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HMS Alert [1777] 1:48 POF by serikoff. (Two hulls: skeleton and fully rigged)

Due to time constraints, did not do much, but! I have completed exactly half of the body skin, that is, 8.5 belts out of 17... And you can exhale, because I completely finished the whole part over the waterline. And now it remains to make 8.5 belts of only one color from a dark pear, which will be more significant faster!

This is what my favorite symmetry looks like)))

Alert 1317.jpg

Alert 1318.jpg

Due to the fact that the skin boards overlap, the waterline runs smoothly at one angle, and at a different angle...

Alert 1319.jpg

.. due to the position of the boards, the waterline goes with displacements (like on a ladder), which is structurally logical.

Another point that I wanted to describe was the connections of the boards.

Anatomy shows that the maximum length of the skin boards and deck boards does not exceed 18 cm, which is slightly more than usual, but within the permissible norms. I repelled from this indicator. And he made a layout of connections with an offset step of 2-3 belts (basically 3, which gives a more correct and rigid frame due to the maximally spaced connections from each other).

Alert 1320.jpg

I will make a reservation: I connected the first and second belts under the wale in specific places due to the shortage of long boards, therefore these connections are adapted to the general scheme. The rest of the belts (in photo 6 from above) were already clearly connected according to the scheme with a shift from steps to 3 boards (that is, 3 boards without connection (solid) are placed above each connection in the zone of double frames) and only the 4th board again goes with the connection. The photo below is visible on the top 6 belts.

Alert 1321.jpg

Alert 1322.jpg

Here is a visual diagram.

Схема.JPG

I decided to check and at the same time redo the template. The remaining space for boards is 54 mm. If you divide it by 6mm (the width of the board) it will be 9, and this is the number of belts left to set. From the middle to the stern, the values + are the same.

Alert 1323.jpg

In the nasal section, the racks from 6 mm narrow to 4 mm.

Alert 1324.jpg

According to the new template, I will manufacture the remaining 9 belts.

Alert 1325.jpg

As you can see in the photo above, the belts will go + - according to this scheme, which corresponds to the real position of the boards with this method of fixing them.

Now, it remains to glue them in place... let's go!
 
I've never seen a waterline depicted in this way, but I have to say it is brilliant! What a truly clever idea alongside impeccable workmanship!
 
Due to time constraints, did not do much, but! I have completed exactly half of the body skin, that is, 8.5 belts out of 17... And you can exhale, because I completely finished the whole part over the waterline. And now it remains to make 8.5 belts of only one color from a dark pear, which will be more significant faster!

This is what my favorite symmetry looks like)))

View attachment 545900

View attachment 545901

Due to the fact that the skin boards overlap, the waterline runs smoothly at one angle, and at a different angle...

View attachment 545902

.. due to the position of the boards, the waterline goes with displacements (like on a ladder), which is structurally logical.

Another point that I wanted to describe was the connections of the boards.

Anatomy shows that the maximum length of the skin boards and deck boards does not exceed 18 cm, which is slightly more than usual, but within the permissible norms. I repelled from this indicator. And he made a layout of connections with an offset step of 2-3 belts (basically 3, which gives a more correct and rigid frame due to the maximally spaced connections from each other).

View attachment 545903

I will make a reservation: I connected the first and second belts under the wale in specific places due to the shortage of long boards, therefore these connections are adapted to the general scheme. The rest of the belts (in photo 6 from above) were already clearly connected according to the scheme with a shift from steps to 3 boards (that is, 3 boards without connection (solid) are placed above each connection in the zone of double frames) and only the 4th board again goes with the connection. The photo below is visible on the top 6 belts.

View attachment 545904

View attachment 545905

Here is a visual diagram.

View attachment 545909

I decided to check and at the same time redo the template. The remaining space for boards is 54 mm. If you divide it by 6mm (the width of the board) it will be 9, and this is the number of belts left to set. From the middle to the stern, the values + are the same.

View attachment 545906

In the nasal section, the racks from 6 mm narrow to 4 mm.

View attachment 545907

According to the new template, I will manufacture the remaining 9 belts.

View attachment 545908

As you can see in the photo above, the belts will go + - according to this scheme, which corresponds to the real position of the boards with this method of fixing them.

Now, it remains to glue them in place... let's go!
I'm not sure I've seen a better clinker hull... Bravo, my friend!
 
I like the idea of using different colors for the planks of the lower hull. Following the information of the Winfield, the cutter was coppered right from the beginning.
 
magnificent work !
Thank you very much!!!

