I have the same problem with CA. The fumes make me ill. I have windows open but it does help.
I’ve heard that once you’re sensitized to the stuff just a little sets off a reaction. That certainly seems to be the case with me.
Oh well, I never liked the stuff anyway.
This was a nice challenge, and excellent executed Smithy.
Thank you. It’s one of those cases where the easiest way to make a model is to make a real one, smaller.
Well, almost.
I'm about to do copper plating on cyanocrin gel. I know about toxicity, but there are no alternatives for quick fixation. PVA is not always suitable and it leaves traces that are not painted with oil. There is only one way out - good ventilation, protection in the form of a respirator. Plus one life hack, I always glue and apply glue at face level but separately from it. So that the vapors go up but not on the face but away, plus sit downwind))) In no case should you sit over the glue, i.e. over the vapors. And everything should be fine.
Good luck.
I did all of those things and also wore surgical gloves but there was so much exposure every day over three weeks that enough got through to mess me up. I’d been using CA without problems for decades but never in such quantity.
I will lock my rigging knots with watered down wood glue. Wood glue will also hold small photo-etch if the surface is roughened. If all else fails I’ll boil the dog down for glue.
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There is evidence, as discussed in past issues of the NRG journal, that, over time CA applied to brass or natural fiber, converts chemically to acid and will cause the brass or natural fiber to deteriorate over time. Acid is the enemy of archival longevity e.g. the slow desiccation and decay of acidic paper, photographic film stock, ferrous metals, etc. over time. "Rust never sleeps!" Acid free adhesives, while slow setting and not always with the most effective adhesion, are the safer choice. Fast setting and ultraviolet activated epoxies are perhaps the safest fast tack and quick curing alternatives for metals in lieu of CA, with far less toxic vapors. Hide glues, fish glues (Seccotine) and liquid hide glue will safely adhere to fiber or wood, are very strong when dry and are easily reversable with warm water. Got that knot (or wooden part) tied or glued in the wrong place or too soon? Use reversable water-based glues. White glue can be undone with isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol.
Yeah, it's really dodgy stuff isn't it? It can choke you, blind you, tear your skin off, it sticks instantly when you need wiggle time and then won't stick at all when you are in a hurry. Now it seems that it will fall apart down the line sometime. Dunno why we bother with it. Bah!
Long live Titebond, PVA and the one I forgot - epoxy!
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And I'm feeling a lot better today and in a few days I'll be fine. Then I'll give myself a kick up the donkey for being so stupid that I poisoned myself TWICE.
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Its "instant" grab nature can be addicting. But it's worth trying alternatives and workarounds.
And you are right. It grabs too fast when you need a little more time, then won't stay stuck on the next go 'round!
And you are right. It grabs too fast when you need a little more time, then won't stay stuck on the next go 'round!
Its "instant" grab nature can be addicting. But it's worth trying alternatives and workarounds.
And you are right. It grabs too fast when you need a little more time, then won't stay stuck on the next go 'round!
On rigging knots I might try old fashioned gum or clear nail varnish (I’ll save the scarlet stuff for Saturday nights out).