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American Scout C-2 Cargo Ship by Sterling Models

I decided against using bass wood for the sides. What I bought wasn’t long enough or pliable enough. I will cut about 2/5 of it off from the bottom. I’ll scab where needed to strengthen the hull first. image.jpg
 
you need a wood sealer that you should be able to get at a hardware store, lumber yard, home depot or similar. what type of paint are you going to use, latex or oil based?
 
you need a wood sealer that you should be able to get at a hardware store, lumber yard, home depot or similar. what type of paint are you going to use, latex or oil based?
Latex is easier. That’s something I’ll have to discuss with the owner. He might be interested in using an air brush. I don’t have any experience with that yet.
 
I have never used a wood sealer. I use paint instead. I like the Tamiya primer paints, but any rattle can or brush applied flat paint should work. Paint it and sand, additional coats, until the grain disappears. You will remove nearly all of the first couple of coats. Before priming, you will need some high strength “goo” to fill those vertical seams between mid body and fore end, and I assume at the stern. Otherwise expansion and contraction will cause cracks to reoccur. I would use thickened epoxy.

Roger
 
I agree with Roger about the thickened epoxy for the deeper seams, however I would recommend a thinned out epoxy to fill the pores in the wood grain. After this treatment give it a good sanding and when you are happy with the surface consider a primer and paint combination.

Jim
 
Jim has a point as I have not used balsa as a modeling material since high school era tissue covered airplanes. Thin epoxy will help to strengthen the hull structure. Epoxy is also considered to be compatible with both oil based and acrylic paints.

Roger
 
The hull of the model that I’m working on now was sealed with a two part epoxy tank liner left over from painting a fiberglass sailboat hull.

Roger
 
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