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The tape used here is PET.....available on Amazon.com in quire a few widths....
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- Joined
- Sep 16, 2022
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This the first boat and case I built so excuse the look.
To make the display case cheaper, I used 3mm backing board on the wall facing side and the top as highlighted in yellow in the pic. The model is not viewable from the wall or top anyway.
For the front and sides I used 3mm glass which was much cheaper than acrylic sheet.
To make the display case cheaper, I used 3mm backing board on the wall facing side and the top as highlighted in yellow in the pic. The model is not viewable from the wall or top anyway.
For the front and sides I used 3mm glass which was much cheaper than acrylic sheet.
I have had excellent results using picture framing glass for model cases. This glass is treated with a UV shielding that protects the model in the same way it is designed to protect framed artwork. It can be purchased quite reasonably from any framing shop. I get mine from Michael's, a crafting supply store. They will cut the glass to any dimensions you require. It's about 3/16" thick and it fits in the kerf of a table saw blade. I rip frame stock on my table saw from whatever is on hand, often oak, and then assemble it using antique picture framing tools which provide perfectly cut corner alignment and joint clamping.
THE JOY OF OLD 'ARN:
As anybody who has ever tried to cut perfectly matched miters for model cases, picture frames, interior trim, or any other mitered corner knows, it's a lot harder than it looks to get a perfectly matched mitered joint without any edge chipping or tear out. Small stuff can be done successfully with a fine-toothed blade on a Byrnes saw if one takes the requisite care in setting up the angles. For anything larger, a shooting board and a sharp block plane will do the job as long as one is careful to come at it from both directions and not cut past the far end and chip the edge. Then, too, it takes some care to get the lengths matching exactly. (I always cut my case frame pieces to length after I buy the glass cut to size from the local picture framing shop.)
Full-size table saws and powered miter saws are much too rough and often not accurate enough to do the job without requiring a lot of trimming to get the angle perfect without any edges chipping. Hand saw miter jigs are a bit better, but not by a lot. There is a tool for solving the problem, save for edge chipping. That is the H.C. Marsh Miter Machine (later Stanley-Marsh #100.) I have been fortunate to have come across two of these no longer made combination miter sawing and assembly jigs over the years, amazingly with their accompanying Disston 26" and 22" backsaws, respectively. I found one in an online auction and another at a garage sale serendipitously a week apart. I bought the second one because it was too good a deal to pass up and will permit me to glue up two corners simultaneously, thereby cutting my "glue setting" time in half. One much appreciated unique feature of this miter saw and vise, which accommodates work up to 4" in width, is that it rotates 360 degrees and tilts 90 degrees which permits moving the joined corner to a convenient angle for sawing a kerf for a spline, drilling for a dowel, or nailing. I bought one of these machines and its saw for $25.00 USD, the other for $50.00 USD. They're running around $300.00 to $350.00 on the tool collectors' market, less their backsaws which can run as much as $250 and up for Disstons in good condition. Not anywhere close to being an essential for ship modeling, but very handy for building wooden framed glass model cases, picture frames, and mitered interior trim. If you come across one for cheap, buy it!
H.C. Marsh Miter Machine (photos from internet)
The Marsh Miter Machine was marketed primarily for picture framing and, back in the day, they were standard equipment in every commercial framing shop. They were accompanied by the Lion Miter Trimmer, a cast iron lever-operated shear which shaves the mitered edges of workpieces up to 4" by 6" at any angle desired between 45 degrees and 90 degrees, leaving a perfectly smooth finish with no edge chipping. Invented in the late 1800's, the Lion Miter Trimmer is still manufactured today and sold under the labels of various specialty hardware retailers such as Grizzly, Lee Valley, and Highland Hardware, being marketed not only for use in picture framing, but as a miter shaving machine for any mitered joints within its capacity. I stumbled upon one in nearly new condition at the recycling resale center at the local dumps the other day and was able to buy it for $50.00 USD. They retail for between $300.00 USD and $350.00 USD. I'm looking forward to using this beautiful hunk of cast iron and steel in the near future. It will come in handy for making ship model cases and any other miter work that comes along.
See: https://www.highlandwoodworking.com...an/miter-trimmer-woodworking-tool-review.html for demonstration of use and application details.
Lion Miter Trimmer, photo of Highland Hardware's currently produced copy of the original:
\\
THE JOY OF OLD 'ARN:
As anybody who has ever tried to cut perfectly matched miters for model cases, picture frames, interior trim, or any other mitered corner knows, it's a lot harder than it looks to get a perfectly matched mitered joint without any edge chipping or tear out. Small stuff can be done successfully with a fine-toothed blade on a Byrnes saw if one takes the requisite care in setting up the angles. For anything larger, a shooting board and a sharp block plane will do the job as long as one is careful to come at it from both directions and not cut past the far end and chip the edge. Then, too, it takes some care to get the lengths matching exactly. (I always cut my case frame pieces to length after I buy the glass cut to size from the local picture framing shop.)
