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Looks like a fun little ship to make. It's just a matter do you want that exact model or only type of vessel. From what I see those from Paul's link is different
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Soleil Royal by Heller - an Extensive Modification and Partial Scratch-Build by Hubac’s Historian
- Thread starter Hubac’s Historian
- Start date
- Watchers 86
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- 1689 heller hubac refit soleil royal
I see that Drydock offers a nice kit of the Hayling Hoy:
drydockmodelsandparts.com
I do, however like the particular sheer and half oval ports of the NMM model. Anyway, food for thought.
And, yes Chris, I am a fan of L’Amarant. There’s a beautiful German build from the monograph, out on the web.
Hayling Hoy 1760 1:48 - PEARWOOD VERSION
Shipping is included in the total price!! Please allow 14 -21 days to fulfill the order!! The product is shipped from China!! Dimensions Scale: 1:48 Length Overall: 675.5mm Height Overall: 653mm Width Overall: 341mm Width of Hull (only): 135mm Length of Hull (only): 488mm) Level: Intermediate...
drydockmodelsandparts.com
I do, however like the particular sheer and half oval ports of the NMM model. Anyway, food for thought.
And, yes Chris, I am a fan of L’Amarant. There’s a beautiful German build from the monograph, out on the web.
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greetings...just taking a quick peek at your miracle build, then running away, cause it's just too painful for me to watch....simply amazing is all i can say....cheers to you always.....
Thank you, Vic! How are you feeling these days?
I have to say that I’ve really enjoyed myself the past two weeks. I’ve managed to turn-out all of the yard arms, with the exception of the fore and main t’gallant yards. I was hoping to recover those yards from off-cuts of the topmast and t’gallant mast fabrication. I also roughed out the main topmast, and this has me really excited!
Here are the yard arms. From left to right, you have the sprit-mast through the mizzen mast:
As with everything, I got better and faster at this, as I went. The third yard from the left is the fore topmast yard. I was a little over-zealous in my initial planing of the central octagonal flats, and I removed too much material on one flat. As I will paint these yards black, I decided to recover the piece with a little BONDO. The repair isn’t perfect, but it’s good enough and I can conceal it aft, and facing toward the deck. I don’t have a lot of this clear cherry, and I didn’t want to waste any.
Along those lines, the mizzen lateen yard is a little ovoid, in cross-section, for the middle third of the yard. Otherwise, though, the yard has no shadow-revealing hollows or bumps, so I decided to keep it. Again, I can orient the yard in a way that displays its correct maximum breadth.
The scaling of the upper masts is a direct take-off from the St. Philippe 1:48 plan-set, which I have reduced by 50% to 1:96. If I were a math-brain, I would not be impressed at all that the actual 1:48 length of topmast (17”), reduces perfectly to 8 1/2”, at 1:96. It does, naturally, and there is something magical about that to me. Perhaps it is because I can actually understand the simple math in my head
I honestly can’t remember whether I lengthened the lower main mast section, above the main deck, by 1/2” or 3/4”. The overall objective was to make it plausible for the topmasts to be lowered through the main tops and removed. As Heller has designed this kit, that is not remotely possible. Weirdly, the Heller fore topmast is a solid 1/16” LONGER than the main topmast. At scale, the Heller main topmast is 7/8” (7 scale feet!) longer than that of the SP. It actually works out perfectly that the 8 1/2” SP topmast can be perfectly maneuvered around the main bitts.
Anyway, it was fun to rough out the topmast, and in the pictures below, you can begin to get a sense of the overall height of the model. Keep in mind, that part of my calculations for the mast height factored-in the shorter than Heller t’gallant masts. Significantly shorter.
The net result of widening the lower fore and main tops, as well as shortening the fore and main topmasts to plausibly workable dimensions, will be a visually credible spread of the topmast shrouds. As Heller has modeled it - it is nearly a vertical climb.
Anyway, little by little, we are getting there! Thank you for your interest and for stopping by.
Here are the yard arms. From left to right, you have the sprit-mast through the mizzen mast:
As with everything, I got better and faster at this, as I went. The third yard from the left is the fore topmast yard. I was a little over-zealous in my initial planing of the central octagonal flats, and I removed too much material on one flat. As I will paint these yards black, I decided to recover the piece with a little BONDO. The repair isn’t perfect, but it’s good enough and I can conceal it aft, and facing toward the deck. I don’t have a lot of this clear cherry, and I didn’t want to waste any.
