Why? I am still around.
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HMS Victory by Y.T.- Mamoli - 1:90 scale
Beautiful work from a difficult model!
Did you purchase this from Amazon? I wonder if there would be some useful information to help me with my VASA.....
Thanks a lot Y.T. The pictures of the Trestle Tree with all the shrouds, stays and the ropes properly served looks like an illustration from the Book; The Anatomy of Nelson´s Ship from C Nepean Longridge. Very well accomplished! All the other pictures are awesome!
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- Jan 2, 2022
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Yes. I purchased mine from Amazon (USA). The Victory was of a much later date than the VASA, and the work in the book shows the standing rigging, the running rigging but not the rigging of the sails themselves (edited in Y.T. correction). So not sure what help it might be for the VASA.
For me though, the book is a fascinating tour, of all the many many ways they rigged things up. And the amount of design, engineering and work that went into supporting those sails with ropes and wooden poles. In detail. All of it. (Kind of like looking at Y.T.'s pics of his amazing work here on SOS)
Helps me not to second guess the way I'm doing it, if the instructions didn't specify exactly how to rig up your model. But how could that ever happen, right?
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Not true. Book covers all rigging: Standing and Running and even some extras.
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- Jan 2, 2022
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Yes, "running rigging" I should have phrased it differently, and fixed it above ... to quote from the book on page 7 ...
What is not shown?
This book does not cover the rigging of sails themselves. However, it includes some indications of where blocks for sail operation could be fitted, even if the associated ropes only serve their purpose when sails are attached. ...
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For what its worth, I used Longridge's book a lot in building my VICTORY cross section as the plans for the Corel Version were quite poor. I'm also very glad I kept my 15 plan sheets from the full version (Mamoli, pre-fire) I built previously as the standing and running rigging direction were much clearer and considerably more complete. Between the two, I think I built a pretty good representation of the middle of the ship.
You might also want to check out John McKay's book: "100-gun Ship..." and Alan McGowan's one as well. Both are available on Amazon or you might try getting them through inter-library loan if you have a good library where you live. That would save you some money. I was able to do that for both the VICTORY cross-section and the VASA.
I want to share with you my method of making an imitation of eye splice on the rope end. Example I show is for served rope but can be certainly used for unserved rope too. I was thinking about a good method for this for very long time. Now I had finished all my standing rigging and some of running rigging on the Victory model 1:90 scale but good idea came only now. I wanted the method to be not very difficult to do and that it would look decent to my eye.
This is how it is done in real life.
This is how it is done in real life.
Example shows how eye splice is done around the block. First I found good method to hold the block. Then took a piece of preserved rope and wrapped it around the block as shown and clamp the ends with some holder. It is a blue colour holder on the picture.
Then I tied an overhand knot as close to block as possible.
Several more of overhand knots were applied. each next time they were done on the other side of rope loop to avoid bad appearance.
Then the blue holder is removed.
the shorter end of the rope is snapped off a few millimetres close off the tie.
Then the serving yarn was undone up to the tie and snapped off too.
Then three threads of the rope got unwinded.
One of those three threads I snap right off up to the tie.
the second one I snapped halfway to the length of the last one.
Then I continued to make my overhand ties till all three rope threads are totally covered.
Then I apply a very small portion of CA glue.
Then I snapped off the tie ends.
Then I tied an overhand knot as close to block as possible.
Several more of overhand knots were applied. each next time they were done on the other side of rope loop to avoid bad appearance.
Then the blue holder is removed.
the shorter end of the rope is snapped off a few millimetres close off the tie.
Then the serving yarn was undone up to the tie and snapped off too.
Then three threads of the rope got unwinded.
One of those three threads I snap right off up to the tie.
the second one I snapped halfway to the length of the last one.
Then I continued to make my overhand ties till all three rope threads are totally covered.
Then I apply a very small portion of CA glue.
Then I snapped off the tie ends.
This block with brace rope will be tied to yard in same manner with single rope eye splice.
I have a good method of holding the yard for this purpose as well.
I have a good method of holding the yard for this purpose as well.
A few hours and all main and fore yards tackle pendants and braces are done.
Method to hold the yard for tying up the blocks.
Thanks. I see in general, not too many people give a damn of how their rigging looks like. I do. I sometimes cannot go ahead for months because what I do with rigging looks ugly.
This is how tying to the yard looks like.
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Hello fellows,
I use fly tying vise for making eye splice around the block. I give as an example!
Y.T method is very interesting and practical.
Cheers Green
I use fly tying vise for making eye splice around the block. I give as an example!
Y.T method is very interesting and practical.
Cheers Green
Front course sail. Reefs are still to be added. The reefs will be the most tedious task with dozens of sails I have to make. The sails will be not furled. They will be hanging in calm. I found it is interesting that per historical records the head rope is about half diameter of the bolt rope. It is not the same size rope around all edges of the sail. On my sails all is done to scale. The canvas strips are 21" apart (2 feet wide canvas strips with 3" for the seams folding). Tablings are 6". Reefs reinforcements are 8". Head rope is 2.5" circumference. Bolt ropes are 5.5" circumference.
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