Good morning. Whew she is going to look sexy like a Xebec should. Cheers Grant
-
Win a Free Custom Engraved Brass Coin!!!
As a way to introduce our brass coins to the community, we will raffle off a free coin during the month of August. Follow link ABOVE for instructions for entering. -
SUBSCRIBE TO SHIPS IN SCALE TODAY!
The beloved Ships in Scale Magazine is back and charting a new course for 2026!
Discover new skills, new techniques, and new inspirations in every issue.
NOTE THAT OUR NEXT ISSUE WILL BE MARCH/APRIL 2026
Misticque, 1/36 - Build Log by Moreplovac
- Thread starter moreplovac
- Start date
- Watchers 19
Great job with the tape. Very difficult to get a clean line on wood.
I will keep her hidden out of my wife' sight....
Thank you, yes, it is fairly a challenge but I believe primer makes all the differences..
Thank you, it took me more time to clean the airbrush and to cover the areas than actual painting
but the end results are counting..Cheers
Thank you..
- Joined
- Oct 9, 2020
- Messages
- 2,293
- Points
- 488
Air brushing is always like that. YOu have to a lot of setup to do before using the airbrush, but man it makes a nice finish.Thank you, it took me more time to clean the airbrush and to cover the areas than actual painting
Cheers
While waiting for airbrushed colour to dry, I worked on a ship boat... first I glued the mould to piece of plywood so I can extend the hight; I will be using this extra plywood to glue end of a frames to it to hold them in place. The real high of the boat is way smaller than this. After glue is dried, I cut the excess of a plywood on band saw.
First rib in place... I cut the frames planks from a left over plank, soak them in water bath for few minutes and bend them with no tools; glued with CA one end on plywood and then slowly twist around the mould until it reaches the other side. Then a drop of CA hold frame in place. Making sure the CA is only on plywood.
Then I worked on keel, which will be made of a few parts, glued together.
For a bow I need two pieces glued to get enough wood for that boat area which is slightly curved.
Mould curvature will be transferred to the keel and excess will cut/sanded to fit nicely.
The keel is wider than needed, so I will be cutting it once all is dried out. Need to shrink it and thin it as well..
Happy modelling..
First rib in place... I cut the frames planks from a left over plank, soak them in water bath for few minutes and bend them with no tools; glued with CA one end on plywood and then slowly twist around the mould until it reaches the other side. Then a drop of CA hold frame in place. Making sure the CA is only on plywood.
Then I worked on keel, which will be made of a few parts, glued together.
For a bow I need two pieces glued to get enough wood for that boat area which is slightly curved.
Mould curvature will be transferred to the keel and excess will cut/sanded to fit nicely.
The keel is wider than needed, so I will be cutting it once all is dried out. Need to shrink it and thin it as well..
Happy modelling..
The yellow colour is done...
But, unfortunately my attempt to protect internal area of gun openings with small tape on the outside, did not work well; after taking off the tape, I noted higher edge created by the masking tape which now has to be removed.
So now, I am sanding that edge down and will be applying a layer of primer and another few layers of yellow colour. Learned lesson, don't do this method anymore.
Happy modelling..
But, unfortunately my attempt to protect internal area of gun openings with small tape on the outside, did not work well; after taking off the tape, I noted higher edge created by the masking tape which now has to be removed.
So now, I am sanding that edge down and will be applying a layer of primer and another few layers of yellow colour. Learned lesson, don't do this method anymore
.Happy modelling..
- Joined
- Oct 9, 2020
- Messages
- 2,293
- Points
- 488
Not sure if this is helpful or not, but why not paint the frames black instead of trying to take off the yellow?
Thanks for an idea.
I was considering that as well, also small moulding frame around the openings but these hard edge lines are no friendly. With going black, most likely I will still see those paint edges. I already started edge removal so will try this method first. If end result still showing kind of a "stairs" effect between old and new layer of yellow, will go with some other options but regardless, now I am covering gun openings from the inside, with paper...
Yea the yellow doesn't quite match the good job painting the hull. I think you need to not only sand it down, all the yellow but try to get the wood smoother. Sand it very smooth and maybe seal it before painting it again. Avoid adding even more paint to a rough surface. The gunports will get frames and sills still or are they in already ?
