Make your rope on a rope walk

Today I was making very thin thread from Guterman Skala; I used Skala 360 to make 0.2 mm thread.
Skala 360 is as thin as a strand of hair



I discovered that when you make a 3x1 (or 2x1 / 4x1) thread from Skala, the same problem occurs as when using Amann’s Serafil 120/2. When you use a single thread in a strand, you can only make left-twisted rope. This is because you twist the rope against its natural twist when making right-twisted rope. There is a higher risk of breakage during twisting or irregularities. Like this:



But if you turn it in LH the result is a perfect 0,2 mm rope.
Close-up photo; note the wood fibers in the paper below for a comparison of scale.



I used 40 grams of weight, 8% and not 10% before I started the turning of the rope. Both machines in same speed.

Mmmm I can't confirm this Steph, I have no problems doing 3x1 Skala 360 RH rope ... I would try much more weight! I have 1 kg to tow.

I thought Skala 360 was a monofilament? I would have guessed direction wouldn't matter - but of course I am no scholar here...

Dubz Modelling World said:

Mmmm I can't confirm this Steph, I have no problems doing 3x1 Skala 360 RH rope ... I would try much more weight! I have 1 kg to tow.

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When I pull on the sled, there’s already some resistance from its own weight. But 1 kilogram of pulling force??? I’ve never needed that much. The most I’ve ever needed was just 600 grams with a 2.5 mm rope.
I’ve mentioned before that not every rope walk is the same. Many factors come into play, such as the type of rope used to suspend the weight, whether you use pulleys or hooks, whether the carriage has wheels or slides across a surface, the weight of the carriage, the divider, and how much resistance it offers. These factors determine the weight.

dockattner said:

I thought Skala 360 was a monofilament? I would have guessed direction wouldn't matter - but of course I am no scholar here...

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That’s what I thought too; I noticed it right away while spinning—the carriage can’t move backward, only forward. It just sat there, and the threads started to sag. It took a while before the carriage started moving.
When turning to the left, the carriage started moving right away. So when turning to the right, you first untwist the yarn and getting longer; this weakens the yarn, and because the tension is lost, the end result is poorer.

I then took a closer look to see if there was a twist in the yarn, and sure enough, there is. It’s hard to see, and actually I’d need a microscope. Sofar I could see the yarn looks like a ribbon, like an old VHS tape for example, which has been twisted into a round yarn.

I still do a bit of hobby work now and then, such as metalwork.

Hi people,
I'm new in this forum, and enjoying my reads very much so far
Since I've purchased the ropewalk machine discussed in this topic from the super nice Stephan Kertesz , I'm looking forward to soon start making my own ropes with it.
I have a few questions, if you guys don't mind me asking:

1. Where did you get a remote for the ropewalk, and how did you make it work with it?

2. I'm sure I've read it either here, in the instructions for use or in a user's post on FB, but the answer is escaping me... in order to make RH-laid rope, you first need to run the four-hooks module LH until the threads reduce a certain % amount of the initial length. Once you have achieved that, the twisting is stopped. Then the one-hook module is started with an RH spin. As that spins, does the four-hook module also need to spin? And if it does, I suppose it's LH if my original assumption is correct.

3. Provided that the above is all correct (and I'm not sure, or I wouldn't be asking ) how do you set the spin speed? There's no indicator on the ropewalk. And how do you get the two modules to spin at the same speed, assuming they do have to spin at the same speed?

Thanks in advance if someone can find some time to reply to this. If not, no problem. I'll repropose the same questions over and over again until some good soul will answer eventually ... just kidding

Nice to see you here Chris

Krill80 said:

1. Where did you get a remote for the ropewalk, and how did you make it work with it?

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I use an extension cord with multiple outlets and an on/off switch. But you can also find those click-to-click systems at the hardware store that let you turn your home lighting on and off using a remote control.

Krill80 said:

2. I'm sure I've read it either here, in the instructions for use or in a user's post on FB, but the answer is escaping me... in order to make RH-laid rope, you first need to run the four-hooks module LH until the threads reduce a certain % amount of the initial length. Once you have achieved that, the twisting is stopped. Then the one-hook module is started with an RH spin. As that spins, does the four-hook module also need to spin? And if it does, I suppose it's LH if my original assumption is correct.

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The machine is designed and configured so that you must set both machines to position 1 to make RH rope or to position 2 for LH rope/cable.
For example, RH rope:
Start with only the machine with 4 hooks in position 1 until the length is reduced by 10%. Then start the second machine with 1 hook, also in position 1. Both machines must run simultaneously from the 10% point. See also my instructional video. Make sure the potentiometers on both machines are set to roughly the same position. In other words, the speed of the machines should be approximately the same.

Krill80 said:

3. Provided that the above is all correct (and I'm not sure, or I wouldn't be asking ) how do you set the spin speed? There's no indicator on the ropewalk. And how do you get the two modules to spin at the same speed, assuming they do have to spin at the same speed?

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There isn't an indicator, but it doesn't need to be that precise. Set both to the maximum position or turn the potentiometers to the same setting. The voltage, motors, and electronics are the same on both machines, so the power supply is also the same. Generally speaking, you’ll want the machine with one hook to run slightly faster, and because it runs freely—without gears—it will also be slightly faster when the potentiometers are set to the same position. It’s a matter of developing a feel for it.

Succes! If you have more questions just asked.

Awesome, thanks for the detailed replies Stephan. It's nice for me to also be here. I've reached out to Phillip and he was super nice to get into a video call with me and provide some practical demonstration of how it all is supposed to work.

Krill80 said:

Awesome, thanks for the detailed replies Stephan. It's nice for me to also be here. I've reached out to Phillip and he was super nice to get into a video call with me and provide some practical demonstration of how it all is supposed to work.

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In the discription/pdf I send you there is also a step by step explanation and that belongs to this video: