HM Cutter Lady Nelson 1:64 - Build Log

[DARIVS ARCHITECTVS]

Cut the balsa blocks into rough, blocky approximates of their final shape using a bandsaw and a few test fits, taking care to make sure all surfaces of the block protrude a little beyond the edges of adjacent frames. This will save you lots of sanding time, even though a 60 grit pad on a vibrating sander EATS balsa quickly. Below are shown the midship blocks for my model. You will probably only need some at the extreme bow and perhaps the stern.



This is the blocky mess I sanded down at the bow. It doesn't start off pretty, but it is at the finish of sanding.

 

[Max Workshop]

Shipmodellers,
It took me entire evening yesterday to prepare one block. The block is not glued.
I wonder if I should sand the block more to be the same as the first bulkhead.
And if I add one more block between 1 and 2 bulkheads.
Feedback is appreciated.

 

[DARIVS ARCHITECTVS]

Shipmodellers,
It took me entire evening yesterday to prepare one block. The block is not glued.
I wonder if I should sand the block more to be the same as the first bulkhead.
And if I add one more block between 1 and 2 bulkheads.
Feedback is appreciated.
View attachment 619350
View attachment 619351View attachment 619352View attachment 619353

That block looks PERFECT. I has the subtle curves which follow the frame and stem, and serves as a 3-D transition. Pre-form the planks individually to fit the hull and the model will stun you with good it will look.

 

[Max Workshop]

That block looks PERFECT. I has the subtle curves which follow the frame and stem, and serves as a 3-D transition. Pre-form the planks individually to fit the hull and the model will stun you with good it will look.

Thank you, Kurt for the quick reply and the feedback

 

[Max Workshop]

Started work on the second balsa block.

 

[DARIVS ARCHITECTVS]

Are you installing blocks on the port side of the model? You should always add filler blocks and then hull planks in pairs, PORT AND STARBOARD. Why? because if you don't, the hull could develope a twist or bend as you add parts. Even the slightest distortion casued by wedging a filler block between two frames will bend the keel, and they would all add up and make a curve in the keel if you filler one entire side with blocks. It's all about balancing the forces and reinforcement provide by the planking. You don't want a warped hull! That can not be corrected later. You're stuck with it if it happens.

 

[Max Workshop]

Are you installing blocks on the port side of the model? You should always add filler blocks and then hull planks in pairs, PORT AND STARBOARD. Why? because if you don't, the hull could develope a twist or bend as you add parts. Even the slightest distortion casued by wedging a filler block between two frames will bend the keel, and they would all add up and make a curve in the keel if you filler one entire side with blocks. It's all about balancing the forces and reinforcement provide by the planking. You don't want a warped hull! That can not be corrected later. You're stuck with it if it happens.

I haven't glued those blocks yet. First one is still can be removed. I make forms, and I will make sure to glue keel blocks on both sides first. Thank you for the advice.

 

[Max Workshop]

Second block sanded, dry fit.

First block in the middle close to the 1st bulkheads probably requires more sanding.

 

[Max Workshop]

Finally, it is ready for planking. 4 balsa blocks were sanded and glued to the positions. 3 hours of final sanding and below is the result.
I hope that I am in a better position to make first planking less painful than when I started.

 

[DARIVS ARCHITECTVS]

Awesome work. Good preparation makes for easy work and these blocks are key when it comes to hull planking.

 

[Max Workshop]

Awesome work. Good preparation makes for easy work and these blocks are key when it comes to hull planking.

Thank you Kurt, I am looking forward to start planking and progress with my Lady Nelson.

 

[Max Workshop]

Hello my dear readers,

For the last 6 days I am working on the hull planking. 2-5 planks per day in the evenings.
5 planks per side to go.

 

[Max Workshop]

Hey,

I passed on the opportunity to buy Constructo HMS Bounty 1:50 kit, for 90 EUR. What do you guys think, was it worth it? The buyer said that the kit is sealed, unopened, and new condition.
I didn't want to buy as I want to have my next build from the plan I have, rather than building what I have. And if I would have bought that kit, it is a bit commitment to finish it. I've read that the kit is dry-cut, not laser-cut, so like ... I understand that it is a bigger model, but older.
And since I have Constructo HMS Victory, I thought that there is little point having one more similar kit.

Any thoughts?

 

[Max Workshop]

Hello, my readers,

I am not if you are still here reading this build log as it is a bit lonely.
BUT, I finished the first part of the hull planking.

I few things a learned:

1. Keel should not be installed before the first plunking. It would have been easier without, and then after planks in place, keel is a next thing to install;
2. There is more than one way to make hull planking;
3. I gained more experience with every next plank prepared and glued;
4. More time for plank preparation - better.

In total it took me around 30-35 hours or 12 evenings.

 

[AllanKP69]

Have you studied any planking tutorials? It will really help you get the planking done correctly without the gaps or edge lifting on your model. One of the best is the four-part video by Chuck Passaro that has been posted here at SoS many times and it really does work.
Allan

 

[DARIVS ARCHITECTVS]

Hello, my readers,

I am not if you are still here reading this build log as it is a bit lonely.
BUT, I finished the first part of the hull planking.

I few things a learned:

1. Keel should not be installed before the first plunking. It would have been easier without, and then after planks in place, keel is a next thing to install;
2. There is more than one way to make hull planking;
3. I gained more experience with every next plank prepared and glued;
4. More time for plank preparation - better.

View attachment 626141
View attachment 626136
View attachment 626137
View attachment 626138
View attachment 626139
View attachment 626140

In total it took me around 30-35 hours or 12 evenings.

We have 27,000 "members" on this forum. Only a tiny percentage make any posts. It may seem like your log is not being read by many, but keep in mind that only a few members makes responses. Congrats on getting the first planking layer completed! Keep in mind that this first layer can contain many unsightly errors, but it will be covered by the second and final layer. By that time, you should be skilled enough to get the pattern of planks laid better and eliminate gaps. Please read the articles attached below and learn some more about planking techniques, particular how to fit planks before attaching them, and watch the video AllanKP69 mentioned so you can see the information in the articles at work. Don't expect your first ship to be perfect, expect it to contain errors, knowing that your second model will improve DRAMATICALLY.

 

[Max Workshop]

Have you studied any planking tutorials? It will really help you get the planking done correctly without the gaps or edge lifting on your model. One of the best is the four-part video by Chuck Passaro that has been posted here at SoS many times and it really does work.
Allan

I did have studied planking materials, including 4 videos by Chuck Passaro.

 

[Max Workshop]

Even Chuck in his second video says "it took me several projects before I figured out what needs to be done to get a plank to lay nicely and flat against all bulkheads".

 

[Max Workshop]

Started sanding the first layer.

 

[Max Workshop]

Used water based crack filler after I sanded a bit