I've never seen a waterline depicted in this way, but I have to say it is brilliant! What a truly clever idea alongside impeccable workmanship!
Thank you very much. In the manufacture of French ships, the lining of the hull to the waterline is often made of black hornbeam, and below from pear. But so that from different pears I myself have never seen someone do this. So I decided to try)))

I'm not sure I've seen a better clinker hull... Bravo, my friend!
Thanks for the praise. I completely agree, I also did not see anyone make two-tone boards overlapping. To be honest, I myself would have changed my mind, but I had no choice. Due to a shortage of light pear, I could not cover the entire body with it. And I did not want to cover the entire body with a dark one, since the body would be very gloomy, and so... the choice was obvious))

I like the idea of using different colors for the planks of the lower hull. Following the information of the Winfield, the cutter was coppered right from the beginning.
Thank you. Yes, I saw how this ship was covered with copper by modelers. And I may have done so, but I spent many weeks on this process with my Victory and I was not ready to work with copper again))) Plus, I wanted to show the skin to the fullest and it would be blasphemy to close it)) But with copper I think it would also be beautiful, especially aged.

Getting the gain right near the bow and into the rabbet is a great achievement. Beautifully done.
Allan
Thank you. I agree, this is not only correct, but also logical, and also beautiful. Plus, it helps the glue hold the board.


Friends, thank you for your comments and likes. It motivates me to continue sharing my experience and detailed reviews of the build. It'll get even more interesting. ;) :cool:
 
Thank you very much!!!


Thank you very much. In the manufacture of French ships, the lining of the hull to the waterline is often made of black hornbeam, and below from pear. But so that from different pears I myself have never seen someone do this. So I decided to try)))


Thanks for the praise. I completely agree, I also did not see anyone make two-tone boards overlapping. To be honest, I myself would have changed my mind, but I had no choice. Due to a shortage of light pear, I could not cover the entire body with it. And I did not want to cover the entire body with a dark one, since the body would be very gloomy, and so... the choice was obvious))


Thank you. Yes, I saw how this ship was covered with copper by modelers. And I may have done so, but I spent many weeks on this process with my Victory and I was not ready to work with copper again))) Plus, I wanted to show the skin to the fullest and it would be blasphemy to close it)) But with copper I think it would also be beautiful, especially aged.


Thank you. I agree, this is not only correct, but also logical, and also beautiful. Plus, it helps the glue hold the board.


Friends, thank you for your comments and likes. It motivates me to continue sharing my experience and detailed reviews of the build. It'll get even more interesting. ;) :cool:
Hello Serikoff, I would like to ask: from what source did you learn that French ships used black hornbeam wood for their planking? Thank you for your response. Frank
 
Hello Serikoff, I would like to ask: from what source did you learn that French ships used black hornbeam wood for their planking? Thank you for your response. Frank
I probably wrote it incorrectly. I wrote that modelers who built French ships often used a technique in which black hornbeam was used above the waterline and pearwood below. This was done to convey the color scheme without painting, as French models were typically made in this color scheme: black above the waterline (including the power belt) and pearwood below. This applies strictly to the execution of ship models and does not apply to the materials used on real ships, which typically used oak.

Screenshot_20250922_201417_Gallery.jpg
 
Last edited:
I probably wrote it incorrectly. I wrote that modelers who built French ships often used a technique in which black hornbeam was used above the waterline and pearwood below. This was done to convey the color scheme without painting, as French models were typically made in this color scheme: black above the waterline (including the power belt) and pearwood below. This applies strictly to the execution of ship models and does not apply to the materials used on real ships, which typically used oak.

View attachment 546182
Thank you for your reply. From my documents, it seemed strange to me that they would use that type of wood. Frank
 
Well, let's continue... Having reached the sternpost, I decided to completely finish with the stern.

Alert 1326.jpg

First I polished it on the plane...

Alert 1327.jpg

...and then cut off the protruding ends of the boards...

Alert 1328.jpg

...and polished it along the edge.

Tried the sternpost...

Alert 1329.jpg

Alert 1330.jpg

... and as you can see, there is a break in the waterline.

Alert 1331.jpg

I used a blade to cut out a piece of dark pear and glued in a light pear.

Alert 1332.jpg

The result was like this:

Alert 1333.jpg

After that, I still managed to glue the 11th trim belt and...

