I am wrapping up the Beagle . Starting Rigging. My second ship. I am pleased with her. I am in maine going to stop in Searsport to see if i can find better rigging lines.
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Hello @Powder Monkey , I hope you will share your build of the Beagle with us.
Thanks for your response.
Cheers.
I just finished reading an interesting article about the HMS Beagle and what is known about its refit from a brig to a braque, and other alterations towards a survey ship...
https://www.americanscientist.org/article/h-m-s-beagle-1820-1870
https://www.americanscientist.org/article/h-m-s-beagle-1820-1870
If they do not have what you need, try Syren Ship Model Company https://syrenshipmodelcompany.com/miniature-rope.php
Allan
The kit will be arriving soon, and I want to have my model and display base ready to work on. However, due to restricted storage space, I need to shrink the whole thing down to size...
I have not worked out the display case height. I am leaving that for after the build.
Please excuse the mud maps. I am getting old and cannot be bothered to redraw them.
I have not worked out the display case height. I am leaving that for after the build.
Please excuse the mud maps. I am getting old and cannot be bothered to redraw them.
After posting the above plans, I went on my verandah, with my horses and old floorboards, to cut out the model and display plywood bases.
It's rare to find a straight and flat piece of plywood, so both these sheets have a slight warp factor. I will put them together with each warp opposing the other... hopefully that will nullify.
After screwing the display base to the model base (not glued), I will use this as my temporary model-building platform.
It's rare to find a straight and flat piece of plywood, so both these sheets have a slight warp factor. I will put them together with each warp opposing the other... hopefully that will nullify.
After screwing the display base to the model base (not glued), I will use this as my temporary model-building platform.
Well, the kit arrived.
I know most of you have seen images of opening kits before. So I thought I would skip this part, but I couldn't.
To be honest, my (high) expectations imagined the body of the boat would be larger. I have to keep reminding myself that the body is a smaller part of the whole ship. Anyway....
I know most of you have seen images of opening kits before. So I thought I would skip this part, but I couldn't.
To be honest, my (high) expectations imagined the body of the boat would be larger. I have to keep reminding myself that the body is a smaller part of the whole ship. Anyway....
Well, right from the start, I misread the instructions and began dislodging the bulkheads, getting confused about which part number corresponded to which. Then I noticed a page of instructions showing the numbers to the image of parts.
I got impatient, like waiting for the kit to arrive, but it came early. Or perhaps, as I am getting older, I am developing further symptoms of ADHD.
Anyway, I quickly relearnt how a table can get so clogged up right from the start.
Oh, by the way, I have now decided to number the parts as I need them. Some are too small to be numbered.
I got impatient, like waiting for the kit to arrive, but it came early. Or perhaps, as I am getting older, I am developing further symptoms of ADHD.
Anyway, I quickly relearnt how a table can get so clogged up right from the start.
Oh, by the way, I have now decided to number the parts as I need them. Some are too small to be numbered.
While researching how other builders followed OCCRE's instructions, at times, the deck was not flush with the tops of the bulkheads. I think the problem here is that some of the bulkhead slits are too long and drop into the spine too far.
So I decided not to follow the instructions in this case. Instead, I am going to use the deck as a template jig, and have the bulkheads fit flush to the deck before glueing. But first, I need to draw guidelines on the spine to ensure that the bulkheads will be 90 deg. The following photos show what I mean. I have not yet applied any glue, but when I do, I will use superglue to spot glue the bulkheads all straight and flush. Then, when all looks okay, I will use wood glue as welding-runs.
So I decided not to follow the instructions in this case. Instead, I am going to use the deck as a template jig, and have the bulkheads fit flush to the deck before glueing. But first, I need to draw guidelines on the spine to ensure that the bulkheads will be 90 deg. The following photos show what I mean. I have not yet applied any glue, but when I do, I will use superglue to spot glue the bulkheads all straight and flush. Then, when all looks okay, I will use wood glue as welding-runs.
Nice start, looking forward to more progress.
Jan
Jan
Thank you, @Pathfinder65.
My first deck planking today. I didn't do it like the pros; I suppose I would if I were to scratchbuild one day.
My favourite weights are glass blocks or shapes with a flat bottom. I got them from a secondhand shop. PVC doesn't stick to glass very well, so it doesn't get stuck to whatever I am glueing.
The last planks have longitudinal overhangs. To stop them from curving over a bit, I supported them (not glued) with some leftover template plywood.
My favourite weights are glass blocks or shapes with a flat bottom. I got them from a secondhand shop. PVC doesn't stick to glass very well, so it doesn't get stuck to whatever I am glueing.
The last planks have longitudinal overhangs. To stop them from curving over a bit, I supported them (not glued) with some leftover template plywood.
As I was planking the deck, I got to thinking that at this stage I could use the offcuts to fill in the rest of the deck.
To do so, I need to know where the plank needs to end. I found (online) a five-plank shift method of planking.
I temporarily marked the planks as per the plan instructions. I want to slightly sand down the deck before marking out the joints and fasteners (again).
I cut off all the overhang with a scalpel. But I erred to the idea of using the scalpel to cut out the enclosed slots. Instead, I drilled them out and then used needle files.
To gauge how much to file, I used the pieces that were to be placed into those slots to get a neat fit.
I shortened the extended drill bit to stiffen the drill, so it won't wander if I overlap a hole.
To do so, I need to know where the plank needs to end. I found (online) a five-plank shift method of planking.
I temporarily marked the planks as per the plan instructions. I want to slightly sand down the deck before marking out the joints and fasteners (again).
I cut off all the overhang with a scalpel. But I erred to the idea of using the scalpel to cut out the enclosed slots. Instead, I drilled them out and then used needle files.
To gauge how much to file, I used the pieces that were to be placed into those slots to get a neat fit.
I shortened the extended drill bit to stiffen the drill, so it won't wander if I overlap a hole.
This model will have several lights. Six of them will be mounted into the deck. I will be using 3mm dia clear white light LEDs.
A seventh LED will be located in the wheelhouse area, but it will be red.
I plan to dim the LEDs down from their usual bright recommendations. I have seen too many models using the LEDs at full brightness. I cannot imagine using scale figurines wearing sunglasses in the middle of the night.
A seventh LED will be located in the wheelhouse area, but it will be red.
I plan to dim the LEDs down from their usual bright recommendations. I have seen too many models using the LEDs at full brightness. I cannot imagine using scale figurines wearing sunglasses in the middle of the night.
I was surprised to learn that I didn't make an "Oops!" in post #57; in fact, I made a bigger mistake by not realizing at the time that I needed to cut out another five slots.
Time to assemble bulkheads and deck... But I made another 'Oops!' The LED lights for the two hatches are directly over the spine. I had to cut access slots for when I need to mount them.
After spot gluing everything together snugly, I am now doing PVA runs, starting from the inside corners and working my way out...
Time to assemble bulkheads and deck... But I made another 'Oops!' The LED lights for the two hatches are directly over the spine. I had to cut access slots for when I need to mount them.
After spot gluing everything together snugly, I am now doing PVA runs, starting from the inside corners and working my way out...