Very nice Mirek : D It was just what I was looking for, thanks a lot!!!Witaj
Mam jeszcze coś takiego
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Very nice Mirek : D It was just what I was looking for, thanks a lot!!!Witaj
Mam jeszcze coś takiego
Pozdrawiam Mirek
Hi David, First I apologise for not answering you sooner, a lot on my mind. Yes my kit came with ready made sails, I didn’t use them though. My kit was quite an old one, better and more comprehensive than the newer ones that don't have the brass sheet as well as many other things etc, I think that they are now made to cost less to produce so I wouldn’t know about the sails being in the current kits you would need to check.Ken i am thinking of building this ship. can you tell me if sails came with the kit.
thanks
Hi Grant, I'm pleased that you enjoyed my Vespucci log and thanks very much for your very kind and complimentry comments.Good morning Ken. I just been through your log. I started “ liking” your work and decided that rather you receive a hundred likes I would comment here. Great log BTW. Beautiful and well made Amerigo Vespucci. Congratulations.
Hello, excuse me, by way of chronicles, Vespucci has never had the white workWitaj
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Hi GaryKen
I picked up a second hand kit of the Amerigo Vespucci, 1:84 Panart. The previous owner had just started planking the sides (3 planks on one side). I am in the process of backing up his build to follow along with your build. I am missing sheets 3 & 4 of the instructions. Any chance you may have a picture of those sheets? I've really admired your build and hope I can come close to your example.
Thank you
Gary
Hello Ken! and Hello SOS modelers! Your hull cladding is WOW! It turns out to be a very beautiful and very neatly made model! with best wishes Egor!Hello, This build is moving along quite quickly and it's really starting to take shape. I have recently added the upper decks and planked them. Around the upper edge of the hull will be metal plating, it's very hard brass/copper strips and will not be forgiving like wood so now was the time to ensure that the top of the hull was perfectly level and as per plan.
I planked the upper decks the same as the waist deck, I kept it simple because I just couldn't find the enthusiasm using the supplied wood to spend a lot of time on it, the colour really is awful. I sealed, sanded and varnished it when done.
I was hoping that the amount of stuff on the decks would detract from noticing the colour/texture and that I would be able come to terms with it, but after coming back to it the next day I knew that I would never be happy and in years to come I'd regret it being done like this and just leaving it, so I've decided to bite the bullet and do something about it, however drastic. One good thing about wooden models is that you can re-make anything if you've a mind to, it just takes time. I'm not sure exactly what I'm going to do yet, I'll have a think, so watch this space.
ken
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Hello again Ken! And Hello modelers, SOS readers! Question about the metal parts of the sides. You made them yourself: rivets, round portholes! Or was it like that in the set of parts? I really liked how it looked on the model, WOW!Hi, Thanks for the many likes on my build.
I’m making good progress on the hull at the moment and all is going along quite well. I’ve not been keeping the log exactly up to date but here is a catch up.
I’ve put the capping on the edge of the decks, the instructions suggested the fore and aft curves should be done in small sections from the strip provided, I didn’t think that this would look too good. I had a small piece of walnut in my stash, not enough to do all of capping but if careful, enough for the curves. I made up a cardboard template first as I only had enough for one shot at it. I put the curved sections on then added strips along the straight part.
The brass platings along the upper part of the hull were then cut to shape, drilled where the portholes were needed and glued into place. I drilled holes for the riveting and used brass nails for them, I then put the wooden 2x2 strip bellow. I gave the brass a good polish to finish it off.
The two raised strips like wales were added next, these were made up of 4 x .5x 3mm walnut strips. It was quite time consuming getting the curves at the stern to sit flat, the picture of the plan shows this. The newer kits supply these wales as pre cut ply with the ports cut out, I believe that this version just does not work as they won’t curve and stay flat against the stern, most builders just leave them off and just paint the stripes on.
Ken
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It turns out that you are an Artist!Hi Jeff. Thanks for the compliment on my pictures. I don’t think that I do anything special but I do process all of them in a set sequence. Photography is a vast subject so without going into too much detail I’ll try to explain what I do.
I use quite an old Canon SLR with just the one versatile lens, a 24-105 which covers just about everything I need and I always hand hold. For my models I don’t use area focusing but am careful where I select my focus point, I then have a good idea what the depth of field will show. For my indoor shots I use 1200 or above ISO, that gives me a useable speed option, for outside 200-400 is perfect. I don’t use any in camera enhancements.
I process using only basic functions of Photoshop so I think most programs of this type would do.
- After downloading I select what it is that I want to show then crop.
- I then select IMAGE SIZE, my screen is 1600 pixels so I size to that for on screen viewing, you need more for printing.
- I select LEVELS, I set manually but auto would probably be ok. Correct levels is probably the most important process for good contrast.
- I then select CURVES, adding a slight S curve will enhance the contrast, if you’re not familiar with curves try the dodge and burn tools on a very low setting, 3 – 4% to lighten or darken where you think it’s needed.
- Check that these haven’t altered any of your colours, I find they affect my reds, use SATURATION and bring the colours back to there correct value, again if your not sure try AUTO COLOURS that would probably work.
- I then use SHARPEN. This is now a variable, it depends on the pixel size of your image, larger files for printing will need much bigger values than smaller on-screen files. The most widely used is Unsharp Mask but in Photoshop I much prefer Lens Blur, you only need two parameters and it’s easier to get right I also think that the effect is better. Don’t overdo the sharpening as it can look unnatural, I use between 1 – 1.5 pixels at a level of 100 – 150%.
- Now show off your pictures to us all.
I’ve included a couple of my local photos to give this post some colour, who doesn’t like lighthouses. These are the same lighthouse on different days.
Ken
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true story!Hi Ken,
I see another hobby which you are good at. Very nice contrast and depth in these photos.
Hi, The brass came as a sheet which you cut out, the rivets are round head brass pins and the ports were supplied, however this was an old version, the newer kits only have ply sides, and much fewer brass parts, they have saved on the cost but the newer kits are much lower quality and detailHello again Ken! And Hello modelers, SOS readers! Question about the metal parts of the sides. You made them yourself: rivets, round portholes! Or was it like that in the set of parts? I really liked how it looked on the model, WOW!
I really sympathize with you! The loss of such a loved one is a very deep wound for a person! And it doesn't matter how much time has passed. My most sincere regrets...Thank you Ken,
Unfortunately, I can no longer convey the compliments, my mother past away a few years ago, but she would have greatly appreciated these compliments from England.
Regards, Peter