Alert 1334.jpg

Alert 1335.jpg

...there are still 6 more strips to go. I think I'll work in pairs for 3 days, and the paneling will be finished. All that's left is a good polishing. I'm really looking forward to working on the top section; I'm a little tired of the monotonous work. Sleep
 
Well, let's continue... Having reached the sternpost, I decided to completely finish with the stern.

View attachment 546836

First I polished it on the plane...

View attachment 546837

...and then cut off the protruding ends of the boards...

View attachment 546838

...and polished it along the edge.

Tried the sternpost...

View attachment 546839

View attachment 546840

... and as you can see, there is a break in the waterline.

View attachment 546841

I used a blade to cut out a piece of dark pear and glued in a light pear.

View attachment 546842

The result was like this:

View attachment 546843

After that, I still managed to glue the 11th trim belt and...

View attachment 546844

View attachment 546845

...there are still 6 more strips to go. I think I'll work in pairs for 3 days, and the paneling will be finished. All that's left is a good polishing. I'm really looking forward to working on the top section; I'm a little tired of the monotonous work. Sleep
You made a very nice correction of the break in the waterline, Sergey. It’s all in the details!
Regards, Peter
 
You made a very nice correction of the break in the waterline, Sergey. It’s all in the details!
Regards, Peter
Thank you very much. Yes, I'm finally done with the waterline and will soon be approaching the keel, where things are also not so simple.




Unfortunately, there is a small problem.

Because the kit, or rather the geometry of the frame built from the kit, isn't perfectly symmetrical, there's a 1mm error in the middle section, requiring me to cut another slat that's 1mm wider than the others. This means I'll have to cut the blank at a different angle to make the board 7mm thick instead of 6mm, and then everything in the middle section will be covered. I don't know why this error occurred, but unfortunately, it now needs to be corrected. That's why I started from top to bottom, so that these inconsistencies would be at the bottom and practically unnoticeable.

20250927_233154.jpg

I don't think this error will affect the appearance or symmetry front and back. From the side, the extra 1mm will be indistinguishable, and I wouldn't focus on it unless I needed to make the board wider (which isn't very convenient). Also, I was hoping for this error to be eliminated, but that's not always the case.
 
Thank you very much. Yes, I'm finally done with the waterline and will soon be approaching the keel, where things are also not so simple.




Unfortunately, there is a small problem.

Because the kit, or rather the geometry of the frame built from the kit, isn't perfectly symmetrical, there's a 1mm error in the middle section, requiring me to cut another slat that's 1mm wider than the others. This means I'll have to cut the blank at a different angle to make the board 7mm thick instead of 6mm, and then everything in the middle section will be covered. I don't know why this error occurred, but unfortunately, it now needs to be corrected. That's why I started from top to bottom, so that these inconsistencies would be at the bottom and practically unnoticeable.

View attachment 547101

I don't think this error will affect the appearance or symmetry front and back. From the side, the extra 1mm will be indistinguishable, and I wouldn't focus on it unless I needed to make the board wider (which isn't very convenient). Also, I was hoping for this error to be eliminated, but that's not always the case.
If you had not pointing that ‘1mm issue’ and you had completed the planking by reducing that 1mm over the latest planks……. I think no one would have noticed it.;)
We will see how it looks ar the end now we know it. :)
Regards, Peter
 
But we will know they are there. :cool:

Seriously, what a beautiful model! Thank you so much for sharing with us and going into so much detail about your steps. This is what a build log is supposed to be.
If you had not pointing that ‘1mm issue’ and you had completed the planking by reducing that 1mm over the latest planks……. I think no one would have noticed it.;)
We will see how it looks ar the end now we know it. :)
Regards, Peter
I agree, friends, that the problem is only on paper, and in reality it's a trivial matter. But I was so eager to finish the sheathing, and now I'm cutting boards again. But it makes us stronger, even if it takes time. ROTF ROTF :cool:
 
It is still beautiful work. If you spread that 1mm over the remaining boards, no one will be able to see it. Likely even you, unless you look very close. :)
Your secret is safe with me. :)
Thank you. It won't work to distribute it like that because all the boards are 6mm thick, but it's not really necessary since the tapering is front and back, and everything is symmetrical. The extra millimeter is only in the middle section near the keel, and you're right, no one will notice it.
 
Smart move! Going back to your post #502 you made this possible. Next time I have a lapstrake hull, I will give your method a good try. Beautiful work all around.
Allan
Thank you. Yes, the method works, but you definitely need to check the hull geometry. I checked the horizontal heights and everything was perfect, but the sections along the hull contours weren't quite right. But that's experience, and sometimes it's bitter.
 
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