Armed Virginia Sloop - Lauck Street Shipyards, POF 1:32 Scale, Admiralty Style by DocBlake [COMPLETED BUILD]

I finally finished the keel. The first step was to glue the stern deadwood in place. The rosewood false keel was fitted and glued. Next I cut the rabbet by adding a bevel to the top of the keel and the bottom of the rising wood. Then the rising wood was glued in place and the notches squared. Finally came the stem and the stem deadwood. Once I finish beveling the frames, it'll be time to start framing the hull. I rubbed the keel down with mineral spirits for the photos to show what the finished parts will look like.

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DocBlake said:
Thanks!

I am playing around with the deadwood assembly for the keel. The deadwood is made up of 4 parts glued together. I plan to blacken the joints between all the parts to simulate caulking, but I also think that some of the component parts of the deadwood can be broken down further than in the kit. For instance, parts SD1 and SD2 were probably each made up of smaller parts on a real ship. I'll simulate this by scoring lines in the parts and darkening the scoring with a pencil to simulate caulking between the parts.

Here's a shot from the practicum showing the deadwood, and my proposal to alter it's appearance . What do you think?


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Sorry to take so long to reply, Dave.
Your proposals seem to fit the bill admirably!
Ted
 
Thanks, Guys!

All the full frames for the sloop have been beveled and fit in place. I laid a plank across the framing both inboard and outboard and it looks like there will be very little fairing to be done because of the pre-beveling of the frames before installation. That's a relief!

The only mistake so far: I installed frame H backwards, with the floor facing forward instead of aft. The beveling is all correct...I just got a little confused when laying out the bevel pattern. I'm not rebuilding the frame, because I'm not expecting my build to be examined by an expert in historic naval architecture.



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Thanks, Clair!
I completed the frames and treenailed every futtock. Over 800 treenails on the frames alone! I used birch toothpicks and a #57 drill for them, making them a scale 1-1/2" in diameter. Maybe slightly large, but I like the effect anyway. Each frame was then trimmed and sanded to fit the jig. The 8 filler pieces (which define the sweep ports and the scuppers were beveled and sanded to fit between the frames. You can see the paper templates glued to the most forward filler pieces. these were used to accurately sand the rather acute bevel needed to fit these parts where the bow curves the most. The others I did by hand, without using the templates provided. Next is the glue-up. Notice the compound angles that have to be formed to fit the forward cant frames



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DocBlake said:
Over 800 treenails on the frames alone!
Click to expand...
And this my friends, is where Doc strays off course and goes overboard from the kit instructions. It did not take him long. All of his posts from here forward will make my Lauck Street AVS look rather plain.

But I am more than happy with this.... wanna know why?

Because, he is my friend and I am a pirate!!! Pirate Flag

Sail on..
 
All of the frames are glued to the rising wood and the deadwood except the last two, P and Q. I had to remake the two pair of forward cant frames, because I didn't like the way they fit. They are much better now, and the fairing of the hull will be easier. I did rum into trouble with frame P, the next to the last one. Basically the kit pieces made for a set of frames that tended to "curl in" rather than line up with the upper futtocks of the frames that come before. The size of the finished frame doesn't leave enough excess wood to fair frame P into the same plane as the frames before. So I used the beveling template to make a new pair of frames, and beveled them to fit the hull curves at that station. Cutting out the futtocks and gluing them together is easy...fitting the frame in place without an accurate beveling template is hard. It took me a couple of hours to fit the new frames, but I like the end result.


The first photo shows the old frame P. It is the first one. Notice how the upper futtock is rotated inward. The second and third photos shows the new frame P before beveling. The forward edge of the frame is high compared to the frame in front, and the uppermost parts need to be shaped. The last three photos are of the final pair of frames P in position in the jig. The uppermost part flows more smoothly and the inside and outside surfaces are fair compared with the frame before. A great improvement. Once the poly is dry I'll glue this frame in place, fair the upper hull and install temporary ribbands to the frame tops. The model will be ready to come out of the jig.


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Thanks for all the "likes" guys!

Slow progress on the hawse timbers. I did finish a building cradle for the model, which will be her home in the shipyard until she'd mounted on the display stand.

I was satisfied with the fit of the first hawse timbers in bass wood so I fitted the real maple ones and glued them in place. I just finished the bass wood mockup for the second timber and fit it in place. It turned out pretty well. I feel confident in the technique I'm using to shape these complex timbers to the model, and the practice on the bass wood mockups helps a lot. Once the third timbers are mounted, the hull will be faired.

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