Good day John!
As I remember we didn't talk about yard tackles at all... about mast tackles - yes , we told about them.
))
As I remember we didn't talk about yard tackles at all... about mast tackles - yes , we told about them.
))
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Airfix Golden Hind 1/72 with added rigging and details
- Thread starter johnlattanzio
- Start date
- Watchers 8
Yet again I screwed up.Good day John!
As I remember we didn't talk about yard tackles at all... about mast tackles - yes , we told about them.
I will check references again. More soon
By my opinion, You can just take as example rigging diagram from book Mayflower and other colonial vessel and copy it on your model... it will be very accurate rigging for GH as well. or use rigging from Mondfeld book - there is very good rigging plan for GH on the first pages in his book and list of rigging lines and belaying points as well.
Yes...by getting the name wrong I wasted much time!
John, don't harry up... You can "print out" or make it in some way to make copy , one of the existing GH rigging plans , and than draw by hand the name of each line on that drawing... line by line /// recently we exchanged book of Abel Tasman vessels by Ab Hoving, there is perfect drawings of different stages of vessel rigging and it makes very easy for understanding all rigging lines exept tie /tie halliard arrangements which shown in continental version but for GH You need to use english variant, the rest of his rigging identical to GH and You can use it as good help in rigging your model...
When I built my first ship, The Endeavour, I went with a dramatically reduced set of rigging. For running rigging there were lifts, braces, sheets and clue lines. This time I hope to add the lines I skipped last time. So I am back to square one concerning all the new lines to be added!
For the Endeavour I glued the yards onto the masts. It turns out that's not how it was done historically
So I have been learning about parrals and slings...
For the Endeavour I glued the yards onto the masts. It turns out that's not how it was done historically
So I have been learning about parrals and slings...
So I think (!) I have concluded reading about parrels and slings. It seems that there is some debate about the spritsail yard! The best guide probably comes form details of contemporary shjips, like The Mayflower and The Susan Constant.
The Mayflower: is listed as having parrals for all yards, including the spritsail yard (Appendix of book by William Baker).
Susan Constant: again, the Anatomy of the Ship book by Lavery says parrels on all yards, including spritsail.
However, Mondfeld and Anderson argue for slings at the turn of the 17th century.
So again, the case is uncertain.
I will go with a sling on the spritsail, if for no other reason than it is certainly possible and it will mark a visual difference to the rest of the yards
The Mayflower: is listed as having parrals for all yards, including the spritsail yard (Appendix of book by William Baker).
Susan Constant: again, the Anatomy of the Ship book by Lavery says parrels on all yards, including spritsail.
However, Mondfeld and Anderson argue for slings at the turn of the 17th century.
So again, the case is uncertain.
I will go with a sling on the spritsail, if for no other reason than it is certainly possible and it will mark a visual difference to the rest of the yards
Bulkheads painted...
I might finish the hull tomorrow.
I might finish the hull tomorrow.
The triangles are taking longer than they should (doesn't everything?) But I am getting better at it. These are looking good. I am using painted red triangles, gluing onto yellow hull. The blue triangles were hand painted (posca pen) onto a white background. They also look OK but the edges are not as sharp, of course. But I think they are acceptable so I will not do them again. Next time (!) I will use paper triangles for all.
One side finished at last!
I will let it all dry and do some touching up later. And then some dull cote matt varnish to unify the different paints used.
Now to do the starboard side...
I will let it all dry and do some touching up later. And then some dull cote matt varnish to unify the different paints used.
Now to do the starboard side...
Hull halves joined together today! Next step is adding a gun deck...
I also added some lead windows to one of the bulkheads.
I also added some lead windows to one of the bulkheads.
I was thinking I might stick a table or something behind the windows but a dry fit shows that it is very dark, and with reflections from the windows, there is no way anything inside would be visible. So that saves me making some furniture!
This is how it is looking during the dry fit.
