starboard side as well. There's a water valve in that spot, so I added that as well. I also added all the rivets that are there.
The necessary piece of hull plate.
View attachment 561575
With the radius.
View attachment 561576
It looks slightly different than the photo of the original Balder. I can't get a close-up with the camera here because then I wouldn't have any depth of field.
This one can also be taken apart and reassembled using the pin in the tube.
View attachment 561577
I think I now have 5 or 6 places I need to keep an eye on regarding the positioning to slide the two parts back together...
Regards, Peter
Cheers Grant
Thanks Grant.
I am now using a small burner with old-fashion S39:
With the flame a little yellow so it's not too hot. For me, the wet S-39 has the advantage that I can stick a small piece of solder wire to the wet area to be soldered. This prevents any movement during soldering, and the solder melts very quickly. This prevents the heat from spreading too quickly to other parts that may already be soldered. This also allows me to work on several areas simultaneously and distribute the flame across them all. With flux paste, the solder pieces naturally stick together as well.
Regards, Peter
Thanks Peter.
Continued bending and soldering the brass. The anchor davit:
I noticed they used metal two-sheave blocks and a wooden single-sheave block. The stock anchor is secured to the lashing rail.
The basic components:
The base for the davit to rotate and the support for the bulwark, which still needs to be widened and holes drilled.
On the deck:
In my stash, I found a stock anchor that's reasonably true to scale. Perhaps shorten the arm and stock a bit.
The anchor can be moved outboard:
On my next visit to the Balder, I'll inquire about the purpose of the two eyebolts on the side of the end.
Regards, Peter
I noticed they used metal two-sheave blocks and a wooden single-sheave block. The stock anchor is secured to the lashing rail.
The basic components:
The base for the davit to rotate and the support for the bulwark, which still needs to be widened and holes drilled.
On the deck:
In my stash, I found a stock anchor that's reasonably true to scale. Perhaps shorten the arm and stock a bit.
The anchor can be moved outboard:
On my next visit to the Balder, I'll inquire about the purpose of the two eyebolts on the side of the end.
Regards, Peter
Hi Peter, impressive as usual.
Do you paint or chemically blacken the metal parts?