Tutorial An easy introduction to making wood ornaments by Stephan Kertész (Steef66)

Make sure that the part with the 2 small guidance wheels is corectly installed. There is a difference on the top and bottom. Make sure that the part with the extra edge on the side of the spring not on the side of the elektro motor. It works in both was, but if it is in the wrong way, you can't u screw the chuck.
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You can leave the elektromotor out of it and then try to u screw again

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There are a lot of parts in the handpiece
Sometimes you need to clean it, get the dust out. Make sure to handle the ball bearing in the middle with care, the balls can get loose. Keep it together or make sure not to loose parts of it. The plastic cap to screw u screw the bur can only placed in one way. There are notches what go along the part with the tiny wheels. Fasten the elektromotor with the cable as last.
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Y.T. said:
Only by tightening spindle into a vise I was able to release the collet.

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problem solved. Now you understand why I said take an extra handset when you want a chuck for burs with another shaft.
I have even a spare lying around, because like the lion figure head I'm making now. The hand piece could get pretty hot after a hour work. I change the handpiece if I'm not want to wait and go on. Only the 2,35 mm. Chuck I have that, because I work most of the times with these burs.
 
We all know these:

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They are good and come in handy when to sand something. But for rotary carving they are also welcome. When you need to even a big piece or roughly shaping the workpiece. But they are not accurate enough for the precise work we do.
When you use them and the turning you feel a vibration and when you look close you see off-balance, it shakes a little. You can't use that when you have to be precise. It needs to be in balance, no vibrations or shaking. I decided to make my own and the sandpaper I want to be straight, no bubbles or holes. flat.

How do I make them? I will show you here.
First I take a piece of wood. Hard wood. In my case I use a piece of round nut. It can be square or whatever. You gonna shape it anyway to a round tube or cone.

example of early made small round spinning tops.

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So I have a piece of wood and an old cutter I don’t use any more.

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the cutter has a shaft of 2,35 mm. So I drill a hole in the piece of wood of 2,35 mm.

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I break the top of the cutter and sharpen the point a little.

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I didn’t drill the hole to deep, I keep about half a cm spare to hammer the last part of the bit in the piece of wood.
I put the cutter in my drill stand an in that way I keep everything in line. 2 comp. glue will make it hold in place.

push the cutter in the wood with the drill stand and take it out to do the last few mm. with the hammer.

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Clean the part and let the glue dry

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When the glue is dried you can make the top at length and put it back in the drill stand. I also put in the vice a board with sandpaper that will sand the side of the tube.
Start spinning and move the sandpaper board against it till you have made the outside straight and perfect round.

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Then when it is dust free you can glue the sandpaper to it. I use not sandpaper but the one with linen on the back. It is stronger for this job. And for the glue I use contact adhesive, glue on both, sanding linen and wooden cone, then when the glue is dry put them together under the use of a little force.

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After that, let the glue harden and your precise sanding cone is ready

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Believe me, you gonna love this one. It is very precise in use.
 
I ordered last week an extra few handpieces for the naildrill. I like to have a few spare and the first one I bought was on his end of working( I bought this one in 2019) after all these years. The DC motor makes a lot of noise and the mechanism was also a little worn. Sometimes a cutter wouldn't fit or come out. So I cold buy a new one for just 5,60 and I bought 2 of them.
Normally they cost around the 14 Euro.
I had a bargain. But when they arrived they looked good and they where good. But I discovered they turned in the wrong way. No problem I know how to correct this, just turn the connector on the little DC motor. I discovered that this handpiece is not the new edition but the old edition. So that's why it was so cheap. The old edition has a problem with the connector of the motor. Over time the connector get lose and you need to solder them.

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In the picture you see that you have to cut out a piece of the connector and then you can solder the wires to the motor.

The new version don't have this problem.

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For the rest it is the same handpiece and still I'm happy with them for the price I paid. When the connector of the motor gives problems I will solder him, it's easy to do.

The story of this, You have to see if the turning direction is correct when you use it. Because the cutters don't work in the wrong direction. They only polish in that case (something to remember when you do the finish of your carving piece, this comes in handy !!! You can use an old cutter in the wrong way to polish the surface of the wood)
 
Steef66 said:
I ordered last week an extra few handpieces for the naildrill. I like to have a few spare and the first one I bought was on his end of working( I bought this one in 2019) after all these years. The DC motor makes a lot of noise and the mechanism was also a little worn. Sometimes a cutter wouldn't fit or come out. So I cold buy a new one for just 5,60 and I bought 2 of them.
Normally they cost around the 14 Euro.
I had a bargain. But when they arrived they looked good and they where good. But I discovered they turned in the wrong way. No problem I know how to correct this, just turn the connector on the little DC motor. I discovered that this handpiece is not the new edition but the old edition. So that's why it was so cheap. The old edition has a problem with the connector of the motor. Over time the connector get lose and you need to solder them.

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In the picture you see that you have to cut out a piece of the connector and then you can solder the wires to the motor.

The new version don't have this problem.

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For the rest it is the same handpiece and still I'm happy with them for the price I paid. When the connector of the motor gives problems I will solder him, it's easy to do.

The story of this, You have to see if the turning direction is correct when you use it. Because the cutters don't work in the wrong direction. They only polish in that case (something to remember when you do the finish of your carving piece, this comes in handy !!! You can use an old cutter in the wrong way to polish the surface of the wood)
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... as long as you are a handyman, but wait... don't you have a reverse switch R/F on your device?

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Jimsky said:
... as long as you are a handyman, but wait... don't you have a reverse switch R/F on your device?

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Yes, but if I use it and I change handpiece. I don't want to check the direction. 1 is for normal use and 2 is for reverse. If these Chinese little workers mess that up, I hate that and correct that. By the way is it hard to see how it turns. So the the reverse switch is a nice indication.
 
A little update of a bur I use and that is a good use.
7901 dental finishing bur
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The tip is having a diameter of 0,8 mm.
On Aliexpress you can find them in a package of 10 and the price is about 18 euro.

Why is it a good bur to use?
It is a finishing bur, it's small and the point is sharp.
It don't take much wood of, it is a finishing bur. You can polish with it and it takes away rough surface and marks in the wood.
It don't catch in the wood, perfect to make tiny details.

If you want to update your burs, this is a great update.
 
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