An opaque paint will block the light, like a flat black.
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My model rr buildings were built from cardstock, usually cut from cereal boxes, very opaque, used bracing inside.
While sleeping last night, I had a dream about those skylight doors. There is still something wrong with them...
First of all, according to the build kit, the doors are too small, resembling cabinet doors.
Besides, what are the slanted hatch lids for?
This morning, I had a closer look at some HMS Beagle plans and discovered that there is a ladder-way from the Captain's cabin to the upper deck.
Aha! So, these doors should be taller. . . I extended the doors and panel to indicate this.
First of all, according to the build kit, the doors are too small, resembling cabinet doors.
Besides, what are the slanted hatch lids for?
This morning, I had a closer look at some HMS Beagle plans and discovered that there is a ladder-way from the Captain's cabin to the upper deck.
Aha! So, these doors should be taller. . . I extended the doors and panel to indicate this.
How many bumped heads?
I was hoping to get a start on planking, but there is still a matter of wiring that runs within the hull area. I need to do the wiring first.
The wiring is for lighting. There are several lights I wish to explore. There are the skylighting areas and the night lights. HMS Beagle did not install any port-starboard (red-green) nav lights. However, it did use lanterns during the night. I will be installing some lanterns in this build. The wiring needs to be fine/thin to conceal it where possible. Yesterday I ordered the wires, and that will take a while to arrive.
I am also still waiting for a book to arrive, HMS Beagle, which has been delayed from the USA. After my recent adventure into constructing the captain's skylight, I realised how little I know about ship design and what to look for. I hope this book will provide me with a better understanding of the construction of the HMS Beagle. I know there is a better book on this subject, but it's too expensive to justify the cost of what I can do with this kit.
About the lighting. AI tells me the following...
The wiring is for lighting. There are several lights I wish to explore. There are the skylighting areas and the night lights. HMS Beagle did not install any port-starboard (red-green) nav lights. However, it did use lanterns during the night. I will be installing some lanterns in this build. The wiring needs to be fine/thin to conceal it where possible. Yesterday I ordered the wires, and that will take a while to arrive.
I am also still waiting for a book to arrive, HMS Beagle, which has been delayed from the USA. After my recent adventure into constructing the captain's skylight, I realised how little I know about ship design and what to look for. I hope this book will provide me with a better understanding of the construction of the HMS Beagle. I know there is a better book on this subject, but it's too expensive to justify the cost of what I can do with this kit.
About the lighting. AI tells me the following...
I got a couple of postal deliveries. Two books arrived, and I am happy to have received them.
Yesterday, I bought a tin of satin clear varnish and a tin of sanding sealer (pore filler lacquer) from the local hardware store.
As recommended by the kit instructions, I gave the deck a coat of sealer.
Yesterday, I bought a tin of satin clear varnish and a tin of sanding sealer (pore filler lacquer) from the local hardware store.
As recommended by the kit instructions, I gave the deck a coat of sealer.
I have Zinzer's premixed shellac sealer (white), and your deck is awesome. Ready to seal the Lobster Smack deck.
Thank you, @11320 Titanic , for kind response. I am using an oil-based sanding sealer and Humbrol enamel paints for my build. I checked with Google AI about shellac and acrylic...
what paint to use on shellac?
I am disappointed with the OcOre's HMS Beagle kit regarding the degree of accuracy.
The kit's scale is 1:60, but parts of the ship are too small for humans of that scale. For instance, the four doors in the aft section are 22 x 13mm. That is, 1320mm (4' 4") high and 780mm (2' 6.7") wide. The cabin interior height is 23.5mm i.e., 1410mm (4' 7.5").
If the 1:60 scale is true, the ship must have been for dwarves.
It does not say much for Darwin's theory of evolution, regarding humans.
Nope, the scale is about right. The average adult male at this time was about 5'6" (1.68m) high and wasn't afraid of ducking his head. And just for the record, even after rising the main deck by 6" (15cm), one could barely stand under it...
Thank you for your response and explanation.
I still cannot get over the fact that even a 5'6" person has to bend down more than 1'2" to get under a 4'4" doorway. Correction, 4'3" doorway, due to doorhead and jams.
Nevertheless, I will base my figurine sizes/scale on your recommendations.
I was able to get a free PDF download of the ATOS book at...
https://vdoc.pub/documents/anatomy-of-the-ship-hms-beagle-survey-ship-extraordinary-243g3u4qjal0
https://vdoc.pub/documents/anatomy-of-the-ship-hms-beagle-survey-ship-extraordinary-243g3u4qjal0
Great! Thank you. That old Mamoli kit of mine might get somewhat tinkered with...
The weather here in Australia has been too hot for me to work on my model without sweating all over it.
From the beginning of this build, I had a few alternative ideas I wanted to implement. One was to remake the stern quarter galley windows to have windows. But I discovered that in reality, the galley windows were fake, built simply as an ornament. To model them to have windows would have been a bigger fake.
I learnt that quite often, while looking at windows, what one sees is a greyish background. So I decided to apply a few coats of clear ultra-gloss varnish to the windows. This produced a glare effect. The photo below shows the glare as white (it's the best my iPhone can reproduce).
From the beginning of this build, I had a few alternative ideas I wanted to implement. One was to remake the stern quarter galley windows to have windows. But I discovered that in reality, the galley windows were fake, built simply as an ornament. To model them to have windows would have been a bigger fake.
I learnt that quite often, while looking at windows, what one sees is a greyish background. So I decided to apply a few coats of clear ultra-gloss varnish to the windows. This produced a glare effect. The photo below shows the glare as white (it's the best my iPhone can reproduce).
Have you thought about coats of polyurethane?
I don't recall whether I did or not, but I do remember asking the paint shop, several years ago, for the highest gloss possible.
However, I did inquire about the following and discovered that the varnish I used is likely polyurethane-based.