Although the two hull halves look good when joined together, I forgot that I was adding a gun deck to the interior. That would have been easier if I had not joined them.
So I have been thinking about separating them - acetone and debonder for the CA, and then extra-thin glue to soften the places where I used polystyrene glue and the sprue-goo added for exta strength (sadly...)
But I might not need to separate the halves. When I place the guns in the correct place (see below)...
...it turns out that they are right up against the hull...
So I might be able to put them in place by adding a small supporting deck underneath. This will be a lot easier than trying to make a deck the right shape and install it. Getting the height will be easy because it is right up against the gun port. Pure luck, but it might help me out!
This is easier to see (and no doubt complete!) in the stern piece.
I welcome any suggestions for the best way to proceed!
So I have been thinking about separating them - acetone and debonder for the CA, and then extra-thin glue to soften the places where I used polystyrene glue and the sprue-goo added for exta strength (sadly...)
But I might not need to separate the halves. When I place the guns in the correct place (see below)...
...it turns out that they are right up against the hull...
So I might be able to put them in place by adding a small supporting deck underneath. This will be a lot easier than trying to make a deck the right shape and install it. Getting the height will be easy because it is right up against the gun port. Pure luck, but it might help me out!
This is easier to see (and no doubt complete!) in the stern piece.
I welcome any suggestions for the best way to proceed!
I decided to have a go at the gun deck, by starting with the two guns on the stern section.
In the spare parts box I found a mantlet from an old tank and that was about the right size to make an enclosed area for the guns. Some cutting and sanding and it fitted fine. I added a shelf underneath for extra support.
I had previsouly described how each gun is glued to its carriage *and* wired to the carriage to ensure long life. I also wired the carriage, so holes in the floor allow me to secure the gun carriage to the floor. So even if the glue gives way, the guns and carriages are secured.
Now some styrene for the walls of the gun room, and another piece at the top.
And it looks fine from the outside
Cannons not quite the same height - I made a small error placing the left cannon because of not allowing for the wires - but acceptable I think.
Finally I added some ropes to open the gun ports and it is done.
Yes, there are three holes for each gun port. I was going to use one in the middle, but decided that two fitted the two hinges better. So there is a spare hole for each gun port. But it will not be visible because these ports are under the rear walkway. Which is why I thought they were the ones to start with - enabling practice but hiding errors!
So with that sorted, I decided I had to bite the bullet and separate the two halves of the hull. After some incantations, and prayers to Icky Sticky Debonder...
....I was able to persuade the halves to separate without too much stress and without any damage, I think!
So now to add the rest of the guns...
In the spare parts box I found a mantlet from an old tank and that was about the right size to make an enclosed area for the guns. Some cutting and sanding and it fitted fine. I added a shelf underneath for extra support.
I had previsouly described how each gun is glued to its carriage *and* wired to the carriage to ensure long life. I also wired the carriage, so holes in the floor allow me to secure the gun carriage to the floor. So even if the glue gives way, the guns and carriages are secured.
Now some styrene for the walls of the gun room, and another piece at the top.
And it looks fine from the outside
Cannons not quite the same height - I made a small error placing the left cannon because of not allowing for the wires - but acceptable I think.
Finally I added some ropes to open the gun ports and it is done.
Yes, there are three holes for each gun port. I was going to use one in the middle, but decided that two fitted the two hinges better. So there is a spare hole for each gun port. But it will not be visible because these ports are under the rear walkway. Which is why I thought they were the ones to start with - enabling practice but hiding errors!
So with that sorted, I decided I had to bite the bullet and separate the two halves of the hull. After some incantations, and prayers to Icky Sticky Debonder...
....I was able to persuade the halves to separate without too much stress and without any damage, I think!
So now to add the rest of the guns...
First cannon added. There are 6 on each side and the middle 4 are on the same level; the first and last are a little different.
