AKERBOOM 1681 after Ab Hoving nominally 1/66 but drawings in 1/64

[Iterum]

Hello my dear Friends,

today I started with a doubt in my mind:

Is this cut right? Isn't it to show the edge of the deck? And the same question is certainly for the deck above, too.

I am totally irritated. Can I please get some help?

 

[Ab Hoving]

If you are not planning to make a lower deck, just leave it out. You dont need it.

 

[Ab Hoving]

You do need the upper deck. Leave it as is.

 

[Iterum]

If you are not planning to make a lower deck, just leave it out. You dont need it.

So I do glue the carriages' dummies from insinde against the "planking" for the lower deck?


By this I do have a pivot for any 24 pounder gun barrels to be glued onto?

 

[Iterum]

You do need the upper deck. Leave it as is.

All right, Ab! Thanks a lot.

 

[Ab Hoving]

I thought you wanted to keep the lower gunports closed. If you do want to place guns there you might also mount a 'wall' one or two centimeters behind the gunports and attach your barrels there.

 

[Iterum]

That is an interesting solution - as with the old Airfix HMS PRINCE! Just better as deeper.

I have learned by zu Mondfeld and before at the NMM guided visit in 1984:

A.
all gunports lids at all decks are open and all barrels run out (deciding for chease guns and transom guns - leaving the most fore and aft' side gunports empty!)

B.
all gunport lids stay closed and guns secured with barrel up and fixed by ropes to position

C.
hull model (Admirality Style) with open lids but without guns and deck furniture (Marshall paintings of Georgian ship models)

D.
hull/block model (simplyfied type) with gunports drawn only onto the hull to imagine "closed lids".


Did I foreget about anything inbetween?

So I did think about version A. or C. If this is possible for a Dutch shipmodel.

 

[Steef66]

Did I foreget about anything inbetween?

A ship on anchor will have the gunports open or half open to get fresh air in. Also a nice setup. You can also set the yards in a position to tackle load out or in.

 

[Ab Hoving]

Of course there is always the Solomon's solution: make one side with ports closed and the other with protruding guns.

 

[Iterum]

That are reasonable solutions - thanks you very much!

 

[Iterum]

GIDEON 1664 - 1/64 in 2mms cardboard



Dear Friends,

due to effectivity reasons l decided to use my "friday group" (participating of a room of a sewing group near my flat) to go also for the 140' bestek - and trying 2,00 mms book binders cardboard and archiving real progress by having a contemplativ atmosphere of concentration surrounding me for good:


In here aiming for the "GIDEON 1664" - so I do not have to interchange between three different ships - but only between JACINTHE 1823 and two Dutch transoms as recent model builds.


So further on I will given a bolden nameplate GIDEON or AKERBOOM above the article to distinguish the projects for your (and me).


'Do not bite more than you can cew!"

And I did got a special pink cutting board being to the only man in a herd of (partly very grumpy) ladies fighting their sewing maschines:

So here we are now - next stop Hobby Store purchasing 2mm book binder cardboard for this card yard. By this figuring out and undoing the question: And it is really easier to work with due to the clear measurement of 2mms?

 

[Iterum]

Purchased ten pices of DIN A2 book binders cardboard - measurements:
420 × 594 ×2 mms

 

[Ab Hoving]

I think you lost me Chris. Gideon? Yacinthe? 2 mm card? Don't you think 1 mm is much easier to cut?
Following you with great interest.

 

[Iterum]

Oh, Ab, sorry to irritated you.


I decided to try my table saw KS230 on this job - and it does work. Yes there is dust - that's the very big difference.

So I do get all the straight slots faster and easier, so I can bring more effort into the curves. My good old disk sander will also come very handy, hopefully.


For power tools it is out of intrest if the cardboard is 1, 1.5 or 2mms thick...
I just have to harden it on the backside to avoid a tearing out to the material while cutting. The wooden Idea of glueing a tapestripe to the back didn't help - so I will given super glue a try.

Edit: Turning the steering wheel


And it doesnt work as thought, Ab, you are so right!
.
P S.:
I tryed the scalpel N°11 on 1,5mm cardboard and needed


26 minutes for the N°"B" to be cut out;



after this there came bulkhead "C" with an invested time of 19 minutes, so the cutting is becoming much faster after 2-1/2h for the first bulkhead - now we can talk about "progress"

Too tired to continue this night but very happy about the third bulkhead been cut.

 

[AnobiumPunctatum]

Why don‘t you use plywood or MDF for the frameing? You give now up everything what paper modeling makes so attractive. I can not see any reason to make it so complicated.

 

[Iterum]

Why don‘t you use plywood or MDF for the frameing? You give now up everything what paper modeling makes so attractive. I can not see any reason to make it so complicated.

You are right Christian, I had had to given it a trial - and hoped for a Booster onnthebstraigtj Cuts but failed!
And yes it is right the tidyness of wirking without dust is really the big benefit of the use cardboard - even without an admirality getting grumpy at the vacuumcleaner...

 

[Iterum]

Dear Ab,

when using the decks' line I get quite a horizontal deck - I didn't find an answer in your building log of AKERBOOM how you brought the maindeck in the right hight - distance between CWL and deck shows the "flow" of the deck's line:

All I do get right is the humpback of the deck so the water will run to the scuppers Port and starboard. But I am in doubt about the after part - there the deck is rising much more than towards the stem - or am I missing something!?

 

[Ab Hoving]

Oh, Ab, sorry to irritated you.

No, not al all, I just lost track when you mentioned other ship's names. I thought what is he planning now?

And using machines is no problem at all. In model building the name of the game is 'problems solving' all the way and that is a synonym for creativity, a very good way for healing.

By the way, for cutting 2 mm cardboard you need something sturdier than a scalpel. Try a good old Stanley knife, preferably with breaking blades, so you can quickly replace the sharp edge. Cardboard causes knives to become dull quite quickly. And the good thing is that there will be no dust at all.

 

[Ab Hoving]

or am I missing something!?

No you are right. But that's the way it was.

 

[Iterum]

No you are right. But that's the way it was.

Sorry, Ab for the silly question; there is really no need to lift the cut out "deck bow" to imitate the upped deck going upwards to the ship's stem?


I do think about the stern side bulkheads, where the deck* is shown (redly crossed) as a tilted area to us:

Or is it negligible on the bow half of the deck?


I can easily take the hight of the deck from the centerboard by a pair of compasses...


...and then add the individual hight as top of the deck's curve into the sepcific bulkhead. I think that is something I missed totally untill now to think about, didn't I?

_______
*only showing the gundecks for a clearer view