Planking using small nails

[johnv]

Bob Cleek, that is the best analysis of the application of scale to modelling that I have read. Ever. Thankyou! I have saved it for reference.
I would add a small comment.
I made a 1:93 model of Constitution, and did not add anything to mark the presence of deck securing nails or trenails, on the grounds that the scale size of the visible parts on the deck would have been only microns. But the deck looked a bit bland, naked even. A bit fake and toylike.
Currently I am making a scratch 1:72 HMS Bellerophon/Elephant (not decided which yet). I calculated the size of the trenails at deck level to be 0.25mm diameter at the scale. To avoid repeating the nakedness I lasered marks for the trenail "heads" and plank edges and end joins. Photos at different distances are attached. I think that the nakedness has been avoided but would be interested in opinions from others.
When showing the model to other modellers I have noted that they do tend to inspect the deck at a distance, then come in for a closer inspection.
Bob, do you think that while the model size of each trenail is minute, perhaps we should consider acknowledging the visual effect of the sheer number of those trenails?
trenails View attachment 594952View attachment 594953

Hi Gary,
Don't know which "26" you are referring to.
The close up photo probably equates to viewing the full size Bellerophon deck from about 15'/4.5m above. The model deck planks are 3.1mm wide; x72=220mm/9". The wooden trenails in British ships of the era were typically 1.5" diameter at the deck. So yes, I think that the model trenail dots are about the correct diameter. Maybe a little darker than required, but pretty close.
Where in Oz are you located?
Johnv

 

[AllanKP69]

Btw, my fingers and hands are suffering still, from trying to pull the wood through the draw plate. My golf has been really affected as to the result of sore hands. LOL

I usually trim the end of each "stick" to get it started into the largest hole but use pliers to pull it through instead of fingers. I crush a little of the end of each stick as a result but no big deal as it saves my fingers and make things go more quickly.

If there is anything that affects my golf game, including making treenails, I add it my excuse book, which has gotten quite long over the years and comes in quite handy at times. Six of us are heading out on our first trip to St. Andrews in three weeks where I hope to learn some really good new excuses from the locals.

Allan

 

[GaryA]

Gary,

Lots of differing opinions above on nails, treenails, material, size, etc.

Having viewed many superb models in Greenwich, Annapolis, etc...the range of treenail solutions shown in these renowned museums runs a wide gamut too!

Examples of invaluable models with grossly oversized treenails are the POW Bone models in the Rogers collection at the US Naval Academy. In spite of this, they still have a beauty of their own (see below):
View attachment 594975

Some make an attempt at being subdued by trying to make them not contrast too much (color wise). Almost all the period models in these collections seem oversized??
View attachment 594976

Some seem to make the model look like it has chickenpox (IMHO).
View attachment 594978

Other superb examples use no treenails at all.
View attachment 594979

Finally, contemporary models have begun using metal wire to simulate the wood plugs that cover the metal bolts.
View attachment 594980

Any choice you make will be based on your intent: true to scale replica or a piece of art that pleases you.

IMHO, an exact, true to scale replication, would not use any treenails because, as Bob Cleek explains, they wouldn't be visible without high power magnification.

Thanks, Brad. Yes, I think I stated in my last email about " how the owner wants the model to look."
All I say is whatever you do, make sure it is not blatantly out of context to the scale. I guess. I will have to wait and see what I think of doing when I get to that stage. Just trying to find a good person who sells genuine HSS drill bits would put me in a class I want to be in, not what is ok.
Thanks for the photos, the models are very impressive. cheers

 

[GaryA]

I usually trim the end of each "stick" to get it started into the largest hole but use pliers to pull it through instead of fingers. I crush a little of the end of each stick as a result but no big deal as it saves my fingers and make things go more quickly.

If there is anything that affects my golf game, including making treenails, I add it my excuse book, which has gotten quite long over the years and comes in quite handy at times. Six of us are heading out on our first trip to St. Andrews in three weeks where I hope to learn some really good new excuses from the locals.

Allan

Yes, I even did that (Pliers), but the stick parted company, as I had to pull like a bull in springtime to make it work.
I am trying to contact Byrnes at the moment, as their website has a few problems if you don't live in the USA. The reason why the drawplate I use is no good is that, being a tungsten insert in the makeup of the plate when using wire, there must be a taper going into the hole, as it has to be a negative rake. That causes the problem, I think, but I wonder if your Byrnes drawplate has a taper going into the hole as well?

Lucky you, mate. Lovely course. Hope you don't have to find excuses because you have a great day of golf at St Andrews, the home of golf. Never know, you may find a Tiger around the course to give you some tips, if he travels there that is.
Regards
Gary