I have done the first. It has its own little room, which is rather wonky! But it is not visible and it has to deal with the curved hull. Anyway, from the inside it looks like a modern flight simulator has been (poorly) installed in the ship
You can see the wires underneath, holding the cannon to the deck. And lots of CA and some sprue goo to make the deck as secure as I can. The interior is painted black to minimse light.
But from the outside it looks fine.
I will add the gun port lids after I have added the rest of the cannons. I am terrified that they will get knocked during construction. Even the cannons sticking (without the gun port hatches) out are vulnerable, especially while I am adding stuff inside. The sooner it is closed up and sitting in a stand, the happier I will be!
I have done the first. It has its own little room, which is rather wonky! But it is not visible and it has to deal with the curved hull. Anyway, from the inside it looks like a modern flight simulator has been (poorly) installed in the ship
You can see the wires underneath, holding the cannon to the deck. And lots of CA and some sprue goo to make the deck as secure as I can. The interior is painted black to minimse light.But from the outside it looks fine.
I will add the gun port lids after I have added the rest of the cannons. I am terrified that they will get knocked during construction. Even the cannons sticking (without the gun port hatches) out are vulnerable, especially while I am adding stuff inside. The sooner it is closed up and sitting in a stand, the happier I will be!
I have also been looking at the belaying points for the upcoming rig. I think I have got the standing rigging planned. (The easy part!)
Thanks to the legendary Kirill4 for helping me come to grips with the tackles!
Thanks to the legendary Kirill4 for helping me come to grips with the tackles!
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Good day John,
You made me very really fun when call me "legendary" !)) with one assembled model only ))
seriously , there are , on this forum, a few really legendary members making wooden and plastic models on extremelly , fantastic high level!
Regarding current project, I would like to say , may be there is sence to change both positions of 14, hook and running end of the stay tackle and secure both of them( when not in use) somewhere to the lower block of the main stay, to place it along main stay, and to check alternative way how to secure upper block of this MS tackle... as far as I remember , such option was mentioned in Anderson book?
Ps
Look at this picture, solution I m talking about
collection.sciencemuseumgroup.org.uk
You made me very really fun when call me "legendary" !
)) with one assembled model only ))seriously , there are , on this forum, a few really legendary members making wooden and plastic models on extremelly , fantastic high level!
Regarding current project, I would like to say , may be there is sence to change both positions of 14, hook and running end of the stay tackle and secure both of them( when not in use) somewhere to the lower block of the main stay, to place it along main stay, and to check alternative way how to secure upper block of this MS tackle... as far as I remember , such option was mentioned in Anderson book?
Ps
Look at this picture, solution I m talking about
Elizabethan Galleon, 'Elizabeth Jonas' | Science Museum Group Collection
Model ship, with full rigging and figure on deck. 1:48 scale model of the Elizabethan galleon, 'Elizabeth Jonas', built c.1600. Constructed by Science Museum model maker Philip Davies, in the workshops at South Kensington, London, in 1931. The human figure was a later addition made by Barbara...
collection.sciencemuseumgroup.org.uk
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But it is fantastic...Good day John,
You made me very really fun when call me "legendary" !
Yes that is true. I didn't say you were the only legend here
Regarding current project, I would like to say , may be there is sence to change both positions of 14, hook and running end of the stay tackle and secure both of them( when not in use) somewhere to the lower block of the main stay, to place it along main stay, and to check alternative way how to secure upper block of this MS tackle... as far as I remember , such option was mentioned in Anderson book?
Ps
Look at this picture, solution I m talking about
Elizabethan Galleon, 'Elizabeth Jonas' | Science Museum Group Collection
Model ship, with full rigging and figure on deck. 1:48 scale model of the Elizabethan galleon, 'Elizabeth Jonas', built c.1600. Constructed by Science Museum model maker Philip Davies, in the workshops at South Kensington, London, in 1931. The human figure was a later addition made by Barbara...
View attachment 595708
That is a good option. I will think about it. Thanks