Annie Buck Chesapeake deadrise oyster / crab working boat Build Log

[Rob444]

One thing you may want to invest in is a cutting mat. Save the surface of your tables. Legend here on SOS is that a green colored cutting mat is the only "official" one but I have seen others

Tools and Misc. for Polaris build?

Hi! My Occre Polaris is on the way! I'm super excited. I ordered it with the basic tool set and the paints. I've watched over half of the build videos Occre published on YouTube. I noticed lots of little odds and ends being used that I do not have. I was wondering if anyone had specific...

shipsofscale.com

Rob

 

[Ignatius27]

Jaager said "I may well be an outlier but I would never use Basswood - it is just not crisp. If you paint and use Acrylic water base paints, there is a real probability that the water will swell an already wants to be fuzzy surface into something that looks like a freshly plowed field when viewed under magnification."

Basswood definitely has that problem. Before I paint it, I but a few coats of shellac to act as a sanding sealer. I find the that really helps.

You have a beautiful looking ship there. I am looking forward to watching its construction!

Rob

Thanks Rob! When I stain my builds with water-based stains I usually apply 1 or 2 coats of Minwood Pre-Stain. I have made some bad decisions choosing the right primer for wood when the build calls for oil-based paints. So open to suggestions for primers. Interestingly, this build calls for using water soluble wood putty to prime the hull and superstructure followed by a couple of coats of water-based white latex paint. Never encountered that before!

 

[Ignatius27]

One thing you may want to invest in is a cutting mat. Save the surface of your tables. Legend here on SOS is that a green colored cutting mat is the only "official" one but I have seen others

Tools and Misc. for Polaris build?

Hi! My Occre Polaris is on the way! I'm super excited. I ordered it with the basic tool set and the paints. I've watched over half of the build videos Occre published on YouTube. I noticed lots of little odds and ends being used that I do not have. I was wondering if anyone had specific...

shipsofscale.com

Rob

Rob - Funny you asked...I've been using a green plastic cutting mat but after 8 months of hard modeling, it got pretty cruddy. Tried to clean it off with Goo Gone to no avail. This week I got a red silicon cutting mat that will go on top of my green mat. We'll see how it works!

 

[Rob444]

Thanks Rob! When I stain my builds with water-based stains I usually apply 1 or 2 coats of Minwood Pre-Stain. I have made some bad decisions choosing the right primer for wood when the build calls for oil-based paints. So open to suggestions for primers. Interestingly, this build calls for using water soluble wood putty to prime the hull and superstructure followed by a couple of coats of water-based white latex paint. Never encountered that before!

If I stain the wood, I will definitely stain it first and let it dry well before I apply the shellac. The shellac will prevent the stain from penetrating the wood. (Which is what it does with the water based paints) So I guess you can call it a sanding sealer, or a primer. I usually use water based wood filler (Elmers) when I am doing planking etc. After it is sanded smooth I will prime it. Bryian suggest the use of an automotive sprayable primer/ filler that I will be trying. this is also apparently used extensively to smooth out 3D printed objects.

https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-249279-Automotive-11-Ounce-Filler/dp/B003CT4AM0?th=1

Bob Cleek, gives a wonderful explanation of finishing wood in this thread.

When is smooth enough smooth enough?

I am in the process of building the Bluenose which I intend to paint. I have planked the hull and am now sanding the hull and applying wood filler. During the planking process I was also sanding and using wood filler as I went along. The hull has become notably smoother I am using 150 grit...

shipsofscale.com

Rob

 

[JacquesCousteau]

Nice progress on your build!

I think I'll be reposting the build log, but in the meantime, I've attached a photo of my half hull. The planking is basswood, the wale was painted, and it was finished with linseed oil.

 

[Ignatius27]

Nice progress on your build!

I think I'll be reposting the build log, but in the meantime, I've attached a photo of my half hull. The planking is basswood, the wale was painted, and it was finished with linseed oil.
View attachment 599963

Beautiful half-hull model! I love the black plank against the black background. What did you mount the ship on? Is that painted wood or something plastic? It's also an interesting subject...is that a sloop or caravelle? If you repost your build log from MSW I would follow with interest.

 

[JacquesCousteau]

Beautiful half-hull model! I love the black plank against the black background. What did you mount the ship on? Is that painted wood or something plastic? It's also an interesting subject...is that a sloop or caravelle? If you repost your build log from MSW I would follow with interest.

Thanks! The frame is pine, the backing is mdf with a lot of sealer applied and sanded smooth before painting, and I used magnets to hold the hull in place. I believe the model is supposed to represent a generic merchant schooner from the mid-1700s.

 

[DAWarden-(Jaager)]

Jaager - May I ask what types of wood you use for hull planking, frames / bulkheads, and deck.planking? Also, any recommendations for wood stock that presents well when used in making half-hull models and their mounting boards? My preference so far has been to use water-based stains on my builds. I only use oil-based paints when the build specifically calls for it, like my recent builds of the Schuylkill River Dragon Boat and the Sea Bright Dory Lifeboat.

Ig,
I have not forgotten you. I am going to think about how to answer this for a while.

About the finish part:
First off - I advise you to get a copy of Flexner:


Second: I think that you have probably out grown following kit advice about finishing and also out grown water base acrylic paint.
You should consider going hardcore - not just solvent based pigments, but solvent based pigments from artist's oils. Let Blick or its competitors become your friends. Bob Cleek is way better for why and how. A much better and scale appropriate finish is produced with using these tools.

Dean