Full-size table saws and powered miter saws are much too rough and often not accurate enough to do the job without requiring a lot of trimming to get the angle perfect without any edges chipping. Hand saw miter jigs are a bit better, but not by a lot. There is a tool for solving the problem, save for edge chipping. That is the H.C. Marsh Miter Machine (later Stanley-Marsh #100.) I have been fortunate to have come across two of these no longer made combination miter sawing and assembly jigs over the years, amazingly with their accompanying Disston 26" and 22" backsaws, respectively. I found one in an online auction and another at a garage sale serendipitously a week apart. I bought the second one because it was too good a deal to pass up and will permit me to glue up two corners simultaneously, thereby cutting my "glue setting" time in half. One much appreciated unique feature of this miter saw and vise, which accommodates work up to 4" in width, is that it rotates 360 degrees and tilts 90 degrees which permits moving the joined corner to a convenient angle for sawing a kerf for a spline, drilling for a dowel, or nailing. I bought one of these machines and its saw for $25.00 USD, the other for $50.00 USD. They're running around $300.00 to $350.00 on the tool collectors' market, less their backsaws which can run as much as $250 and up for Disstons in good condition. Not anywhere close to being an essential for ship modeling, but very handy for building wooden framed glass model cases, picture frames, and mitered interior trim. If you come across one for cheap, buy it!
H.C. Marsh Miter Machine (photos from internet)
The Marsh Miter Machine was marketed primarily for picture framing and, back in the day, they were standard equipment in every commercial framing shop. They were accompanied by the Lion Miter Trimmer, a cast iron lever-operated shear which shaves the mitered edges of workpieces up to 4" by 6" at any angle desired between 45 degrees and 90 degrees, leaving a perfectly smooth finish with no edge chipping. Invented in the late 1800's, the Lion Miter Trimmer is still manufactured today and sold under the labels of various specialty hardware retailers such as Grizzly, Lee Valley, and Highland Hardware, being marketed not only for use in picture framing, but as a miter shaving machine for any mitered joints within its capacity. I stumbled upon one in nearly new condition at the recycling resale center at the local dumps the other day and was able to buy it for $50.00 USD. They retail for between $300.00 USD and $350.00 USD. I'm looking forward to using this beautiful hunk of cast iron and steel in the near future. It will come in handy for making ship model cases and any other miter work that comes along.
See: https://www.highlandwoodworking.com...an/miter-trimmer-woodworking-tool-review.html for demonstration of use and application details.
Lion Miter Trimmer, photo of Highland Hardware's currently produced copy of the original:
\\
Last edited:
- Joined
- Sep 10, 2024
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I'm guessing that you mean 3/32", which is the thickness for single-strength glass and would fit into a 1/8" saw kerf. Double-strength is 1/8". 3/16" glass, especially UV shielded, would be very expensive.
You're right! My bad!
Can you tell me the dimensions of the cases you made? I need one for my Victory model and it should be 1500x1000x400 mm. Would this be too big for the technique described? Thanks
Beautiful Job! I was wondering how to cover my cross section when done and I think you found the answer for me!
Rob
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I used a floating shelf, added trim around the edge, and the wall side is open.
Depending on the size you need, here are a couple of options:
There are retailers out there that resell store fixtures. The fixtures may be full cases, or smaller units designed to fit on top of the cases or on shelves. They may be worth stopping, walking through their store and taking a look.
If you are willing to make your own case, another option is to use the plastic out of old frames made to hold posters. They can be found very cheaply at garage sales. Get rid of the frame and the poster and just use the plastic face.
There are retailers out there that resell store fixtures. The fixtures may be full cases, or smaller units designed to fit on top of the cases or on shelves. They may be worth stopping, walking through their store and taking a look.
If you are willing to make your own case, another option is to use the plastic out of old frames made to hold posters. They can be found very cheaply at garage sales. Get rid of the frame and the poster and just use the plastic face.
Yes I think it would be a challenge to make a case such as this for a model as large as yours. I would practice de making smaller cases first and see whether it is viable or not for you.
Thank you, I'll try as you suggest
It just occurred to me that nobody in this thread has mentioned that the use of plastic instead of glass for model cases is frowned upon. The plastics (as well as the silicon adhesive some mention) out-gasses acidic gasses. An acid atmosphere inside a model case, particularly in a case without the required provision for air circulation, causes the deterioration of the model. Even without plastic case panels, materials in the model itself, including adhesives, will also contribute to an acidic atmosphere inside a case that lacks the proper amount of passive air circulation.