Thanks Tony, that is absolutely correct way... I am not quite sure I will be going all the way to sand it to the wood simple because my kit provided veneer planks are very tiny and I am afraid of over-sending them to the point ti need to redo the whole yellow area. On top of that I am also worried that sanding, putty, etc will cause uneven surfaces with the rest of the hull so will try to work with existing surface as much as I can. My whole goal of second planking and paint is to give a bit of an idea of a rough, slightly used ship and wanted to have that distinguished look of painted wooden planks. So will try to continue with existing area and add one or two more, very light layers of paint. At the end if I am not satisfied, I can always do moulding around gun openings, and incorporate them with gun port doors..
Much appreciate your comment..
Cheers
Cleaning up yellow paint that was entered gun openings during airbrushing.. by adding g a layer of red from the inside..the tape prevents leaks from the inside.
I like the way white colour ended up with slightly rough surface. One of my next build is planned to be Bluenose so at that time, the smooth like silk hull is a must..
Not sure what I will do with those triangular water openings, not identical, so will think what else to do. If anyone has any idea pls share... Will also need to fill out those small holes around some openings... not quite happy with quality of kit provided wood for planking, it is very easy to split..
Also, the rudder does not fit properly, so need to add small amount of wood to eliminate wider space between rudder and keel..
In the meantime, continue my venture with ship' boat building... keel is mounted and ready for planking..
Happy modelling.
I like the way white colour ended up with slightly rough surface. One of my next build is planned to be Bluenose so at that time, the smooth like silk hull is a must..
Not sure what I will do with those triangular water openings, not identical, so will think what else to do. If anyone has any idea pls share... Will also need to fill out those small holes around some openings... not quite happy with quality of kit provided wood for planking, it is very easy to split..
Also, the rudder does not fit properly, so need to add small amount of wood to eliminate wider space between rudder and keel..
In the meantime, continue my venture with ship' boat building... keel is mounted and ready for planking..
Happy modelling.
Today I was working on ship head. Like to jump between different ship parts to break the routine, but after airbrush is done, I needed to put my fingers to work... So, first looking into kit instructions.... well, don't want to start again but it is one more failure of kit vendor... Not sure what they suppose to present on this picture but the dimensions are not correct... if these numbers are supposed to be model size, then I think length of part of a head (930mm) will be longer than the whole model itself... same with 565mm width, the whole model is width approximately 250mm.
The next picture shows a bit more light in the end of a tunnel..
.. now, 96mm looks like a correct measurement... With assumption that head presented in the plan kit and not as a picture in manual, is accurate in dimensions, I started to take measurements from it. Scale is 1:36 (at least this is what it says on the kit) but for my purpose to find the 1:1 scale based on kit plan, I have to measure keel length from the plan and actual keel length from model, get to the some online sites for conversion assistance, getting 1:1.45 scale vector. This is useful to convert kit plan drawing to actually model size...
I created a small diagram based on measurements taken..
... and positioned the head rails. After some time I was able to sand the angle on the top. I glued two rails together. Next was to start adding head timbers.
The kit shows few more head timbers, different size that needs to be added. Ok, a bit of head banging but managed to locate proper wood..
Then measurements were converted and small piece of tape was cut in correct size to mark the location of beams.
That is for now, will continue with head tomorrow.
Happy modelling..
The next picture shows a bit more light in the end of a tunnel..
.. now, 96mm looks like a correct measurement... With assumption that head presented in the plan kit and not as a picture in manual, is accurate in dimensions, I started to take measurements from it. Scale is 1:36 (at least this is what it says on the kit) but for my purpose to find the 1:1 scale based on kit plan, I have to measure keel length from the plan and actual keel length from model, get to the some online sites for conversion assistance, getting 1:1.45 scale vector. This is useful to convert kit plan drawing to actually model size...
I created a small diagram based on measurements taken..
... and positioned the head rails. After some time I was able to sand the angle on the top. I glued two rails together. Next was to start adding head timbers.
The kit shows few more head timbers, different size that needs to be added. Ok, a bit of head banging but managed to locate proper wood..
Then measurements were converted and small piece of tape was cut in correct size to mark the location of beams.
That is for now, will continue with head tomorrow.
Happy modelling..