- Joined
- May 17, 2025
- Messages
- 30
- Points
- 68
beautyful build. I am loving fishing vessels so this is one of my favourits
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- Joined
- Apr 10, 2020
- Messages
- 152
- Points
- 213
Update 15
Almost all of the internal frames and strakes have been installed.
Here’s a look at the bow:
An inner stem will be added in the middle to seal the gap in the third strake.
And the stern:
Two more strakes need to be added here.
And an overview:
Next up is a lot of sanding, then attaching all the nails on the outside, and finally covering the inside.
To be continued.
Almost all of the internal frames and strakes have been installed.
Here’s a look at the bow:
An inner stem will be added in the middle to seal the gap in the third strake.
And the stern:
Two more strakes need to be added here.
And an overview:
Next up is a lot of sanding, then attaching all the nails on the outside, and finally covering the inside.
To be continued.
- Joined
- Nov 27, 2024
- Messages
- 140
- Points
- 113
Keep at it, my friend! Looking great so far.
- Joined
- Apr 10, 2020
- Messages
- 152
- Points
- 213
Update 16
Lately, I’ve been doing nothing but carpentry. All the planks of a bomschuit are nailed together at the overlapping sections. A gangway is 85 cm on average, and I have 12 and a half of them on both sides. In reality, the nails are spaced 10 cm apart, so on the model they’re 5 mm apart. That comes to a total of 2 × 12.5 × 85 × 2 = 4,250 nails. For a standard bomschuit, it was stated that 3,500 rivet nails were needed. So that’s roughly correct.
The riveting was done as follows:
A rivet had a square cross-section with sides measuring 1 cm (3/8 “) and was galvanized at the shipyard. They were driven in from the outside toward the center. (1) Next, a “rose” was placed over the tip (a small square plate with a hole in the center). A hammer with a hole was placed over the nail tip and struck firmly with another hammer so that the two planks were sealed watertight against each other (2). Then, using the hammer with the hole, the tip was bent over and snapped off (3). Next, the broken-off tip was flattened (riveted) using two hammers alternately, while a third hammer held it in place from the outside (5).
On my model, I simply hammered in two small round nails with rounded heads per centimeter, after pre-drilling the holes. This produces the following result:
The stern:
The bow:
Port side:
Starboard side:
Bottom:
Inside:
Here you can see why I attached the wooden strips first and then the nails.
If I hadn’t done that, I would have had to hammer all the nails flat first before I could install the wooden strips. That would have been much more difficult. Now you can see some of the nails sticking out of the wall, while others are nailed into the wooden strips.
The interior paneling simply goes over this. Except for a small section, which is left open to show a bit of the structure.
To be continued
Lately, I’ve been doing nothing but carpentry. All the planks of a bomschuit are nailed together at the overlapping sections. A gangway is 85 cm on average, and I have 12 and a half of them on both sides. In reality, the nails are spaced 10 cm apart, so on the model they’re 5 mm apart. That comes to a total of 2 × 12.5 × 85 × 2 = 4,250 nails. For a standard bomschuit, it was stated that 3,500 rivet nails were needed. So that’s roughly correct.
The riveting was done as follows:
A rivet had a square cross-section with sides measuring 1 cm (3/8 “) and was galvanized at the shipyard. They were driven in from the outside toward the center. (1) Next, a “rose” was placed over the tip (a small square plate with a hole in the center). A hammer with a hole was placed over the nail tip and struck firmly with another hammer so that the two planks were sealed watertight against each other (2). Then, using the hammer with the hole, the tip was bent over and snapped off (3). Next, the broken-off tip was flattened (riveted) using two hammers alternately, while a third hammer held it in place from the outside (5).
On my model, I simply hammered in two small round nails with rounded heads per centimeter, after pre-drilling the holes. This produces the following result:
The stern:
The bow:
Port side:
Starboard side:
Bottom:
Inside:
Here you can see why I attached the wooden strips first and then the nails.
