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Back to the Norwegian Pram.

70 % isopropyl alcohol does the trick. The building boards plank supports will not stay square to the building board, so I will add blocks to the board to hold them square. This is one of the problems I had aligning the planks on my first attempt as they kept moving.

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Started the rebuild after ungluing what I had already done, and messed up. I was surprised at the success using 70% isopropyl alcohol to remove the planking. The bottom p[anks here are already glued in place with the keel plank over them. I am wetting the garboard planks and sanding them, they fit very well on the test fit, but need a little more wetting prior to gluing. The stern section kept rising up, so I glued a popsicle stick at the end of the mother board and that secured the stern, no more moving and rising.

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Before gluing the seats in I think I will put a light gray wash on them as the wood would take on a gray tint if untreated and exposed to sunlight.
Need to get drill bits for my model drill, rudder assembly done and ready for that drill bit!. How do you like my barrel mounted on two skids attached to the hull? After all, if the Royal Navy could have its' grog, why not a couple of Norwegian fishermen?

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Soaking is almost always needed, the hair curler or soldering iron, plank bender use the water to generate steam inside to soften fibers and allow planks to bend.

The secret is to use form to help form bend off ship, and then dry with heat source. Other way is to soak and clip to ship and clamp in place and allow to air dry.
 
Best to shape or form to fit wet, then allow to dry before you try to glue. When dried in place, they hold the shape when being glued much better.

Heating with steam and then using heat to dry in place is quicker and can be done on the spot, for faster work, depends if you have equipment or time to spare.
 
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