Along those lines, the mizzen lateen yard is a little ovoid, in cross-section, for the middle third of the yard. Otherwise, though, the yard has no shadow-revealing hollows or bumps, so I decided to keep it. Again, I can orient the yard in a way that displays its correct maximum breadth.
The scaling of the upper masts is a direct take-off from the St. Philippe 1:48 plan-set, which I have reduced by 50% to 1:96. If I were a math-brain, I would not be impressed at all that the actual 1:48 length of topmast (17”), reduces perfectly to 8 1/2”, at 1:96. It does, naturally, and there is something magical about that to me. Perhaps it is because I can actually understand the simple math in my head
I honestly can’t remember whether I lengthened the lower main mast section, above the main deck, by 1/2” or 3/4”. The overall objective was to make it plausible for the topmasts to be lowered through the main tops and removed. As Heller has designed this kit, that is not remotely possible. Weirdly, the Heller fore topmast is a solid 1/16” LONGER than the main topmast. At scale, the Heller main topmast is 7/8” (7 scale feet!) longer than that of the SP. It actually works out perfectly that the 8 1/2” SP topmast can be perfectly maneuvered around the main bitts.
Anyway, it was fun to rough out the topmast, and in the pictures below, you can begin to get a sense of the overall height of the model. Keep in mind, that part of my calculations for the mast height factored-in the shorter than Heller t’gallant masts. Significantly shorter.
The net result of widening the lower fore and main tops, as well as shortening the fore and main topmasts to plausibly workable dimensions, will be a visually credible spread of the topmast shrouds. As Heller has modeled it - it is nearly a vertical climb.
Anyway, little by little, we are getting there! Thank you for your interest and for stopping by.
She looks great, Marc!
Hi Marc
Just dropping by for a catch up. Glad to see you are back at the model table my friend and excellent work. If you are going for a full rig, then I would be tempted to mount the model in it's finished seascape to avoid damage if you do things the other way around.
On another note, my SR will be coming back out to play in the coming weeks as I am feeling the urge to continue after a three year sabatical
Biggest issue now, is getting my head back into where I was. Note to self, make notes as you go just incase, especially when there are no instructions
Just ordered some fresh Boxwood and Blue Tulipwood veneer, now to reread my log several times before committing to the tools
Kind Regards
Nigel
Just dropping by for a catch up. Glad to see you are back at the model table my friend and excellent work. If you are going for a full rig, then I would be tempted to mount the model in it's finished seascape to avoid damage if you do things the other way around.
On another note, my SR will be coming back out to play in the coming weeks as I am feeling the urge to continue after a three year sabatical
Biggest issue now, is getting my head back into where I was. Note to self, make notes as you go just incase, especially when there are no instructions
Just ordered some fresh Boxwood and Blue Tulipwood veneer, now to reread my log several times before committing to the tools
Kind Regards
Nigel
I’m waiting patiently for you to resume your work on the Sovereign of the Seas, Nigel. That hull of yours is incredible!
Thank you, Chris and Nigel!
Nigel, that is exciting news about SR! What I last remember was that you were making horn shade lanterns for the lower deck. I will very happily watch your progress.
As for how to rig my model without damage, I will probably make a foam board enclosure that it lives inside of for the process.
Unfortunately, I have to move the model around the apartment, in order to work on it, do setting it in its sea isn’t really an option. For now, it is able to live in its construction box, which is usually stacked with assorted laundry.
The plan is to get all the masting and spars finished and prepped with blocks so that rigging can proceed at some degree of pace.
Nigel, that is exciting news about SR! What I last remember was that you were making horn shade lanterns for the lower deck. I will very happily watch your progress.
As for how to rig my model without damage, I will probably make a foam board enclosure that it lives inside of for the process.
Unfortunately, I have to move the model around the apartment, in order to work on it, do setting it in its sea isn’t really an option. For now, it is able to live in its construction box, which is usually stacked with assorted laundry.
The plan is to get all the masting and spars finished and prepped with blocks so that rigging can proceed at some degree of pace.