See the section on model cases in: HERE TODAY, MAYBE GONE TOMORROW - Ephemeral Materials in Ship Models by Dana Wegner:
See the section on model cases in: HERE TODAY, MAYBE GONE TOMORROW - Ephemeral Materials in Ship Models by Dana Wegner:
This is incorrect information. Museums use plexi cases for their most valued possessions. It does not give off acidic gases per a quick look on the internet:
High-quality Plexiglas (acrylic/PMMA) does not release acidic gases; it's considered non-toxic, acid-free, and burns cleanly to produce only carbon dioxide and water, with virtually no smoke or harmful fumes, making it safe for archival use, though inferior/recycled types might off-gas, and high-heat processing (laser cutting) needs extraction
High-quality Plexiglas (acrylic/PMMA) does not release acidic gases; it's considered non-toxic, acid-free, and burns cleanly to produce only carbon dioxide and water, with virtually no smoke or harmful fumes, making it safe for archival use, though inferior/recycled types might off-gas, and high-heat processing (laser cutting) needs extraction
Just a follow up note. There is off gassing from models over time due, I think, from finishes and glues. I have noted a build up of films on the inside of unvented cases. I always cut some slots along the edge of the base where they will not be easily seen and put felt pats under the base to lift it off the table so some air circulation takes place. This seems to solve the problem.
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- Oct 2, 2025
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Going to the extreme
a 1:48 fully rigged HMS Victory 1765 would require
7' x 6' x2
7' x 3' x1
6' x 3' x2
of high-quality Plexiglas Google AI says the Plexiglas is $20-$40 a square foot.
It would need 141 sq ft for about $3,000 to $6,000 just for the case windows
a 1:48 fully rigged HMS Victory 1765 would require
7' x 6' x2
7' x 3' x1
6' x 3' x2
of high-quality Plexiglas Google AI says the Plexiglas is $20-$40 a square foot.
It would need 141 sq ft for about $3,000 to $6,000 just for the case windows
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Good information all! I will be putting spacers under my case frames.
I'm not a chemist. I'm just an old guy who reads books. I'll put my money on the advice of Dana Wegner, former curator of ship models, Department of the U.S. Navy, Naval Surface Warfare Center, and Rob Napier, preeminent author of the authoritative text on the subject, Caring for Ship Models: A Narrative of Thought and Application. (See: https://seawatchbooks.com/products/...tive-of-thought-and-application-by-rob-napier)
I said "plastics," not "plexiglas." There are expensive types of clear acrylic material ("Plexiglas" is one tradename) marketed as "low emission" types that claim to have lower rates of off gassing, but that's not the point and so not worth arguing about. The fact remains that museum curatorial professionals are sufficiently convinced of the damaging effects of "plastics" of any kind and their potential contribution to the "acid environment" in a display case that they dictate the use of nothing but glass for cases. In any event, there are any number of acidic off gassing sources in a model case, PVA adhesives being a widely recognized one. For this reason, it is their universal consensus is that provision must be made for adequate ventilation in a ship model case to minimize acidic deterioration. Wegner's article (linked in my previous post) directly addresses the scientifically determined formula to calculate the minimum area of ventilating openings in a case sufficient to allow for passive ventilation required to adequately address the problem. You are correct that some museums may use plexiglas display cases. Not all museums follow the recognized curatorial protocols, of course. (And I've seen many ship models in small museums that couldn't remotely be considered "museum quality," as well.) Other museums which may use plexiglas cases may employ active ventilation, temperature, and humidity control systems inside cases in place of passive ventilation.
Any serious ship modeler who has an interest in the preservation of their models will find Rob Napier's book on caring for ship models to be a valuable reference work to have in their library. I highly recommend it. Of course, anybody who isn't concerned about the longevity of their models has no reason not to use plastics in their cases.
Ventilation is a good thing. It sounds like you're addressing the issue well!
My comment addressed "best practices." Lower standards than that are always an included option. The quality of ship models and the respective degree of their appropriate curation spans a near-infinite range, to be sure. I referenced the "100+ year" construction quality standard generally recognized by museum curatorial professionals such as the U.S. Navy's Curator of Models, who is responsible for displaying and maintaining what is probably the largest and most valuable ship model collection in the United States. My comments were not based merely upon assertions of my own personal opinion, which counts for nothing, but rather the published scientific findings of the top professionals in the field, which is why I provided links to the sources I was citing. If your opinion differs from theirs, by all means, take it up with them.
See:
The point is that ventilation must be provided regardless of whether the case is plastic or glass on anything else for that matter. Simply put, "dead air" within a case results eventually in a "dead model." Acidic off gassing comes from a wide array of sources, many within the model itself, especially modernly where synthetic materials are used.
When questions are asked regarding how something should be done regarding ship modeling practices, the best and most complete answer is always the one that reflects the highest standards of practice and level of quality, the "state of the art," so to speak. This does not mean that such is the only way to do it. As the ship model kit industry consistently demonstrates, in deviating from the highest standards there is no limit to how low a modeler may elect to go in terms of practice and quality while remaining satisfied with their efforts. That's purely a personal decision. Similarly, the amount of concern a modeler has for the longevity of his finished work is a purely personal subjective determination. If one doesn't see why there should be any concern for the longevity of their model, then, of course, there's no reason to for them to bother providing for it.