If I hadn’t done that, I would have had to hammer all the nails flat first before I could install the wooden strips. That would have been much more difficult. Now you can see some of the nails sticking out of the wall, while others are nailed into the wooden strips.
The interior paneling simply goes over this. Except for a small section, which is left open to show a bit of the structure.
To be continued
A lot of labour works, but the result is impressive, Jan. A few to go and then another chapter is done.
Regards, Peter
Great work.
That's a lot of little nails.
That's a lot of little nails.
- Joined
- Apr 10, 2020
- Messages
- 152
- Points
- 213
Update 17.
It’s been quite a while since the last update. Well, there were a few things that came up in the meantime, like an exhibition at the Maritime Museum. But we’re moving forward in good spirits.
All the frames and timbers are in place, and the next step is the ceiling planking, also known as the “wegering.” Right next to the keelson, a section of the ceiling plaking can be removed.
I suspect this is so you can access the bottom to clean and dry it. The pump will be installed here in the stern later on.
The instructions call for loose planks, but I decided to make them glued against each other. The cross slats on the keelson mark the spots where the transverse bulkheads will later be installed to divide the hold into compartments. On the top half of the picture mouonting the ceiling planking has started.
The inside of the stern is fitted with the inner stem. In the real boat, this is secured from the outside in with long bolts passing through the entire stem and fastened from the inside with nuts.
Here, I filed the head of a small nail into a square shape and tapped it through a small copper plate into a pre-drilled hole.
A strip with bolt heads will also be attached to the outside of the stems.
From the side, it looks like this:
The fore stem is similarly fitted with an inner stem secured by bolts.
On the inside of the bow, you can see how I'm going to attach the ceiling planking there.
Right next to the inner stem, a batten from the ceiling runs vertically. Next to it are a series of vertical battens, running perpendicular to the frames. These extend to the batten positioned at the junction of the horizontal and vertical frames. The battens of the side ceiling run horizontally against it there.
This pattern seems most logical to me, though it cannot be deduced from the construction drawings.
To make part of this structure visible later on, I’m leaving a small section next to the stem untouched. Later, the crew’s bunks will abut this area.
This photo provides a nice illustration of how this was done in the past.
To be continued.
It’s been quite a while since the last update. Well, there were a few things that came up in the meantime, like an exhibition at the Maritime Museum. But we’re moving forward in good spirits.
All the frames and timbers are in place, and the next step is the ceiling planking, also known as the “wegering.” Right next to the keelson, a section of the ceiling plaking can be removed.
I suspect this is so you can access the bottom to clean and dry it. The pump will be installed here in the stern later on.
The instructions call for loose planks, but I decided to make them glued against each other. The cross slats on the keelson mark the spots where the transverse bulkheads will later be installed to divide the hold into compartments. On the top half of the picture mouonting the ceiling planking has started.
The inside of the stern is fitted with the inner stem. In the real boat, this is secured from the outside in with long bolts passing through the entire stem and fastened from the inside with nuts.
Here, I filed the head of a small nail into a square shape and tapped it through a small copper plate into a pre-drilled hole.
A strip with bolt heads will also be attached to the outside of the stems.
From the side, it looks like this:
The fore stem is similarly fitted with an inner stem secured by bolts.
On the inside of the bow, you can see how I'm going to attach the ceiling planking there.
Right next to the inner stem, a batten from the ceiling runs vertically. Next to it are a series of vertical battens, running perpendicular to the frames. These extend to the batten positioned at the junction of the horizontal and vertical frames. The battens of the side ceiling run horizontally against it there.
This pattern seems most logical to me, though it cannot be deduced from the construction drawings.
To make part of this structure visible later on, I’m leaving a small section next to the stem untouched. Later, the crew’s bunks will abut this area.
This photo provides a nice illustration of how this was done in the past.
To be continued.
- Joined
- Jul 18, 2024
- Messages
- 528
- Points
- 353
Oh. Nice with the image of the workers. Good comparison. And you’re doing a top job.